Paging the builders

Rough stone can be repaired but its a job for the experts and not
cheap , usally only done if the walls part of a listed structure

 

Simon the building or the wall hasnt got a listed status has hit

 

Is the wall supporting a lateral load (ground higher oneside than the
other)

 

and if the wall falls down, Simon will be overlooked...

 

Hire a pro, it'll be cheaper in the long run. It's not a one-man-job,
so find someone who knows more than you.

 

He wont need a headstone though

I'll get my coat .

 

The latter.

 

Yes. You can see a person standing behind the wall. Ground level the
other side is about the same height as the roof on the lean-to building
you can see on the side of the house.

 

Oh dear....

 

Wassat then? Is that that stuff that's sort of armco-like cross section?
Has to be pile-driven[1] in?

[1] paging TOG

 

Looks like a job for S W *really* K. Not DIY at all.

 

****. That makes a difference; I'd say it needs rebuilding.

So there's a difference of about 8' ?
The old rule of thumb for a gravity wall is that it shouldn't support
and active load of more than a third of its active height (basically the
difference between the ground levels). (1).

So that wall should be nearly 3 foot thick by rights...

That's going to make an awful mess when it comes down
I'd call the buttress plan a bodge; sorry.
You'd be taking a risk working under it.
There will be very little warning when/if it goes (2)

1.This rule is out of the window if there is a surcharge such as the
ground sloping up from the wall or parking bull dozers behind it etc)

2. I know of a few walls that have been bulging scarily for
years.................

 

That's the stuff, but I didn't know how long a wall it was, until now.
Cost a bit, that will. Still, it might be cheaper than an insurance
claim from a squashed passerby.

Another way - drive some girders in on end and fill in the gaps between
with concrete panels, railway sleepers, etc.

 

Should be loads of out of work brickies around IWHT .. ?

Paul.

 

Something like that, maybe a little less.

It's probably more like 2' thick.

No there's nothing extra there, but I suspect the snow/rain this winter
has helped put more load on it. At least it's completely porous.

It's hard to tell how fast it's moving - I might glue some glass bits
on some of the cracks. The wall's probably > 100 years old.

 

I guess fence posts and larch lap wouldn't cut it.

 

'Tell-tales' would be a good idea. Often fixed to buildings near sites
were blasting is going on to see if cracks are 'active'.

We used to get a lot of complaints alleging building damage from drop
forging. Strange how the houses were thought to be in danger of
collapsing, but the forge building had survived for a century right next
to the 'ommers.

Still - at least you will have 'RC' cover if it drops on a visitor.

I've just had to send a 'bon pour accord' email to have the hot water
tank at 'the chateau' replaced. Despite being fully drained down this
winter has finished it off. TBF, it has leaked for a while whenever it
was re-filled, and the joint on the plate thing at the bottom had been
resealed a couple of times. Not a good idea for water to be dripping on
to the heater connections with a tenant sitting on the bog just next to
it.


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Gabions might be an option?

http://www.weld-mesh.com/gabionstandarddesign.html

 

You need serious support then , i suggest you get a professional to
advise

Its been years since i was involved in anything like that and times
change . We had to have the soil at the back of the wall dug out ,
graded back and a large concrete L shaped structure installed to
retain the soil , had to install land drains to then backfill

 

That might not work as thw whole wall might be moving .

you need to put markers on the wall every few feet and measure back
to a fixed point you know is stable , personally i would call in a
surveyour who will have the correct kit to do the job