Hmm..

Airbag light has come on in the Voyager (105K on the clock, minor scuff
down the left hand side, S reg..).

Question - worth fixing or junk?

Phil.

 

Nige it out on ebay and buy WUN's Voyager to replace it.

 

A lot of time they only need resetting.
Might be worth disconnecting the battery for 24 hours, and while the battery
is disconnected, check the wiring connectors to the airbag. These may have
corroded a tad or come loose. Don't forget to make sure the earth is good.
Worth a try.

--
Greybeard

FLHTCUI UK-07 Mk II (Sold)
Trumpet Trophy 1200-03
Garmin Zumo 550, To get me home!

ukrm@foxtails[dot]co[dot]uk

 

Have a Google, as it might be an easy fix. In the old
3-series (E36) that we recently sold, the airbag light
coming on is a well-known problem with the wiring under
the seat for the seatbelt pretensioners [1] which starts
to corrode after 5~6 years and then upsets the system.
You could sometimes get away with just resetting the error
in the car's memory to turn the light off, otherwise
it's replacing the dodgy cable at £15 - even cheaper
if you follow the interweb instructions and remove
the connectors then solder the wires together.

A trip to a friendly dealer who can scan the car's
system would probably be your best bet.

[1] is that the right word? Sounds like a dodgy 80s band.

 

Phil Launchbury () gurgled happily, sounding much
like they were saying :

Option 3 - live with it.

Airbag light's not an MOT fail, so no issue. OTOH, it's almost certainly
iffy connections to the seatbelt pretensioners. Half an hour's furtling
should see it right.

 

If its an OBD or OBDII car you can buy a connector and plug it into
the usb port of a laptop. My mate
bought one for his Seat Ibiza from ebay for £15 and downloaded the
diagnostic software to read faults/reset faults etc.

 

I had a quick google and checked for something called the clock spring
(a part in the steering column that tends to fail on Voyagers and is a
£50 fix) but since my horn still works it can't be that..

Hmm.. I didn't think ours had pretensioners.. it may do though.

It's booked in for Monday for investigation - if it costs more than a
couple of hundred I think I'll go the 'trade in to a non-Chrysler
garage for something else' route. We don't have room to keep it and
sell it privately while driving something else and I don't particularly
want to drive it without airbags because that would give the insurance
people a perfect reason for refusing an injury claim..

Phil.

 

No - but it is a reason for an insurance personal injury claim to be
refused (given how wonderful and understanding insurance companies
are!).

I've booked it in for the garage to have an investigate. If it's going
to cost lots to fix it's going to get traded in.

Phil.

 

I doubt it will be the airbag - the major cost of
the system - as these rarely fail. The system itself is
very sensitive, understandable given the parts involved,
and will thus err on the side of caution. You can trigger
an error just by doing something silly like knocking the
connector while vacuuming under the seat.

 

Is it really, or is this just a guess? It wouldn't surprise me if it
is true, mind.

 

It's an educated guess..

Phil.

 

I can't remember when I last did that. And I have a good memory.

Although it does get a free[1] valet when it has a service..

Phil.

[1] Free as in 'paid for by the extortionate hourly rate'

 

Phil Launchbury () gurgled happily, sounding much
like they were saying :

DFC.

 

Well yes. But you'd be amazed how many people manage not to see
something the size of a Chrysler Grand Voyager bearing down on them at
high speed..

Phil.

 

Take the bulb out of the light, fuse it and replace.

Sorted.

 

It can. The clock spring carries the wiring for the horn and the airbag
(4 wires in total). Only 1 of the 2 airbag ones needs to break.

John

 

It's become largely academic - as I was driving it to work this morning
the auto box started making a horrible whining noise (full-on Des mode)
and being very slow at changing ratio - and when it does change ratio
it makes a huge clunk as it drops into gear. Also when I put my foot
down the whining noise gets a lot louder but the car doesn't accelerate
like it normally used to.

At a guess I'd say the torque converter is on its way out..
transmission fluid levels are normal (my first thought) and I can't see
any signs of obvious damage to anything in the engine bay.

Phil.

 

Remind me again of how I 'deserved' that...

D.

 

My first thought would be "Does it lurk on UKRM?"

 

<Petard mode>

It's Usenet - what I say doesn't matter remember?

</PM>

Phil