[URL]http://cid-407d7ef0965d3991.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/JR50%20Suzuki[/URL]\n\nFrequently Asked Questions\n-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\-\n\nMODELS\n======\nThe Suzuki JR50 was manufactured from 1978 through to 2007.\nThe Kawasaki KDX50 of 2002-2006 was the same machine, with green plastics.\n\nThe 1978-1982 bike was effectively identical apart from stickers.\nThe 1983-1996 bike was effectively identical apart from stickers.\nThe 1997-2007 bike was effectively identical apart from stickers.\n\nThere were minor variations such as front number plate, stickers,\nor plastic tank, seat cover, fork springs or swing-arm, but each\ncluster was pretty much identical for at least 5-7 years. The vast\nmajority of parts were unchanged for the entire range and are\ninterchangeable. The basic engine was also used in the ALT50 and LT50.\n\nYour engine number is on the engine case, at the base of the barrel, front\nleft.\n\n\nTIMING\n======\n24 degrees BTDC @ 3000rpm. NGK BPR4HS - gap 0.6mm (0.025 in)\n\nPoints gap should be set to 0.3mm (0.012 in) (if an early model with points,\nof course!)\nif hard to start but will start and run HARD if clutched, you have the\ntiming wrong!\ni.e. reset the points gap - closer. You are opening too early and the\nmaximum is 0.4mm (0.16 in)\n\nIf possible, get a dial gauge and meter and ensure it opens exactly when the\nmark aligns with the notch on the cover.\nTiming light shining on the mark will show if you are out.\nIf always hard to start and everything else is spot on, replace points. If\nstill no good, replace condenser.\n\nIf all is correct, you should be able to walk up to a cold machine, flip the\nchoke on, touch NOTHING and kick it.\nIt will start first or second kick. YES, really.\n\n\nCLUTCH adjustment\n=================\nTake the clutch cover off - note engine oil dripping onto your feet.\nLoosen locknut. Run the centre screw in until it just pushes the plate (you\nwill feel it)\nYou should see the mechanism try to move. Tighten locknut.\nToo loose and it will not turn the engine over.\nToo tight and the kick-starter will not return.\n\nHINT, when you push the kick-start lever, you will see an arm rotate the\nclutch mechanism and push the clutch inward a few mm.\nThis is engaging the clutch to kick it over. If you do NOT see this\noccurring, you may have inadvertently put the outer release plate on the\nwrong way.\nThe nipples on the plate should fit into the areas on the inner plate, ie\npoint INTO the engine, not out.\n\nIdle @ 1400rpm, engages @ 2500rpm, fully locked @ 3000rpm.\nDo minor adjustments to suit your little person.\nAdjustment of the clutch is recommended so that the bike rolls freely in\ngear.\nYes, in gear you can push it and not turn the engine over. That is how it is\nmeant to work.\nThis lets the motor gain a few revs before engagement and makes the shift\ninto gear smoother.\n\nAdd oil to engine again...\nTest by starting up, letting it idle and pushing into 2nd.\nIt should NOT move off until the throttle is turned.\n\n\nCARBURETTOR\n===========\nMikuni VM12SC, float height 25mm, air screw 1-1/4 turns out\nMake sure you fit a fuel filter! They did not come with one.\nif fuel is coming out of the overflow pipe too much, you have float setting\ntoo low, e.g. 23mm instead of 25mm.\nYes it has two tiny little pilot jets, not one!. Blow out the tiny jets,\nblow out the main, blow out the other two holes.\nIf you remove the bottom of the two tiny pilot jets, it will go rather\nbetter.\nAlso, adjust the throttle cable up at the handlebars to remove any slack.\n\n\nOIL\n===\nToday's 10W/30 (SAE80W) motor oils are ideal.\nThere is a bolt in the side of the r/h case. Remove; fill until it comes out\nof the bolt hole.\n\nThe CCI injection container is for boring normal 2-stroke oil.\nFuel should be plain high-octane unleaded. NOT premixed.\nDO NOT run the JR50 on premix!\nThe bearings get fed directly via the CCI. It works, it's easy.\n\n\nLOW POWER\n=========\nClean out the exhaust - it gets blocked with crud with age.\nCompression test should be circa 100PSI.\nThere may be restrictor plates between carburettor and head.\nAlso in head to exhaust - remove them.\nGive it a new plug and fresh fuel.\nThe pilot jet is actually two. One tiny and one absolutely microscopic. One\natop the other.\nThe smaller one can safely be removed to give slightly more power.\n\n\n1st GEAR\n========\nYes, there are two gears in there.\nTransmission is 2nd-neutral-1st (down-is-second, middle is neutral,\nup-is-first)\nHowever the 1st gear selector is blanked-off normally. 1st is a very low\ngear.\nPull the right side cover off. With the cover off you can look at the shift\nlever.\nThe flat arm has a rectangular slot that is only half-width, rather than\nfull-width.\nYou'll see where the section has been blanked off.\nIt's got an oblong cut one way. Make a second oblong space the other way and\nnow you have 1st gear available.\n1st is very, very low, but will pull up mountains.