I've just been and started the race bike after about a month of not starting it. It was a bitch to get started and once it fired into life it was popping through the exhaust. Not popping like you get on overrun with a race can but proper hollow popping [1]. It's had regular oil changes since I got it but pretty much nothing else. It's always run fine but at my last race it was popping quite a bit as I rolled through the paddock at the end of a race. It also sounded like it was only running on three cylinders when it first started just but seemed OK after a few minutes. I'm hoping to sell it soon so where should I start looking? Plugs, leads? Could the petrol have gone off a bit, although that wouldn't explain the problem at the track? [1] That probably makes no sense at all -- Daz GSXR1000K2 - Fun Fazer600 - Purpose CBR600 - Racer MRO#26 | FOT#115 | FOF#48 | two#41 http://www.highsideuk.com ukrm at btopenworld dot com
Plugs would be the first place I'd look. Petrol should last a good 6 months before it start to go off.
Not much Difficult one. First place to start is plugs, and then carbs. It won't be the petrol. Our bike became much harder to start at the last race, and I suspect that that plugs are on their way out.
You and mups have said exactly what I thought so at least I'll be starting in the right direction. No idea where I'll end up though! Ta. -- Daz GSXR1000K2 - Fun Fazer600 - Purpose CBR600 - Racer MRO#26 | FOT#115 | FOF#48 | two#41 http://www.highsideuk.com ukrm at btopenworld dot com
I've just been and started the race bike after about a month of not <Snip rest> Prolly a sticky valve thats cleared itself after not being used for a while. If it runs fine after this episode and continues to run OK then don't worry -- - - Robbo 1500GL 1988 Goldwing (Rebuild in process) BotaFOF #19 E.O.S.M 2001/2002/2003 B.O.S.M 2003 FURSWB#1 KotL YTC449 PM#7 \= /= \= / /= \ \= / /= \\\' , / // \\\//, / //, \_-//' / / /<, \ /// <//` / >> \\\`__/ /,)-^>> _\` \\\ (/ \\ //\\ // _//\\\\ (( ((
eh? Would you care to explain this? Are you suggesting that a valve stayed 'stuck' shut despite a fucking cam lobe whizzing round and clouting it many times a second? Or perhaps that it stayed stuck open, and somehow missed the piston that accelerated towards it at a significant number of metres per second? Either you know bugger all about engines, or you can't use the english language. Or both.
mups wibbled incoherently... The fuel in my CB had been sitting there for at least 5 months. I fitted a replacement engine, and the bike fired up on the 2nd kick. I ran the bike until it was emptied of fuel with no problems. -- Lozzo ZZR1100D, GPZ500S, CBCBCB750RSRSRS BOTAFOT#57/70a, BOTAFOF#57, two#49, MIB#22, TCP#7, BONY#9, ANORAK#9, DIAABTCOD#14, UKRMT5BB, IBW#013, MIRTTH#15a/16, BotToS#8, GP#2, SBS#10, SH#3, DFV#14, KoBV#3. Url for ukrm newbies : http://www.ukrm.net/faq/ukrmscbt.html www.mjkleathers.com
Champ wibbled incoherently... You might like to know that some valves do stick just slightly in their guides, causing a lack of compression, without pistons hitting them. However, you do usually get some warning signs, such as a sound like a badly adjusted tappet, and loss of performance. -- Lozzo ZZR1100D, GPZ500S, CBCBCB750RSRSRS BOTAFOT#57/70a, BOTAFOF#57, two#49, MIB#22, TCP#7, BONY#9, ANORAK#9, DIAABTCOD#14, UKRMT5BB, IBW#013, MIRTTH#15a/16, BotToS#8, GP#2, SBS#10, SH#3, DFV#14, KoBV#3. Url for ukrm newbies : http://www.ukrm.net/faq/ukrmscbt.html www.mjkleathers.com
In the good ol' days (TM) possibly - but these days I've had petrol start to go shitty in a couple of weeks -- Veggie Dave UKRMHRC#2 BOTAFOF#08 IQ 18 FILMS http://www.iq18films.com V&S Extreme Photography http://www.bikehouse.demon.co.uk Extreme Racing http://www.veggie-dave.co.uk Put Out The Lights On The Age Of Reason
He may have been referring to the float valve in the carb? -- Veggie Dave UKRMHRC#2 BOTAFOF#08 IQ 18 FILMS http://www.iq18films.com V&S Extreme Photography http://www.bikehouse.demon.co.uk Extreme Racing http://www.veggie-dave.co.uk Put Out The Lights On The Age Of Reason
MOREBOLLOXPROBABLY: EEErrmmm. Well sometimes, just sometimes mind ewe you just might get a bit of rust or summit on the valve face stopping the valve from closing to form a 100% gas tight joint. But as this is probably only experienced on side valve mowers it has no significance to this conversation whatsoeverlike. OBNOTBOLLOX: Check the plugs, and make sure the exhaust isn't blowing or leaking air. Also make sure you han't blown any vacuum takoff plugs out from the carbs or inlets. That's a favourite... -- SimonB - South Wales. BOF#32 ******************************* Triumph Sprint ST, ZXR750L2 Wazimbaki. Kawasaki Z1R For Sale *******************************
What he says. In your case, however, I'd start at the plugs. 90% of the time misfires are ignition related.
Oooh, good point. <vaguely related> I had a VW camper that wouldn't idle (ran OK under load though) after a bit of enthusiastic air line action. Found the tiny little airway blanking plate that had been blown off. But only after after much painstaking hunting in the engine compartment.
I thought the general thing was three months. When I was at Marina & Owen's, he was trying to get a bike started that had three-ish old month petrol in it and wouldn't go. One fresh tank later and off it went. Also gives you an excuse to get water pistols, fill them and then shoot the barbecue.
Depends on where the petrol is bought from. supermarket stations get the older stuff (they have a higher turnover, so it's not going off in the pumps as much as a village BP station would) so that will go off quicker. (this was true a couple of years ago, may not be now.)
