Immovable disk bolts. Counseling required urgently!

So, all bar 2 of the brake disk bolts removed. Last two got the heads angle
ground off after refusing to move and knackering two allen keys beofe
finally giving up and the head destroying itself.

So left with two short stud sticking out of wheel. Not long enough to get
the stud puller over (or rather they are, but theres a bit of the wheel
getting in the way..).

So, using a dremel, I cut a slot in the top of the studs, and using mucho
heato with a brazing torch, a stubby screwdriver with a ratchet over the
end, managed to turn them all of maybe two turns.

And now the fuckers *refuse* to move any more. Ive tried tightening them a
little before going back the other way, and no joy. WD40 etc etc

FUCKFUCKFUCKFUCKFUCK!!!

Any pointers? Is it a) feasible to drill them out b) advisable c)a recipe
for disaster d) the only way to get them out.

And hows best to go about drilling them if I have to.

So thats me stressed beyond all belief. I HATE failing at simple things.
GRRRRRRRRRR

 

Have to tried kicking it, shouting at it and then taking your frustration
out on someone else? Always makes me feel better.

Then take said piece of machinery sheepishly to a local grease monkey who'll
sort it out for £10.

 

normal procedure is to drill a pilot hole in the centre of the stud,
then increase diameter until you have enough meat removed to get a
decent stud extractor in.

some caveats

a/ "centre of the stud" means centre, not off to one side or at a angle
to the axis

b/ studs are usually (in bikes) harder than whatever they are screwed
into, this makes errors particularly easy to make and expensive to fix

c/ if you use a shitty stud extractor or use it wrongly and it breaks
then you have compounded the problem and it is even worse than when you
started as the stud extractor is harder metal than the stud

d/ drill at low rpm, a good air drill is ideal, electronic will do,
main thing is it MUST be a top quality chuck with zero wandering.

e/ if I were you and where you are now I'd suggest you quit while you
are ahead and take it to your friendly local machine shop who have the
ability to guarantee drilling perfectly in line and in the centre and
taking all the meat except the threads out.... remember, you need those
threads intact and in good condition for the new bolts... shouldn't
cost more than 40 notes for two studs, may sound like a lot, until
compared to a new hub.

 

<snip bolt problem>

As suggested elsewhere you can take it to a machine shop or drill them out
yourself abd be prepared to have the old holes (If damaged) Helicoiled.


--



Robbo
Trophy 1200 1998
BotaFOF #19. E.O.S.M 2001/2002/2003/2004/2005
B.O.S.M 2003, 2004, 2005
FURSWB#1 KotL..YTC449
PM#7
..

 

Yes, try using a decent penetrating oil- WD40 is not this, it's pretty
shit really (but does smell nice). Plusgas is what you want. Heat the
fuckers red hot then drench them in plusgas then leave for a few hours
and have another go.

If that fails, earthing an arc welder somewhere on the wheel and
striking the rod on the studs (carefully) may well free them up, try to
weld a nut on top of them to get some good purchase with a socket.

If that fails then carefully centrepunch the studs (which will be
difficult with the slot and weld in the way and try to drill the fuckers
out with increasing drill sizes until you can finally retap or helicoil.

On a bench with a pillar drill at low speed under good light. If you're
using a hand drill- good luck...

 

This happened to me only a few weeks ago. In the end a friend filed
the bastard down to nothing and then hammered what was left out.

 

There's something very wrong, here ...

 

Something even more wrong here. It is not possible to file down and
then hammer out a disc retaining bolt, Nick.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Pip

It is if you use a big enough hammer.

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - "Oh Bollocks" said Pooh, having forgotten his lines.

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
SBS#39 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000

 

I work on the premise that it would be nice to be able to reuse whatever
it is I've hammered it out of.

Otherwise I wouldn't bother with the hammering.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, sweller

Oh. Well, nobody said!

Therapeutic, is hitting stuff with a BFH.

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - "Oh Bollocks" said Pooh, having forgotten his lines.

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
SBS#39 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000

 

Oh, my mistake.

 

If it's close to the disk bolt retainer so the heat is localised (and
I'm assuming the wheel is off the bike) then what's the problem?

I've never used this method myself but have seen it used er... on farm
machinery.

 

The composition of a modern motorcycle wheel.

Aha! That'll be the iron-wheeled farm machinery, right?

 

You think it might melt or distort a little?

Well, iron blocked tractor engine, yes.