paging the scotchlokisti

They say the only stupid question is the one you don't ask so...

Scotchloks: I've never used them before - can you only join two wires
with each or two 'tap' wires (or more) be used in the same device with
one 'run' wire?

 

I would keep it that way.

 

They're designed for only 2 wires, but if the wire guage is small
enough, you can probable squish more in. Or you could just connect the
wires properly.

 

Just use crimps.

 

Indeed. They're not called bodgeloks for nothing.

 

Don't use scotchloks. They're a nasty bodge. Motorcycles are open to
the elements, so you're trying to keep damp and wet out of the loom as
far as possible.

Use bullet connectors, soldered for preference rather than crimped.

Cheers,

Paul.

 

I've never had any trouble with them, though granted I've never used
them in a hostile environment. What's wrong with them, apart from the
obvious that if you use too small a device, you're cutting the wire.

--
Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21 COSOC#3
Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
116 Giulietta 3.0l Sprint 1.7 145 2.0 Cloverleaf 156 V6 2.5 S2
Triumph Sprint ST 1050: It's blue, see.
www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk

 

^^^^^^^^

AAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh.

 

OK I see your point but this is under the seat of a Pan European: very
dry and well out of the elements. I'm wiring in the socket for a trailer.

 

The wire will probably be either too big or too small for the
scotchlok, so will either be loose or partly severed, the connection
is open to corrosion and the contact between the narrow scotchlok
blade and the wire is inferior to a proper joint.

 

If you use scotchloks for that you'll be "bodging in the socket for
the trailer". Seriously, they're not great on bikes, as they're
difficult to make weatherproof. At the very least, use heat shrink
sleeving.

Cheers,

Paul.

 

Well that's user error, but fair point.

Yeah, I don't use them except inside.


--
Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21 COSOC#3
Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
116 Giulietta 3.0l Sprint 1.7 145 2.0 Cloverleaf 156 V6 2.5 S2
Triumph Sprint ST 1050: It's blue, see.
www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk

 

Does anyone else hear a faint "Fizzzzzz*POP*" and small plume of smoke
in his immediate future?

 

Mr Pot, there's a Mr Kettle calling.

 

What ?

Bullets are best, followed by Lucars (blade connectors). As long as
they're covered in the/a weatherproof sheath, they don't seem to
suffer.

The bullet connectors I use are rubber covered, so the only piece
that's exposed is the back of the connector with the wire up it, not
the contact area.

http://www.jhps.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/bullet4way.jpg

You can't crimp a proper bullet (like used on old Triumphs/landrovers)
they have to be soldered.

http://www.skjagtech.co.uk/images/electrical-tools-and-consumables/bullet.gif

You can crimp the later ones.

http://www.toolstation.com/images/library/stock/webbig/16468.jpg

Paul.

 

No, it's inevitable, since they're pretty much one-size-bodges-all.

 

Bullet connectors are responsible for more failures than scotchloks. They're
(both) only any good for a quick fix until you can get the job done properly
with solder and heatshrink toobing.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

If there's *any* vibration, steer clear of scotchloks. What's that old
saying now? Ah yes, "You have been wanred"


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Well, there's a lot of classic cars and Land Rovers that would
disagree with you. As long as you don't let the magic smoke out ...

Well, yes, that's a permanent connection. So what do you suggest for a
demountable connector ?

Paul.

 

The problem isn't with the bullet-to-bullet connection, but with the
bullet-to-wire connections.