Paging the metallugists

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Eddie, Sep 8, 2008.

  1. Eddie

    Eddie Guest

    Eddie, Sep 8, 2008
    #1
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  2. Eddie

    DR Guest

    I actually know a serious expert in the field, to the point he has
    alloys named for him. Unfortunately he's out of the country at the
    moment, so I can't ask him.
     
    DR, Sep 8, 2008
    #2
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  3. Eddie

    Krusty Guest

    Thin stuff - it won't crack if you bend it once. If it's drilled &
    bolted to mount it, use rubber grommets.

    --
    Krusty
    www.MuddyStuff.co.uk
    Off-Road Classifieds

    '02 MV Senna '03 Tiger 955i '96 Tiger '79 Fantic Hiro 250
     
    Krusty, Sep 8, 2008
    #3
  4. Eddie

    Eddie Guest

    I don't think I need a serious expert. One of the comedy experts from
    round here will do.
     
    Eddie, Sep 8, 2008
    #4
  5. Eddie

    Eddie Guest

    Well, yes, but: how thin is thin? The last time I molished something
    from aluminium it was to make a flat bracket, so thickness wasn't really
    an issue.

    1mm? Thinner?
    It's going to be glued with some E-6000, something like this:
    http://elefantadventurebikes.com/install_guides/forks.brakes/source/reinforments.install.html
     
    Eddie, Sep 8, 2008
    #5
  6. Eddie

    Krusty Guest

    I molished some brackets to hold the RatTig's front mudguard on using
    ally flat bar from B&Q, & 90 degree bends were no problem. I'd guess
    that was 2mm.
    'This web page is not available'.

    --
    Krusty
    www.MuddyStuff.co.uk
    Off-Road Classifieds

    '02 MV Senna '03 Tiger 955i '96 Tiger '79 Fantic Hiro 250
     
    Krusty, Sep 9, 2008
    #6
  7. Eddie

    geoff Guest

    In message
    Dr Mazac ?
     
    geoff, Sep 9, 2008
    #7
  8. Eddie

    Eddie Guest

    2mm? Blimey.
    Did you stick the URL back together?
     
    Eddie, Sep 9, 2008
    #8
  9. He couldn't. He'd run out of E-6000
     
    The Older Gentleman, Sep 9, 2008
    #9
  10. Eddie

    Krusty Guest

    It didn't need sticking back together in XanaNews. Just refreshed the
    error page & it's working now. Looks like a lot of grief just for a bit
    of reinforcement.

    If it's not visible, I'd just squish a bit of that aluminium body
    repair mesh onto the offending piece & glue it.

    --
    Krusty
    www.MuddyStuff.co.uk
    Off-Road Classifieds

    '02 MV Senna '03 Tiger 955i '96 Tiger '79 Fantic Hiro 250
     
    Krusty, Sep 9, 2008
    #10
  11. Eddie

    Eddie Guest

    Hmmm, that might work. But this is a known weak-point of the Elefant's
    mudguard design (mine have snapped and been "professionally" repaired
    once already), so I'd rather go a bit over the top and make sure it
    stays fixed.
     
    Eddie, Sep 9, 2008
    #11
  12. Eddie

    zymurgy Guest

    Heh. I was going to comment, but I couldn't really be arsed. I thought
    that Pip, WUN or Andy would be along shortly.

    P.
     
    zymurgy, Sep 9, 2008
    #12
  13. Is this vibration-caused damage? Thin ally sheet won't resist that for
    long. If it's impact damage, then worth a go.

    --
    Dave
    GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

    "It's a moron working with power tools.
    How much more suspenseful can you get?"
    - House
     
    Grimly Curmudgeon, Sep 9, 2008
    #13
  14. Eddie

    Eddie Guest

    I think, strictly-speaking, it's "Italian-design-caused damage". The
    original moulding isn't really strong enough for the weight it has to
    carry; once it's snapped, the only way to make an effective repair is to
    reinforce it.

