Nor did I. -- _______ ..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (brucedotrogers a.t rochedotcom) \`\ | /`/ GSX-R1000K3 `\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10 `\|/` `
They'll go pink in the sun if they're cheap anodised. It has now it seems. Anyway, I've booked me food. -- Beav VN 750 Zed 1000 OMF# 19
If the frame is bare, (nothing attached t it, rather than stripped to bare metal is what I mean) it's cheaper to get it powder coated, and powder is more resistant to frame type knocks, so that's the way I go when I do full bikes. All the other bits (battery box, side stand, centre stand, bracketry. etc) I usually arrange to have done at the same time at around the hundred quid mark for everything. As for the rest (tank, seat unit (three pieces), fairings, front 'guard, frame fillets (them bits just below the tank) the frame accents if you want those doing (just above the footpegs) and the hugger if you've got one? Around 650 to the man in the street, 500 to you and a mint job you WON'T be ashaed to call your own. If it's not desperate and you want to talk about it, I'll be a EoSM, but I'm fucking off across to Bert Weedon on Monday for a fortnight, so it won't be easy contacting me after Sunday night. I've just rang my brother who's going to take a few pics of the B6, so when he does, I can flirt 'em across to you if you want. Just say the word. -- Beav VN 750 Zed 1000 OMF# 19
Hmm full R100RS bodywork in black with silver pinstriping. I think the transfers get laquered in. The inside of the fairings just get satin black. Same or more?
Are the pins stripes "real" painted pins stripes, or sticker type? The inside of the fairings just get satin I'd do the inner surfaces as the factory would. Gloss if they're originally gloss, matte if not. The reason they're usually matte is purely from an emissions POV. No lacquer means no VOC's released, but I think it looks crap. Same or more? Pretty much the same. The jobs aren't done on a square foot basis so much as a "number of panels" basis (to a point anyway) as it doesn't take much difference in time to prep up a small fairing and a bigger one. I got the pics of the brother, so I can send them if you want. If I had somewhere to post them, I would, but I've not and I don't know where to start doing it anyway. -- Beav VN 750 Zed 1000 OMF# 19
Hand painted I believe Thanks for the info. Can you recommend a small airbrush/compressor combo up to touching in scrapes, helmets painting etc? maybe you think the aircan type are sufficient?
Quality ones usually are, but mass produced jobs.... well I've never seen a hand painted pin stripe on anything less than a Bentley or Roller and even Roller will stick a sticker on after an accident repair iof they think they can get away with it. Actually, the aircan pressure isn't good at. Expensive and unreliable as the pressure drops from the off and they don't last close to long enough to get a job done. A good combo can be got from (of all places) Machine Mart. As for airbrushes, either single or dual action airbrushes (dual is best of course) will work, but you have more control with a dual and far less chance of spatter. Essential for fine detail work. My Olympus brush will paint a line .1mm wide, but that sort of detail isn't usually necessary. I also have an uber cheap brush I got brand new for 25 quid which is a copy of the slightly bigger Olympus which is excellent for 90% of airbrush jobs, so you don't have to spend a fortune. http://www.machine-mart-offers.co.uk/ for the airbrush, and http://www.machine-mart-offers.co.uk/ for one of their ultra quiet compressors. I've got a studio 'pressor like the one above and I paid over 500 quid fit nearly 20 years ago, so the price *may* look a bit high, but they're definitely better VFM than they were and they defy any attempt to kill 'em. You can even use them in close proximity to others without disturbing them too much, and if you use water based acrylic paints, you won't poison 'em either. -- Beav VN 750 Zed 1000 OMF# 19
Can you explain Dual Action in this context please? It only describes a certain genre of handgun to me.
Single action 'brushes have an air valve which you simply press. This dops the pressure over the paint pickup tube and sucks up the paint. That's it. Point and press. The amount of paint ejected is "controlled" by the position the internal needle is set at. It's adjustable, but not on the fly. You have to stop spraying, change the needle position, then re-start and it's a fucking ball-ache. Dual action 'brushes have a "press and pull back" knob. Press for air, and air comes out the front of the gun, but **** all else. As you pull back the lever/knobby thing, the internal needle is pulled away from the aircap and paint is metered out. Big pullback = more paint, and vice-versa. MUCH better and a dual action is less likely to spatter because you can open the needle/aircap to it's fullest and flush with a dribble of thinners without upsetting and pre-set needle position. Cleanliness is everything with airbrushing and keeping an internal mix gun clean (single action) is a fucking nightmare. -- Beav VN 750 Zed 1000 OMF# 19
