Paging Bonwick and the StuckBitsisti

OK, so I thought I'd fit the new (used) Ducati cans I bought for the SS.

The can is a push fit into the headers, and is secured by the usual
bracket at the pillion peg end. How hard can it be?

Answer: fecking hard.

http://www.chateau.murray.dsl.pipex.com/Dukecan2.jpg shows the stub on
the replacement can.

http://www.chateau.murray.dsl.pipex.com/Dukecan1.jpg shows the current
one.

It is stuck absolutely solid. I've tried loads of Plus-Gas, heat, and
attached a serious FOAD chain wrench round the thing to try and twist it
to break the seal.

It ain't budging. Bear in mind it's been there for 10 years. The header
it goes into is some form of stainless steel - it may look manky here,
but it doesn't corrode. In fact, it's one of these:

http://tinyurl.com/38z5yu

Am I right in thinking the next stage should be the hacksaw the can off
the stub, leaving enough of the stub protruding to get a pair of vice
grips or similar on it, to pinch it smaller and hope that'll be enough
to let me pull it out?

Or any other bright ideas?

 

In communiqué
<1i59a33.1wypvxlacyh96N%>, The

Pinch it smaller and try and chisel it away from the stub in places then
lots of heat and plusgas before mole grips and pulling/twisting?

Try and cut longitudinal slots in the sawn off bit (without breaking in
to the stub naturally) from the inside with a dremel to aid pinching it
up away from the surrounding stub?

--

+-------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Gilera Nordwest Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 |
+-------------------------------------------------------------+

 

>,
says...

I'd try smacking the **** out of the inner section using a big old
hammer and cold chisel, see if you can get it to crease in on itself.
It's not like you need to save the old can.

 

On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 13:53:53 +0100,

I'd do pretty much as you've suggested by cutting it away to leave a
stub and then you can either use a dremel to slit the old can and just
pull the pieces out (1), try getting it seriously hot very fast (2)
and have another go at pulling it apart or find someone with a welding
set and ask them to put down some weld on the inside of the remaining
piece of can and when the weld cools it'll shrink the stub along with
the new weld and it should pull out easily.

I'd grind it out because I'm pretty fucking good with a die grinder.
You'll be able to see the remnants of the can go blue as the wall gets
thin and at that point grind it again at 90 degrees to the original
point, repeat until the whole lot starts to collapse.

Welding can be risky because if an animal does the job for you they
might blow a hole straight through the remains of the can and damage
the headers.

(1) Risky because you might nick the headers and **** them up if
you're not very careful.

(2) You need to heat the headers up quite a way back from the join or
the heat will go straight into the bit of can and cause that to grow
along with the header. Putting heat in fast removes this problem but
doesn't leave much time to get the stub out before it grows due to the
heat getting into it.

 

The Older Gentleman says...

Buy the headers, YKIMS.

--
Lozzo
Triumph Daytona 955i SE
Suzuki SV650 K3
Honda CBR600 F-W
Suzuki GSX-R750L
Yamaha SR250 SpazzTrakka

 

On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 13:53:53 +0100,

I'd leave the can attached pro tem, for leverage.

Place an axle stand or similar under the header socket holding the can
stub, nice and snug so it can't flop about or otherwise absorb impact.

Take a medium-to-large hammer and a matching drift (rather than a
chisel, iyswim) and hit the duff can stub damn hard, right close to
the header socket. Make a decent-sized dent in it and that will
loosed the corrosion/exhaust sealer stickum joint, and distort the can
stub enough to crack it away.

Take hold of the can and wiggle like a Morris dancer until it comes
away.

 

I'm not sure if the 2002 injected model has the same headers as my old
carb-fed one. Don't see why it shouldn't, but the fixing points at the
can ends might be different. I think the injected bike had different
cans.

Antonye???

 

It looks like they need to be replaced anyway.

 

No, the headers are fine. Like I say, they're some sort of stainless
metal. They're dirty, but there's no corrosion on 'em.

 

<snip>

Thanks, all. I haven't really got anything that'll easily pinch the
stub, and I'm running out of time, so tomorrow I'm throwing at the
dealer who's got the sort of FOAD tools I lack.

 

Ah. That's what I've been doing - playing heat on the join, and I don't
have avery powerful blowtorch.

 

(The Older Gentleman) wrote in

At the risk if providing Corfield with another feedline, you sir, are a
fucking chicken. You are duty bound to have a go and post details of the
experience here for my entertainment.

 

I don't, actually.

<Prints off posting for Xmas pressie list>

 

Doing the reverse could be easier. Heat the whole thing, then pour water
on the can.