Online MC Restoration Info?

Folks,

It looks like I'll be taking a '75ish Kawasaki H1 from a friend who
has had it sitting in his garage for the past 15 years. Obviously it
doesn't run. I rode it for a block back 15 years ago and it wasn't
running too well then. I'd like to get this one running. I have a
soft spot for these, as I used one as my primary transpo back about 30
years ago. I know next to nothing about motorcycle mechanics, but I
have a couple friends who worked on these back in the day.

Anyone know of any place online that has info on restoring MCs in
general and this one in particular? I'm more interested in things
like getting rust out of gas tanks and making electrical systems work
than in cosmetic issues.

Thanks,
-Scott

 

Search the archives of this group (google groups advanced search will do
it, for example). Rusty gas tanks, carburetor cleaning, lots of
information about two-strokes, all of it in the archives.

--
Later,
John



'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.

 

Thanks John. Yes I searched the archives first and found some stuff.
That's how I knew this would be a good place to ask the question. I'm
just thinking it would be good to find a place that goes through some
of this stuff at a more step-by-step level, if such a cyber-place
exists.

Thanks again,
-Scott

 

Scott,
Check out Kreem tank repair and liner kits. When done correctly, it
really works. We sell a lot of Kreem to riders of older atvs, so we
keep it in stock.

*note* : Do not rush the curing time. If it is cool weather,
let it cure for 24 hours before using. It will cause problems if you
rush it.
I use pea gravel to gently agitate the rust off the inside of the
tank. (don't want to dent the tank)

for Kreem product information, see:
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/KR004.html

see also:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/5896/Fueltank.htm

http://www.650central.com/carb.htm

http://www.coolretrobikes.com/BikeCare.htm

Jim Cook
Smackover Racing
Gas Gas DE300
Team LAGNAF
www.smackovermotorsports.com
Once you're Over the Hill, You just pick up Speed!

 

Thanks guys. This is all very helpful. Feel free to keep the links
coming.

-Scott

 

Well, step-by-step instructions for tank cleaning/derusting have been
posted here before, as well as substantial discussions about the
relative merits of Kreem or POR-15's tank coating product. You can look
those up here also.
Either product, so far as I know, will work if you do the job right.
Either one, so far as I know, will turn your fuel tank into an unholy
nightmare if you fsck the job up. Follow instructions exactly, allow
plenty of time for drying and curing between steps, and you'll do fine.

As for electrical systems, here's an article (specifically written for
90-97 VFR750) that explains the basics:
http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/rr-maintenance.htm
The upshot there is that you want clean connectors, good grounds, and as
few connectors in the circuit as possible.

Carburetor cleaning has been done to death here. Kaybearjr aka krusty
kritter has posted on that subject lots (more-or-less the same thing
most of the time), and I'll not repeat it for fear of getting something
wrong.

As I recall, there's a couple of RD/RZ400 sites out there with 2-stroke
information, but I don't have URLs.

Finally, don't forget printed books. There has been much written about
2-stroke engines, and a survey of your local library and bookstore might
give you all the information that you need about how they work, care and
feeding, tuning (and how to fix botched jobs), etc.

It's easier for us to give specific answers to specific questions, so
you might do well to define a project to tackle, then ask questions that
you can't find answers to with a search or three. If you can tell us
where you've been, and what exactly your question is, it's easier for us
to help out.

Good luck with it, and don't hesitate to get back to us with more
questions.

--
Later,
John



'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.

 

Having just kremed 2 tanks I'll add, a short length of chain inside the
tank works very well to remove the flakes and crud and is a heck of a lot
easier to remove afterwards.

Tom B

 

Interesting. What do you think the best chain to use would look like?
I'm picturing 6-12 links of heavy chain where the links are about an
inch long...

-Scott McKnight

 

I used a 16" length of regular zinc plated tow grade chain I bought from a
local hardware store, can't remember the actual chain size number but the
links were approx 11/4" each. I tried bolts previously and spent the better
part of an afternoon retrieving MOST of them, to this day I have one wedged
somewhere in the recesses of my KZ tank.

Tom B

 

You didn't have a magnet?

 

sure, in fact I have 2 or 3 of them, even tried tying one to a short piece
of string and rolling it around to no avail. Trust me I tried EVERYTHING to
get that damn bolt out, drove me to drink trying

Tom B