Paging the 'clucking futch' mechanicisti

Today, I are be mostly doing some more work on the Fazer, including changing
the clutch friction plates and fitting some heavier duty springs.

And the bloody clutch is still slipping under full throttle.

I cleaned the metal plates in petrol and roughed them up a bit with
sandpaper while they were out, to ensure they'd not glazed etc.

I soaked the new friction plates in the same oil as the engine has in it for
a couple of hours before fitting them.

The bike has a new, well oiled cable.

The clutch operating mech has been oiled, and I've checked the return spring
to ensure it offers up a reasonable amount of resistance, and it does.

The engine oil is fresh mineral based Yamaha 10w/40, as advised by the main
dealer.

Other than a hamfisted rider and / or fitting new metal plates, is there
anything else that could be causing the clutch to still slip?

TIA

 

Is it a pushrod up the middle of the clutch type mechanism?

Could be that's incorrectly adjusted, with no free play? Ditto no free
play in the cable if cable operated?

 

Aye... runs from the nearside where the operating arm is, through the
crankcases to the basket.

Just seems strange how the clutch worked fine bar slipping once when I
overfilled the bloody thing with oil just after I got it, and was then fine
once I'd dumped the excess oil out of it right up until it had the cable
changed and the oil changed for the own brand semi synth bike specific
10w/40 recommended by Halfrauds.

One other thing... it slips like buggery when you first start it up until
you've given it a decent handful, at which point it then only slips under
full throttle.

That's what makes me wonder if it needs new metal plates, as in they're
biting better once they've got some heat in them, and that the adjustment is
still fine.

Yeah, there's free play in the cable.

Cheers for the help so far. :0)

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Could be a clue?

Did you change the cable? If not, is it possible that the pushrod
actuator was adjusted up with no free play? I'd try backing that off a
tad.

 

Looking at the factory manual, no there isn't unfortunately.

Ok... all the plates seemed to slot in to the basket fairly freely when I
reassembled it, so don't think it's that to be honest.

Cheers anyway.

 

Don't think so.

I'll give that a go in the morning - got someone coming to look at it as
well, but they're aware the clutch may not be sorted.

 

You sure?

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/lumweb2/bikes/faz_ref_info/hp_engine.htm#engi
ne_clutchadjust

Dunno if this is the same Fazer though.

 

No... it has slack at the end of it, and I have to adjust it up to get it to
operate the clutch.

 

Sorry, I was factoring that in as part of 'cable slack', and yes, I'm being
a fucktard by looking at it like that.

Anyway, yes, I'm going to do as it says on the link you've given in the
morning and see if that makes a difference.

The main reason I'm sceptical of it doing any good, is because the clutch
was slipping in exactly the same way on the original friction plates /
springs, as it is now, and as I said, it only did this after it had that
semi synth oil in it.

 

Used to have this a lot on old British bikes, years ago.
When you put the new clutch plates in the basket, was there any "troughs" in
the basket contact edges? I mean, look _very_ carefully where the little
metal spigots of the driven plates nest with the edge of the basket faces.
If there is the slights hint of a burr or dent you _will_ get clutch slip.
We used to carefully file the clutch basket mating surfaces to smooth out
the notches.
I doubt the Synth oil will have much effect on causing slip. It's most
certainly a mechanical issue.

Good luck.

--
Greybeard

FLHR -03 UK (95 cu-in Stg 2. Big Boy 2!)

Garmin Zumo 550, To get me home!

ukrm@foxtails[dot]co[dot]uk

 

Ok... I'll strip the bloody thing back down in the morning if there's no joy
when I check the adjustment on the pushrod actuator arm.

Whilst you're here, you didn't try and call me on Friday by chance, did you?

 

You bought cheap pattern plates and springs instead of OE.

 

Oh ffs... EBC ones.

Heavy duty springs, mind.

Surely they'd give *some* improvement over a fucked OE clutch, and not act
exactly the same?

 

Heh. How did I guess? ))

Errrmmmm... the short answer is:

No.

(Bear in mind the T'Cat and FZR600 engines had marginal clutches anyway)

I tried fitting HD springs to a slightly worn clutch once. Made no
difference.

Start again with OE kit.

 

Are you suggesting I'm a cheapskate, Mr Murray?

Ok... the thing is, the OE plates weren't completely fucked when I removed
them, and it still acted like this.

Hmmm... once *all* other avenues have been explored tomorrow and there's no
improvement, then yes.

That, or I'll lob it at the local friendly bike shop this week and let them
sort it out.

 

Right... that does it.

<grabs torch and some spanners>

I may be some time. ;-)

 

Crap in the carbs.

 

And soak the friction plates overnight at least.

I had a shit load of slip with the VN when I "re-lined" the clutch. A
removal of the plates and an overnight soak and it's never slipped since.

Coincidence? Possibly, but .....

--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Sorted. :-D

The pushrod actuator arm was out of adjustment, after all that - needs
winding in a nats cock more in the morning to be spot on, but other than
that it's now all good.

Still... it's only cost me... hmmm... £85 in clutch bits and extra oil, to
find out all I needed to do was adjust that. ;-)

On a lighter note, as is the way with Fazers, the camchain had been a little
rattly for the first minute or so on a cold start up of late.

The camchain tensioner is a known weakness on these, and Yamaha wanted £100
or thereabouts for a new one.

So I took a chance on a secondhand one and fitted it earlier, and voila, no
camchain rattle from cold. :-D

 

I tried that, but all it did was make it run lumpy.