    Looking at the diagram here:
    http://www.oemmotorparts.com/oem5.a...EPH-1&O=BODY&F=CA-ELEPH-1_CA&L2=CA-ELEPH-1_CA

    I'm reinforcing the "mudguard holder" (part 26 and 27) where it attaches
    to the "front mudguard" (part 25) and the front fork (not on this
    diagram, but it's where bolts 29 attach.

    Someone suggested that I tape all the pieces together, use them to make
    a mould, then make myself my own glass or carbon fibre replica, but
    given the unmitigated disaster that was my one and only experiment with
    glass fibre, I don't think I'll be bothering...
     
    Eddie, Sep 9, 2008
    #14
  15. Ah, it's a vertical support for the mudguard. If the mudguard doesn't
    bolt on anywhere else, I suspect vibration may have played a part in the
    failure. Do bolts 30 and 33 go through a lug on the fork leg, or are
    they just to join the upright support with the mudguard?

    Iiwm, I'd look at glassing up the inside with a couple of layers.
    --
    Dave
    GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

    "It's a moron working with power tools.
    How much more suspenseful can you get?"
    - House
     
    Grimly Curmudgeon, Sep 9, 2008
    #15
  16. Eddie

    Eddie Guest

    It's got USD forks, so they just bolt to the mudguard. I'm reinforcing
    the mudguard, too.
    *shudder*
     
    Eddie, Sep 9, 2008
    #16
  17. Eddie

    Pip Guest

    Bit of bent ally bracketry might well be the way to go, then.
    IME, glassfibre repairs around bolt holes are rarely successful,
    long-term. Damned stuff don't stick to bike plastics, for a start.

    Quick and dirty answer is glassfibre mat and plenty of resin, and
    embed expanded mesh in it - and a washer round the hole to spread the
    load would work for a year or two. Unless finished well, would look
    like what it is, though - and be a bastard to clean down round there
    too, so there's always be clag hanging around it making it look even
    worse.
     
    Pip, Sep 9, 2008
    #17
  18. Eddie

    Pip Guest

    <narrows eyes, readies bat>
     
    Pip, Sep 9, 2008
    #18
  19. Eddie

    Pip Guest

    IANAM, but I've bodged ally plates into stuff before.

    The thickness (thinness, actually) shown here is outside my
    experience: looks like the sort of stuff you can cut with scissors,
    FFS. I have a remnant of a chunk that was 2mx0.5m before Loz and I
    started to use chunks of it, but that's 5.5mm thick. The thinnest
    ally I've used recently is ~2.5mm thick and that isn't what I would
    call strong.

    I've bent the 5.5mm stuff through 90deg, quite easily in a vice with a
    nylon hammer - made some rather nice replacement fridge door handles,
    as it happens. The thicker the material, the larger the radius of the
    bend required: you can't really get a square inside edge in a plate
    like that with a hammer and vice and the outside of the bend distorts
    at the edges, curling up a bit like a BR sandwich.

    If you bend thin stuff with pliers, don't try to bend it right over
    the nose of the pliers - start the bend where you want it, then shift
    your grip back from the line 0.5mm or so and lever it round. This
    avoids stretching the ally in the crease, which thins it and leads to
    cracking. Clamping in a vice and gently rounding it over works well.

    IWT that 1mm, bonded to the plastic like wot matey did would be good -
    reasonably strong (well, stronger than broken plastic, anyway) and
    capable of spreading the load of the mountings over a large enough
    area to obviate repeated breakage. It won't shape like paper, but
    with a bit of application you'll be fine. A large-diameter rubber
    mallet will persuade most stuff to bend around and they're available
    in most DIY sheds (or Screwfix) for a fiver or so.

    HTH
     
    Pip, Sep 9, 2008
    #19
  20. Eddie

    Eddie Guest

    Effing 'orrible stuff, it is.
    I reckon I can knock up the required bits of aluminium pretty quickly,
    once I've worked out what I need in terms of thickness and grade, and
    it'll make for a much neater job than spreading resin everywhere.
     
    Eddie, Sep 9, 2008
    #20
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