Oil Change on Yamaha WR450F

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Chilli Fiend, Jan 9, 2006.

  1. Chilli Fiend

    Chilli Fiend Guest

    Afternoon all...

    I've recently been given a WR450 for 6 months while my mate is away
    touring the globe. However, he has neglected to give me the handbook
    and I think the bike is in need of an oil change (thats what his
    Endurance computer is telling me anyway)

    My questions are:

    1. Whats the best oil to use? - I've been to 3 bike garages and they've
    all given me different answers - semi-synthetic, fully synthetic (with
    warnings) and non-synthetic - and none of them wanted to give me the
    definitive answer outwright.

    I'm only using the bike for jaunting around town and commuting (no
    off-road as insurance won't cover that!!) so no real wear and tear...

    2. How do I change the oil??
    Again, with no handbook, I have no idea where anything is...

    Any answers appreciated...

    Sean.
     
    Chilli Fiend, Jan 9, 2006
    #1
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  2. Chilli Fiend

    TOG Guest


    Use a decent synthetic oil. The engine will thank you for it,
    especially as city stop-start running is almost as stressful as
    flat-out blasting.

    It's a dry sump engine, with the oil contained in the frame. Thus there
    will be a drain plug at the bottom of the frame (look at the bottom of
    the main front frame tube). There *may* also be one at the bottom of
    the engine to drain the small amount of lube that remains in the
    crankcases (some dry sump engines have this - some don't, and I dunno
    about the 450, so double-check).

    Ask your Yamaha dealer or buy a manual to find the exact location(s).

    Drain the oil with the engine warm to hot. Drain the frame first, then
    the engine (if it has a drain plug). Refill frame with oil to mark on
    dipstick. Start and run for a couple of minutes, and then leave it for
    five more minutes. Re-check level, and top up as needed.
     
    TOG, Jan 9, 2006
    #2
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  3. Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique,
    TOG@toil.?.murray.invalid typed
    Nah mate, he wants castor oil in there, he does.

    --
    Wicked Uncle Nigel - There are few things in life more sinister than a
    public toilet with the lid closed.

    WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
    SBS#39 OMF#6 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
    Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
    Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000
     
    Wicked Uncle Nigel, Jan 9, 2006
    #3
  4. Mmmm.... gummy.
     
    Grimly Curmudgeon, Jan 9, 2006
    #4
  5. Chilli Fiend

    OH- Guest

    Now, if the oil will be changed every time the "enduro computer"
    says so, we are talking about a lot of oil. And if we are talking
    about "motorcycle oil" that is even more money.
    In these circumstances I'd recommend a semi-synth and if it
    was me I'd try one of the evil "car oils".
    OTOH, one could go the other way and use an expensive oil but
    double the number of hours between changes. The recommended
    changes in the manual is for competitive off road use.
    Considering that the bike is a loan, it might be best to go with the
    frequent changes but try to make the cost reasonable by using
    "decent" oil rather than the one a motorcycle dealer makes the
    most profit on.
     
    OH-, Jan 9, 2006
    #5
  6. Chilli Fiend

    Chilli Fiend Guest

    Thanks for all your considered responses...

    the Fear and Loathing quote was a nice touch...
     
    Chilli Fiend, Jan 10, 2006
    #6
  7. Chilli Fiend

    Chilli Fiend Guest

    Thanks for all your considered responses...

    the Fear and Loathing quote was a nice touch...
     
    Chilli Fiend, Jan 10, 2006
    #7
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