Hydraulic Clutch

My friend rides a Yamaha 600 Radion (really old bike) but she loves it to
bits, unfortunately arthritis/carpal tunnel syndrome/something else (doctors
aren't too sure what) in her wrist is causing problems with the weight of
the clutch lever. So changing gear is becoming more and more difficult.

Is there any 'modern hydraulic' clutch system, like I had on my old GPZ900R
which could be transferred to her bike reasonably simply?

Or am I stuck with the Radion clutch pulls and all hydraulic clutches push
problem?

TIA

Dave

 

I'm sure that if you're handy with metalwork you could make some
bracketry to bodge bits on from other bikes.... never really taken any
notice of how these things work. I assume the slave cylinder operates
the clutch arm on the side / top of the gearbox / crank casing?

 

No - it's usually inside the clutch housing and works on the plates
directly.

 

Ah, OK.

I'd assume there would be a way to knock up some sort of hydraulic
acutation on the cable-pull bit, though?

Or even a servo system or something....

 

how about adapting one of them hydraulic cable front brakes that they
have on some Hondas I think, maybe using that in some way


--
E-Mail Addy obet(ng)qfy(qbg)cvcrk(qbg)pbz <---Rot13 it
watch out for spam trap in header
http://www.goodtraders.com/viewfeedback.php?nick=Borg
http://www.borg.dsl.pipex.com/
Trike Power the TRUE Trinity

 

This is completly incorrect, as usual. The clutch slave cylinder is on the
opposite side of the engine from the clutch and operates a rod that passes
through the driven shaft to the clutch on the other side.
b

 

Bit of metal plate held in place by two of the clutch cover bolts and the
alternator or starter retaining bolt to form a platform inline with
actuating arm, then use a Mini clutch slave cylinder with a master cylinder
from an early[1] hydraulic clutched bike?

I saw similar done on a Ural ( Neval? ) TLS drum. The owner only had two
fingers and decided that a servo'd TLS front brake was 'better' than
bodging in a disc equipped front from a Beemer. Must have been from his POV
I guess. Mad as an angry badger.

[1] I'm probably wrong as usual, but I have a nagging thought that older
hydraulic clutched Kawas shifted more fluid ( bigger bore, same stroke )
than newer ones.

 

Indeed you are correct, on most Jap bikes. I was thinking of my Ducati
which has the arrangement I detailed.

And less of the "as usual" ;-))

 

Because you're right?

 

Apologies if you've already done this. Before attempting the rather
ambitious solution of converting to hydrualic, lube the cable and lever
pivot, and disassemble the release mechanism and inspect for parts wear
that could increase effort.

 

It does? "Modern" Ducatis have the arrangement as described by Battleax.

As do all the Aprilias I've seen.

I couldn't possibly comment.

 

Aren't they usually in the sprocket cover, operating a push rod
inside the mainshaft?

 

Not completely. This is exactly how the VRod clutch operates.

J Clark
(Whose Road King has bigger intake valves than a VTX.)

 

If the bike uses a cable:

Keep the cable well lubricated. See if you can route the cable
in a manner that reduces the number of bends and increases the radius
of any bends remaining.


If the clutch uses a rack and pinion mechanism with an external
operating
lever, you can try having the lever extended. This is the approach used
with the White Brothers Easyboy clutch for Harleys.

 

Magura sells a "pull-type" hydraulic clutch for dirtbikes, no idea if it
gives appropriate mechanical advantage for the bike in question.

bob

 

Hydraulic line on my Duke (which, OK, may not be that modern) goes to
the clutch side.

One reason why the old 900SS clutch slave cylinder seizes - it gets all
the road crap through those vented dry clutch covers people fit.

 

I *like* this ^^^^

 

A moment of idiocy. For some reason I had my Duke uppermost in my mind.

Anyway, Battleship wasn't completely correct either so PpPpPp

 

Just a minor point: check what sort of cable it is before you lob oil down
it. Some of the plastic-lined type ones don;t take kindly to oil, it sells
the liner and ends up being stiffer.

If it's a plain cable in a liner, then oiling it can work wonders. Cable
oiler is the best way, if you can find one.

 

You can also get a simple gear mechanism for cable clutches that
dramatically reduces the force needed at the lever to operate

Contact the NABD for details

--
Veggie Dave
UKRMHRC#2 BOTAFOF#08
IQ 18 FILMS http://www.iq18films.com
V&S Extreme Photography http://www.bikehouse.demon.co.uk
Extreme Racing http://www.veggie-dave.co.uk
Put Out The Lights On The Age Of Reason