More for the paintisti - compounding

Righto. 1200 grit, then 1500 grit, then 2000 on the DA with on of those
mirka fabric / foam abrasive disks, all wet. Compounding with G3 Advance and
I can't get rid of some of the sanding marks. Do I go back a couple of
grades? I'm getting a very good shine, with a nice shiney sanding marks if
you see what I mean. Would it be worth swapping to regular G3 or doing
something different with Advance?

 

If you have a shine forming perhaps it is time to try metal polish
(Brasso).

 

And of course, it's been on there about 6 weeks, and it's white two pack.
Might try G6 as some of the marks it's not taking out are definately from
the 2000 on the DA.

 

Sounds odd, I've successfully polished[1] after 800 wet and dry by hand.

[1] Wet machine mop

 

Right. More pissing about has revealed that G6 struggles to take out 2000
marks for some reason. Any ideas on what's the best way to get the fucking
thing done?

 

You shouldn't have used anything rougher than 2000 at all. And ffs, leave
the DA on the shelf.

I'm getting a very good shine, with a nice shiney sanding marks if

G3 should work, no problem, but are you sure the sanding marks are from the
flatting of the paint and not the "flatting" of the primer?



--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Put the fucking DA away and use (if anything) a soft block.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19.

 

Are you using a buffer with the G3, rubbing by hand? If you're only using
your hands, you're in for a long stint.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Yeah, but there's "successful" and "successful" isn't there?

Why wet? All that does is thin the G3/G6/whatever down and reduces it's
cutting potential. Damp is fine, but wet just wastes time, money and
material.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Oooh, not a good thing to do (leaving it sitting for weeks before
flatting/polishing) as I'm sure you know.

Yeah, but your original problem was leaving it too long before starting the
final push. I reckon you're just going to have to "get on with it".

Yeah they do, but they take forever. I used to use 1200 and 1500 (I've even
flatted with 8's, but it's VERY hit and miss as to whether or not you can
get rid of sanding marks), but I went to a maximum grit of 2000 a while ago
and even use 2500 and 3000 if the job dictates. It makes the buffing a piece
of piss and the finish is wonderful. A "ledt alone" paint job which is
subsequently flatted with 1500 is REALLY going to make the G3work hard and
as you've discovered, the results aren't as good as you'd want.

I'd be tempted to find an out of the way area and go at it with 2000 (at
least) and then run the buffer again. See if it removes the 1500 flatting
marks.



--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

OK, "successful" to show standard on a Jag E-Type my company showed at a
classic car show at GMEX

Don't know tbh, that's the way I was taught to do it by many older and
wiser than me, I suspect it was to keep the mop and paint cool.

I have to say this is going back about 15 years, but working for a
restoration company meant that I got wet polishing cars many times.

 

This, TBH, is getting to be an absolute arse ache. I'm tempted to bang
another coat on the bonnet to get rid of the problem...

 

A 68-line post with two original lines in it is an arse-ache.

You need to sort your snipping as well as your compounding.

 

Yeah, but did it win?

That's the actual reason, but compounds have come on in leaps and bounds ovr
the years and ti should've cut bck to a high gloss long before it's got hot
enough to burn. I used to wet buff too, but I got totally pissed off with
having a whitle line around my bollock area

Yeah, I can well imagine. My son served his time at a company called Road
and Race Restoration specialising in Bentrly, Rollers, Healey's, Jag's
(120's 14's, 150's and "E"'s) and stuff you'll find at gatherings like "The
Goodwood Festival of Speed". We had a few concours class winners ourselves
when we were into Jags, but lately, the Jap car has taken a large slice of
our business and we've turned out a few knokout examples. As you'll know,
the end result of a re-finish is more a matter of "attitude of mind" than it
is about actual methods of doing the same job. What works for each
individual, works..

We recently did an English spec Subaru 22B for a very picky customer (as I
would be if it was mine) and he's since brought us two more of his
collection, so we're doing something right and it'll be happening again soon
when they owner of the RX-7 Cab we've just finished gets to see it.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Yeah, there's always something to get in the way of an expedient conclusion
to a job and it's a fucker, although not in the biblical sense
..

Strong daylight would/should be "your friend". It's fluorescent lamps that
show every bastard mark. Unless the colour or dark of course, then it's all
bets off. Darls show every bi of shit in a job and every flatting mark or
buffer swirl mark. Ii your position, I'be looking for a wel used mop, rather
than a newish one too, sof you're using a new mop, find an old one ASAP and
use that. You could wak away pleasanly surprised.



--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

It's a doable solution for sure and it certainly won't hurt. Scotch the ****
out of it first though. coz flaking paint is an ABSOLUTE arse ache, with a
bit of ball ache thrown in for good measure.

Best of luck anyway.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

And I believe I've just committed the same crime Pip, but my excuse is the
huge amounts of Morphine I've taken this afternoon and evening.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Typing after the pub? TBH as long as it looks alright in daylight I'll be
happy - the only thing I've sprayed before this is a tractor bonnet...

I've got a selection of mops. A couple of well hammered G-mops, one of those
lambswool jobs, and a few more G-mops coming in the post. I'm able to get 2k
marks out quite happily but now I'm finding bloody 1200 marks that I'd not
spotted during flatting. I really ought to have left more peel on the car as
a bit hides a hell of a lot of small imperfections, whereas a really flat
panel with sharp as **** reflections really does have to be bang on. I have
a feeling it's going to go along these lines for the whole car:

1) Flat with 1500 and 2000
2) Buff
3) Flat with 2000 on all the spots you can see need more work
4) Buff
5) As 3
6) If you're lucky, get some G3 out and put a decent shine on it.
7) Blow in all the holes you've burnt...

 

Timo?

 

Yep.