New Car - Electrical Problem

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by sweller, Jul 9, 2009.

  1. sweller

    SteveH Guest

    <whispers>

    I love the 'new' one. V8s are getting stupidly cheap these days, too.
     
    SteveH, Jul 9, 2009
    #21
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  2. sweller

    Lozzo Guest

    I really like the new version too.
     
    Lozzo, Jul 9, 2009
    #22
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  3. vulgarandmischevious, Jul 10, 2009
    #23
  4. sweller

    sweller Guest

    Why? It's really quite simple. It has some odd quirks (power steering
    runs off the back of the dynamo, the heater controls are vacuum operated)
    and the engine bay is a bit cramped but it's basic heavy engineering with
    no electronics to go tits up.

    Nearly two gallons of oil per change every 3000 miles is a bit pricey
    mind.
     
    sweller, Jul 10, 2009
    #24
  5. sweller

    sweller Guest

    That would be difficult as the mounting bolts go through the body and
    space is a real problem.

    Well, yes.
     
    sweller, Jul 10, 2009
    #25
  6. sweller

    sweller Guest

    sweller, Jul 10, 2009
    #26
  7. sweller

    sweller Guest

    That's the plan. I think the fuel pumps I've seen in the replacement
    parts catalogue may have caused me some confusion as they're not old
    school SU so will be polarity sensitive whereas as mine are still
    original.

    I'll check that my pumps don't have diodes, turn the battery round and
    flash the dynamo over as usual.

    I'll probably have a look at the clock too, it may have a switch.
     
    sweller, Jul 10, 2009
    #27
  8. Pah! There are old Bonnies and Beezas that use more ;-)

    Monograde oil? Or can you use multigrade in it?
     
    The Older Gentleman, Jul 10, 2009
    #28
  9. sweller

    Simon Wilson Guest

    Sounds like you got a bit of a bargain - it looks really nice - I had a
    quick google and they seem to go for silly money.
    Surprising they don't make that +ve -ve earth switchable, how hard can
    that be? But the 24V inverter seems a good idea too.
     
    Simon Wilson, Jul 10, 2009
    #29
  10. sweller

    sweller Guest

    20/50 - The XK engine even though it was of 1948 vintage was pretty
    advanced.

    I can get good quality 20/50 mineral oil at trade price (~?10 per
    gallon). Certainly better quality than anything that was knocking about
    when it was new.

    The 3.8 is deceptively fast - it wasn't even breaking sweat at 110.
     
    sweller, Jul 10, 2009
    #30
  11. sweller

    sweller Guest

    I paid £3900 - it's well specced with a full length webasto sun roof (no
    leaks either), power steering, 3.8 with manual overdrive gearbox. If it
    was a Mk2 it'd be around £12-15K

    Chassis is solid with nothing more than the odd patch, interior is good
    and clean - just 45 years of wear, veneer is a bit dull on top of the
    dash. The engine was rebuilt early 90s, everything else is clean and
    quiet.

    The fact it's still positive earth shows it hasn't been fucked about with.
     
    sweller, Jul 10, 2009
    #31
  12. sweller

    Catman Guest

    yet.....

    --
    Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21 COSOC#3
    Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
    116 Giulietta 3.0l Sprint 1.7 145 2.0 Cloverleaf 156 V6 2.5 S2
    Triumph Sprint ST 1050: It's blue, see.
    www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk
     
    Catman, Jul 10, 2009
    #32
  13. sweller

    sweller Guest

    Well, yes - there is that.
     
    sweller, Jul 10, 2009
    #33
  14. sweller

    CT Guest

    If you get one, check the oil regularly. A mate bought a V8 last year,
    just squeezing it into his budget (around £7-8k IIRC). Anyway, bowling
    down the M1 one day, not long after he'd got it, the oil light came on
    shortly followed by some nasty mechanical noises, so he pulled over.

    Apparently, once the oil light comes on, it's already too late.

    Recon engine cost him just shy of £5k I think.
     
    CT, Jul 10, 2009
    #34
  15. sweller

    Eiron Guest

    If the oil light comes on suddenly when you're at speed, then yes.
    But if it starts by flickering at idle when hot, you have a chance to try a
    simple fix such as changing the oil pump or using thicker oil and selling it.
    Which is why I need to add an oil pressure gauge to my SODucati.
    Anyone want to buy a red Italian classic?
     
    Eiron, Jul 10, 2009
    #35
  16. sweller

    Catman Guest

    Sorry, couldn't resist.

    I'm not sure if there's really a whole load of point, though?

    --
    Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21 COSOC#3
    Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
    116 Giulietta 3.0l Sprint 1.7 145 2.0 Cloverleaf 156 V6 2.5 S2
    Triumph Sprint ST 1050: It's blue, see.
    www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk
     
    Catman, Jul 10, 2009
    #36
  17. sweller

    Buzby Guest

    Sweeney bank job material.

    Very nice
     
    Buzby, Jul 10, 2009
    #37
  18. sweller

    Hog Guest

    It isn't the engine that bothers me. It is maintaining the bodywork,
    drive and suspension components and Transmission if it gives trouble.
    I love the vehicle, don't pick me up wrong, there just always seems to
    be *something* going on with SOC.
     
    Hog, Jul 10, 2009
    #38
  19. sweller

    Hog Guest

    Hog, Jul 10, 2009
    #39
  20. sweller

    TOG@Toil Guest

    Same with SOBs, really. It's not so much a matter of service
    intervals: more a process of continuous maintenance. That said, the
    400 Four is pretty much plug-and-play in between the 2000-mile oil
    changes, apart from fairly frequent chain adjustment. Silly knicker-
    elastic chains on so many Honda Fours of that era....

    And, impressively, that old 250 Super Dream of Jamie's seems to plod
    on and on and on. Hardly uses any oil, chain's quite beefy so doesn't
    need much adjustment, and that's about it. Serviced it fully the other
    day: tappets, camchain adjustment and replaced a bulb (dip beam blown)
    and a dicky connection that had blacked out the tacho illumination,
    but that was it.

    But otherwise, you're always doing *something* with SOBs. Drum brakes
    need adjusting, oil needs frequent changing, ignition timing needs
    setting, camchain adjustment is fully manual, and even tubed tyres
    seem to lose pressure faster these days.
     
    TOG@Toil, Jul 10, 2009
    #40
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