It's alive! (GPz550)

I have the material, I need to have a word with a mate with a machine
shop to sort the machining of the groove. I can cut and fashion the
basic shape myself in the vice at home. In fact, I'd prefer to do this
as it helps my hand to eye coordination since my TIA.

 

So is this a bit of thick ally plate or bar that is the external
dimensions of the valve body and thick enough to take a groove, deep
enough to equal the open capacity of the original valve Lozzo?

Is this 'plate' to replace item: 16131 (bottom left here ...)
http://tinyurl.com/57slgy

Ok, and I don't mind doing it either (especially in ally). I can mill
a slot in the lathe (job on the tool post, cutter in the 3 jaw)?

All the best ..

T i m

 

It doesn't replace it, it goes between that part and the fork leg
blanking the anti-dive off but allowing free transfer of fork oil
between the two ports you can see there. Details are on the 750 Turbo
forum that Adie pointed me towards.

 

<Megasnip>

It has to be said: you know **** all.

 

No it doesn't - it's plainly obvious.

--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\ | /`/
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`

 

I realise that, it's the same system on the Turbo (although the Turbo
doesn't have air assistance - IIRC) but the anti-dive may have an impact
on the air pressure setting.

It works on mine - but, as you say, has no real effect.

 

Ok, so if it 'can work' (even if ineffectual on the road) I'll check
it the best I can but leave it alone for the moment / MOT.

I want to do the minimum on / to this bike but anything bad I see /
find I will have to at least make safe or work reasonably.

Like the rear brake system so far. The caliper itself seems fine but
the piston has a few rust pits on it. I cleaned it all, lubed it well,
fitted new pads and assuming it doesn't leak will leave it like that
for a short while, replacing the piston with a stainless one and new
seals as soon as I decide I like the bike and it all runs properly.

Similar with the rear master cylinder and brake mech in general. It
was all one corroded blob and after a bit of time in my workshop is
all starting to run more as it should again. Small parts I will
probably change anyway (if they are cheap), like seals and spring
clips etc) but hoses and rubber boots can all add up and a waste of
money if they are actually working (even if not perfect).

Once stripped, cleaned, rebuilt and working properly, it should all
function as it should. If I decide to keep it then I'll probably give
it a phase two makeover at a later date.

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. One thing I think I would like to do is fit higher and slightly
wider 'real' bars and possibly turn it into a fully naked bike.

 

snip>

It's an easy job. All you need to do is make a blanking plate that
fits between the antidive and the forks and then mark off where the
two ports are on the fork leg. Use a grinder to make a groove a couple
of mm deep so that the oil can flow from one port to the other and
then either fit the blanking plate on its own or use longer screws to
retain the anti-dive unit and sandwich the plate between the unit and
the forks as if it was an oversized gasket.

 

Where the **** did this loon come from? I've had a week away and all
of a sudden there's another idiot appeared and it's only a matter of
days before he and Des form another anti-clique.

 

Eh? TOG's been here for fucking years.

 

I haven't got a clue about Yamaha systems, I only looked into the
Kawasaki stuff because Adie had problems with hers.

The blanking plate is the easiest (and most idiot proof) way to do the
job because it eliminates everything else.

 

Cool, like I said then. ;-)

I saw a Yam today with a similar setup and it looks like they had just
re-plumbed the brakes and left the anti-dive stuff alone? If I was to
replace the hoses with a pair of stainless braided ones directly from
the master cylinder (or the splitter) I could by-pass much of the AD
stuff anyway?

So, is the AD cylinder sprung loaded in the open position so will
naturally stay open if there was no brake pressure applied (easier
than making the blanking plates for now)?

All the best ..

T i m

 

Understood. FYI then it looks like some Yamaha systems are similar
then, in design and because it seems some folk isolate the anti-dive
system. ;-)

So, wouldn't the anti-dive piston be fully open under normal operation
and if so would we have to at least match the flow rate within any
blanking plate (and follow the spec on the drawing).

http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gx2aaEoS

I think that image was for the Lozzo's 750 Turbo (assuming I've found
the right thing) and it looks different on the 550? I have 4 bolts
holding the ad unit onto the lower leg and the oil holes centrally
placed between all 4, so I would need a different pattern blank?

All the best ..

T i m

 

Which is exactly what I'll be doing to Adie's

 

Heh. I think even Des has higher standards... actually, no, it'd be
the other way round if anything.

--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\ | /`/
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`

 

I'm not sure I see the point of that solution though Lozzo.

1) You still have to make a plate.
2) You have to find some longer screws
3) You still have the a/d unit on here (weight, looks and part of the
braking circuit).

I can see why you might leave it there if there was any thought of
putting it back but that's unlikely is it?

I'm still unsure if we are talking about the exact same thing. That
diagram I referenced from the 750Turbo site had 2 mounting holes,

http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gx2aaEoS

my a/d unit has 4 mounting holes?

http://tinyurl.com/57slgy

Also (and just thinking out loud here and not trying to re-invent the
wheel), if the blanking plate groove is 11mm wide x 5mm deep that's a
csa of 55 sq mm.

*If* the hole in the fork is also 11mm diameter that is Pi r^2 so
3.142 x5.5x5.55 = 95 sq mm.

My question is how do we know what is actual capacity of the real a/d
when in it's open position? ie, it may be less than 55 sq mm ?

All the best ..

T i m

 

My view on this discussion is that Adie managed to find an answer to
the problem on the 750 within about 5 minutes of searching and if the
550 is different then until I own one and need to find a solution I
can't be bothered wasting my afternoon on it.

JFGI.

 

I don't know why or the technical reasons behind it, but there are some
clever people on the Turbo site who've done the homework for me and
designed a plate that works when fitted, all I have to do is replicate
their design and fit and the job's done.

Those who've fitted these plates say the forks still work and the
anti-dive is definitely blocked off, I'm not going to argue with them.

 

Ok, I can understand that re the design of the plate Lozzo but
continuing *our* thoughts on doing a job properly, why would you (they
/ anyone) bother to leave extra crap on there doing nothing (and
adding weight) for no technically justifiable reason?

Of course they would still 'work' and of course the anti-dive is
completely blocked off (so no one needs to argue with anyone) but I
guess *we* are assuming that with no substantifying facts (other than
'it works') the plate design is optimal?

Part of what I do is understanding what I am doing and why. I am
willing to accept something may be an ideal solution but sometimes I
like to know the science behind it. Like, I understand part of the
problem of the original design is stiction?

Anyway, as I've not had any comment whether the system on the 750Turbo
is the exact same (or even similar) to the design and hydrodynamic
function on the 550 (and it doesn't look like it is) it seems I'm on
my own?

All the best ..

T i m

 

That's good then. You could have saved yourself even more time by ..

All the best .. ;-)

T i m