Indicators

What makes the indicators flash on a Kawasaki.
All but one of the bulbs have blown and the one
good one just stays on constantly. There is a relay
type click from under the head light when I switch
it on. But it only clicks once and I can't pinpoint
the source of the clicking noise. Also apart from
general neglect what would be the cause of every
bulb on the bike being blown except one. After
checking the bulbs individually some have blown
and some have just snapped.
Cheers taz.

 

The flasher unit.

Any Kawasaki in particular?

It's the flasher unit. Typically cylindrical with three spade
connectors. Depending on age, can be bimetallic strip or super-duper
electronic one. If it hasn't got enough load on it (blown bulbs), a
bimetallic strip doesn't heat up enough to separate the contacts, and
electronic ones stop working or flash very slowly too.

General neglect is a good one, plus vibration.

 

One bulb on its own will not be enough load to make the flasher flash
basically, so the bulb remains lit constantly
If the flasher unit is of the reed relay type, it works by the current draw
heating up a bi-metalic strip (normally goes to the lights) which when hot
bends away from the power feed contact, thus breaking the circuit, thus
turning off the bulbs, cools down and makes contact again, lighting up the
bulbs.
Hence the clicking noise it makes.
If it goes faulty it makes a strange buzzing noise, sometimes though it will
do it if a bulb blows.
From what you have said, I think general neglect is your only problem.
Fit new bulbs to each of the indicators.
And once all the new bulbs are fitted see if any of them then blow when
operated, do this first without the engine running.
If everything is ok try them with the engine running,and rev it a bit.
If they do blow post again and will help you to pinpoint the problem.

 

What the Flip would cause me to get an electrical
shock from the bike. I just got hold of this bike yesterday
and every bulb except one had gone. I bought 12 new bulbs
and after fitting the head light bulb I now get a shock
when the bike is running. It gets me from every where on
the bike even through the rubber hand grips.
It is worse through the ignition key switch though.
The bike was fine until I fitted the new head light bulb.

Could it be a bad earth?

Also the battery was bone dry and buggered.
What on earth would cause this? I could except
the fact that the bike has been badly maintained
and the bulbs have failed and not replaced. The
battery looks original so that is ok (15 year old)
new battery and a full set of bulbs is ok but why now
the electric shocks?

Cheers taz.

 

I don't know why you're getting shocked, but I immediately suspected
from reading your initial post on this subject that your charging
system is putting out too much voltage, which was causing the bulbs
to burn out. Your report of the battery being boiled dry
confirms this. If you measure the battery voltage with the engine
running, you'll find it too high.

First thing, check all wiring, especially the earth connection to the
battery, and if the wiring checks out, measure the battery voltage
(after replacing the battery) and make sure the voltage regulator is
doing its job. If there are too many volts ( greater than about 14.8)
the battery will again get boiled dry in short order.

 

What happens when thebike isn't running, does anything work properly then?
If you have a multimeter is there a high resistance between the battery
earth (negative lead) and the frame?
Is there any significant resistance difference between the frame and engine?
I once had a bike that the engine earth was shot on and caused no end of
weirdo problems.
IMO SOB electrics suffer from corrosion giving high resistance contact and
borked rectifiers and regulators.

HTH
Ras
--

 

Cheers for replying guys.
I've bought a new batery, bulbs and regulator.
I found the shocking incident to be the result of a short from the
horn feed to the frame. That is now sorted. New bulbs are fitted
and all work fine. The new regulator (not brand new, off another bike)
is fitted but I'm charging the battery as I type (off the bike).
with the old battery still on the power on tick over is just
unde 12v, about 10.5 to 11.5v. When I rev the bike it goes
wappy and goes from 14 / 15v to over 20v. Could I be unlucky
and have fiited a second faulty regulator. Or could the duff battery
be the cause. I will fit the new charged battery tommorow and test
again. I will then take the regulator back to the shop for replacement.
Can regulators be tested?
Cheers taz.

 

Cheers Guys.
I have since found out that the bike has a higher
than normal Voltage supply. I'm in the process
of changeing all the nessesary parts now.
taz.

 

Just out of interest.
New bulbs a total set of 12, new batery, new horn, new horn switch,
second hand regulator (might be duff but I'll take it back) and loads of
advice given all for under 40 squids. I thought that was pritty resonable.
taz.

 

Just to update you on my shocking experience of
the Electrifying Kawasaki. Found the orriginal
regulator / rectifier to be faulty. This caused damage
to the battery and bulbs. I fitted new bulbs and then
started to get electrocuted. Found that problem to be
with the wiring loom at the front of the bike. Repaired
that and then fitted another rectifier. Battery readings
still the same when the bike was revved. 25-35v to the
battery. Another rectifier fitted, new battery fitted and
voltage is constant at about 12-14v now even when
the engine is revved. So hopefully I am a happy bunny
and will be able to tax and test the bike this week.

The bloke who sold it to me said he would make good the
cost of the parts fitted so that's nice as well.

taz.

 

Thus spake taz unto the assembled multitudes:

Gosh! I think you've found a dealer rarer than rocking-horse $hit.

Congrats on getting it sorted, anyway.

 

The bloke who sold it to me said he would make good the

It was a private sale and all the parts together only cost £34.
So it will not brake the bank account if he did not pay.
I did buy it from ebay though and he failed to mention
the electrical woe,s so I thought I would hold him to is offer
to meet the costs out of principle.
Cheers taz