Molishing problem

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Ben, Apr 22, 2011.

  1. Ben

    Ben Guest

    I have an 8mm thick, 20mm od, 8mm id spacer that's pressed into a 20mm
    id hole. I have no access to one side of the set up but full access
    to the other. All material is aluminium alloy

    The spacer is pressed in and I need it out. It can be destroyed in
    the process but the surrounding material must be unaffected so I can
    put a new one in.

    I can't see anyway of pulling, tapping or levering it out. Thinking
    to repeatedly drill into the spacer at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock using a
    3mm drill across the width of it. As I know it's 8mm thick I can make
    sure the drill stops short of the material underneath that needs
    preserving. This should mean that the top and bottom halves then
    become loose and can just be levered out.

    Sound sensible?
     
    Ben, Apr 22, 2011
    #1
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  2. Not sure, suspect not.

    How about tapping the 8mm ID hole and then screwing a bolt into it and
    attaching a slide hammer to that to pull the spacer out.

    Alternatively get a strong piece of steel, drill three holes, one takes
    the bolt going into the tapped hole and the other two go through the
    plate with nuts underneath it. Have these two rest on some part of the
    casting (pack them out with something) and wind them through, bit by bit
    pulling the plate (and hence the bolt screwed into the spacer).
     
    stephen.packer, Apr 22, 2011
    #2
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  3. Ben

    Ben Guest

    That would involve buying a tapping kit and a slide hammer.

    Not that I need an excuse to buy tools.
    That may be molishable with stuff in the workshop. I'll have a look.
     
    Ben, Apr 22, 2011
    #3
  4. Ben

    Andy Guest

    If you feel lucky. I'd either use a dremel and cut across it in the
    positions you've suggested then collapse it and pick out the pieces or
    try tapping it and using a slide hammer as suggested by Steve. If you
    need taps email me your home address and I'll post a set when I get
    home next weekend along with a piece of stud bar to screw into it.
    Your 3rd choice is to drill it out to 10mm (or somewhere near) tap it
    M12 them screw a 12mm bolt in and jack the spacer out.
     
    Andy, Apr 22, 2011
    #4
  5. Padsaw - which is basically a half hacksaw blade in a handle. Cut slots
    in it at 3pm and 9pm, but the time of day you do it is entirely up to
    you.
     
    Grimly Curmudgeon, Apr 22, 2011
    #5
  6. Ben escribió:
    Many years ago, I'd have used an arc welder for this.
     
    Paul Carmichael, Apr 22, 2011
    #6
  7. Ben

    Colin Irvine Guest

    That would be my suggestion, but it depends on not needing to preserve
    the hole that continues in at 8mm (as it will need to be partially
    tapped in order to get the spacer fully tapped).
     
    Colin Irvine, Apr 22, 2011
    #7
  8. Ben

    Ben Guest

    It'd be ok, but I'd rather not if I can help it.
     
    Ben, Apr 22, 2011
    #8
  9. Ben

    Ben Guest

    That's pretty much what I had in mind with the drill.
    Thanks for the offer, will let you know. I'm delaying the job until
    I've sourced the replacement spacer anyway.
     
    Ben, Apr 22, 2011
    #9
  10. Ben

    Krusty Guest

    An M6 RawlBolt might do the job. But if it's not some freaky hardened
    alloy, I'd fit a suitably worn (i.e. 7.9mm) cutting disc on the dremel,
    stick it a couple of mm down the hole, cut a groove out all the way
    round, knock the top out with a chisel, rinse & repeat. Shouldn't take
    more than a few minutes if it isn't hardened.
     
    Krusty, Apr 22, 2011
    #10
  11. Ben

    Colin Irvine Guest

    What about the bottom of the well that the spacer sits in? If that
    could stand a couple of shallow holes you could drill and tap your
    spacer at 3 and 9 o'clock and then use Steve's method with a four-hole
    piece of steel.
     
    Colin Irvine, Apr 22, 2011
    #11
  12. Ben

    Lozzo Guest

    Waiting 6 hours between cuts is a bit extreme


    --
    Lozzo
    Versys 650 Inter-Continental Hyperbolistic Missile , CBR600F-W racebike
    in the making, TS250C, RD400F (somewhere)
    BMW E46 318iSE (it's a car, not one of those 2-wheeled pieces of shite
    they churn out)
     
    Lozzo, Apr 22, 2011
    #12
  13. Ben

    Ben Guest

    That sounds like a reasonable plan of attack as well.
     
    Ben, Apr 22, 2011
    #13
  14. Ben

    Ben Guest

    Nope, the material of the well can't be damaged at all. It'll weaken
    it.
     
    Ben, Apr 22, 2011
    #14
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