He's Off-The Race is on

Fair enuf guv, Paul xxx gets the pint!

Heh, and Googles fucked up too so thats no use.

 

Ah well, that's your answer. One goes pop so does the other, and that's
been the bane of those systems for years.

 

Probably regulated in the same way as the bantam and many others.
Normally only one of 3 alternator windings is enabled, the other 2 get
connected via the headlight switch to boost the output when the headlight
is in use.

 

Should be fine as long as you've got a properly functioning voltage
regulator. I'd check that too TOG, IIWY.

--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\ | /`/
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`

 

Yeah, I'll do that, and see what the charge rate is. Simply haven't
had the time yet, as immediately after I'd got home on the 125, I had
to trundle down to Margate to pick up the 250 Super Dream that Jack
H's dad was selling.

But I think the voltage regulator is OK. There was no sign of anything
else going awry. I think that the dip beam filament popped, probably
with vibration as I was caning it, and then there was too much current
going to the tail light filament, and it followed suit.

It's an odd system. It's a 12v system (earlier Honda 125 singles were
all 6v) but still with direct lighting for head and tail light. I've
actually got a brand new stator for an old 6v CB125 sitting in the
garage. It's probably the same unit, because you don't need to change
alternators to generate 12v rather than 6v, do you?

The misfire is irritating. Dave Silver was advertising brand new carbs
for £69 last week, but has just flogged the last one. Honda UK wants
£250. It's an accelerator pump carb not used on any other Honda,
AFAIK. This weekend I'll check the timing, pull the carb off and have
a look, and remove, strip and clean the fuel tap and its filter. And
install an inline fuel filter. And clean the surface rust from the
inside of the tank.

 

In communiqué

Not as odd as the early Morini Camels. They were 6v *and* 12v. 12v for
the headlight and 6v for everything else. Not like that is it?

The regulator is usually voltage specific I would have thought. My
350/2C has a 12v regulator from a 350.

But then, as you know, Morini electrical systems are a little world of
their own.
--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Gilera Nordwest * 2 Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

Err, TOG, that's not how electricity works, you know (well, apparently
you don't). Given that the bulb has a (virtually) fixed resistance,
the current can only increase if the voltage does so. If the regulator
is working properly then this won't happen.

(The opposite may appear to be true, in that adding load may reduce
the current, but only when it overloads the supply, causing a voltage
drop and hence the current reduction.)

No, but they'll often need higher revs to get the required voltage,
and the overall capacity may not be sufficient. I converted my XT500
to 12v by the simple expedient of replacing the 6v reg/rec with a 12v
xener diode jobbie off a Bonneville. Worked fine, but at tickover the
lights were just a dull glow.


--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\ | /`/
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`

 

Would I pull your leg (particularly at the moment)?

http://www.motomoriniclub.nl/6-Volt-conversion.pdf
--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Gilera Nordwest * 2 Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

It actually seems a relatively sensible idea - it's really only the
lights that will benefit from being able to run at 12v, after all...

--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\ | /`/
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`

 

hahah.

 

My thoughts too.

 

Heh ... Newcastle Brown please. hic!!

 

Pff. I remember being stuck at a fucking workshop because my Landrover
wasn't allowed out, as they couldn't find a 24V (IIRC) motor for it.
Right fucking PITA that was.

I even rigged up a system to get me back (bit's of string on the wipers
to pull them across the windscreen). Weren't fucking having any of it,
were they?

I was just about to catch the train back from wherever it was, after an
5-6 hour wait, when someone realising that I was really pissed off,
"borrowed" a motor from another FFR Landy in for repair (I'd only
suggested it about 10 times).

I could curse REME, but I won't.

 

Semaphore?

 

It's full. The Beemer, Duke, 400 Four, XT600 and the 125 are all in
it[1]. The scooter and the Super Dream are down the side of the house,
under tarps. Jamie leaves his Super Dream out the front.

JackH's Dad's Super Dream's all right, actually (insofar as any 250 SD
can be). I'm going to transfer some things to Jamie's: nice new rear
shocks, maybe the new chain & sprox, certainly the top box) and then
set down to gimping it properly.

[1] Quoth a friend, on contemplating the Chateau's garage one day:
"I've seen bike shops with less stock..."

 

Probably is the same (but knowing Honda, I wouldn't bet on it),
alternators will happily output unregulated unloaded voltages of
sky-high. Ie, with inadequate load (blown headlamp) or dodgy reg, the
alt might shove out 20 volts and merrily pop everything else.
The unregulated output of a typical three phase PM 12V alternator at
~3000rpm is 55V on the GS, for example, so a nominal 6V coil will put
out 12V easily enough.

I had an illuminating experience in the dark with a Shite Old Renault,
when the elecro-mechanical regulator took a spazz and let the full
voltage out - for a brief instant everything in front of me was a
brilliant blue-white just before the headlamp bulbs went poppity-pop.

That was interesting.

I had to disconnect the alternator and drive home on battery power with
the remaining filaments.

 

That's always been a problem with the Army. The equipment is too bloody
complicated for it's own good. A radio that could be the size of a
standard walkie-talkie is stuck in a big metal housing to "protect" it.
At a cost that runs into god knows how much more than it's worth.

 

Funnily enough, I rmemeber talking to a signals squaddie about this
sort of thing. He pointed out that the first thing a radio operator
does after a long march is to shrug his back onto the ground and then
sit on it.

So kit has to be made tougher than you'd believe. It has to be
squaddie-proof.

The price doesn't matter. Having a cheap radio set is no bloody good
if it's bust. You want one that *works*, and if it doesn't, you die.
So cost is an irrelevance, almost.

 

Heh.

Just bought two spare 35/25w bulbs, and an interesting 35/35w halogen
(wow!) bulb that might shock the cicruitry into good behaviour with
its trickness.

The old bulb had definitely blown due to a voltage surge: there was
soot in it.

 

That's old.......