paging the scotchlokisti

No, I have at least 3 sizes around.

--
Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21 COSOC#3
Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
116 Giulietta 3.0l Sprint 1.7 145 2.0 Cloverleaf 156 V6 2.5 S2
Triumph Sprint ST 1050: It's blue, see.
www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk

 

You are truly a god amongst wiring bodgers. I bow in your presence.

 

That's *better*.

--
Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21 COSOC#3
Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
116 Giulietta 3.0l Sprint 1.7 145 2.0 Cloverleaf 156 V6 2.5 S2
Triumph Sprint ST 1050: It's blue, see.
www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk

 

He'd underlined "soldered", not "bullet".

 

Bare a cm or so of the wire to which you're making the connection.
Bare a little less than that of the wire you're connecting. Spread
apart the strands of the first wire, and spread apart the strands of
the second wire to make a fan. Push the second wire though the first
so that the wires are inter-woven. Twist the strands of the second
wire (which are now projecting beyond the first wire) to lock the
second wire in. Then twist the wires together along their lengths
(like a rope).

Because you've not broken the first wire, you'll only be able to use
heat-shrink insulation if you can detach it somewhere and feed the
insulation over. If you can, this is ideal. Otherwise, if you don't
want to make a break in the first wire, you'll have to settle for
winding a few thicknesses of insulating tape round the joint. If you
do this carefully the joint should last the lifetime of the bike, but
it is demountable if needed.

 

Fukkorf both of yer. OK, c'est un gendarme blond.

 

Yeah, I know, I had to cut n paste it out of my proportional reader
whilst I was replying.

I still don't know why he'd be aghast at a soldered joint.

But that may explain a few things, right enough ;-)

Paul.

 

Heh. You may have stumbled upon a revelationary theory there.

 

Solder fails far more often than crimped joints. And you can get crimping
tools to do that variety of bullet - it's just a different tool.

 

"Colin Irvine" wrote > Bare a cm or so of the wire to which you're making
the connection.

Then for a bit of belt-and-braces, smear witha layer of vaseline / petroleum
jelly to keep the water out

If ytou've a multipin connector up/downstream of the join, a jeweller's
screwdriver inserted from the front (connection, not wire) side in the
little slot will unlatch the spade and allow you to pull the wire and spade
out the back - or you could even get a matching pair of connectors and 4" of
suitable wire, make a T-piece to join the 2 parts of the existing loom and
run off to your trailer socket - might be more hassle, but it would Look
Professional and you can easilt restore it to original by removing said T
piece

Better yet, self-amalgamating tape, which turns into a block of rubber in
the shape you laid it on the wires - much more waterproof than insulting
tape, can still be sliced off if you need to. If it's exposed to sunlight, a
couple of wraps of black insulting tape will stop UV light degrading the
rubber, should last a hunnert years (which is the technique I was taught
many years back for joining overhead multipair telephone cables - some of my
joints up 'phone poles are still in one piece 20 years later, I see 'em when
I'm out and about)

Dave H.

 

<g> 40 years ago I was scrubbing busbars with vaseline before joining
them. I imagine modern exchanges are somewhat different.

 

I use bullets, but the important bit is the shrink tube that gets shrunk
around every damn joint. And the vaseline applied before joining.

 

Wot 'e said. The problem with soldering in a bike environment is that it
introduces a handy spot for the cable to break as it reduces the
flexibility of the cable and introduces a stress point.

I've seen the strands on soldered cables on bikes that had broken clean
through and tracing the fault was a right barsteward because the break
was inside some heat shrink tubing.

Also, the datalogger that wasn't in my car during the last trackday had
the tips of the power supply wires dipped in solder. One of the two had
all strands bar one broken right at the edge of the solder, so it
would've had a really bad contact when inside the car.

And not cheap, either.

 

They use generic petroleum jelly these days - Vaseline is too expensive.

 

Hasn't everybody?

Red, blue and yellow as a minimum - brown for the really big stuff is an
option.

 

Ahh a fellow 'bodger' Indeed all the colours of the rainbow to hand.

--
Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21 COSOC#3
Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
116 Giulietta 3.0l Sprint 1.7 145 2.0 Cloverleaf 156 V6 2.5 S2
Triumph Sprint ST 1050: It's blue, see.
www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk

 

Do they do one for 13amp mains cable?

 

Brown+

--
Catman MIB#14 SKoGA#6 TEAR#4 BOTAFOF#38 Apostle#21 COSOC#3
Tyger, Tyger Burning Bright (Remove rust to reply)
116 Giulietta 3.0l Sprint 1.7 145 2.0 Cloverleaf 156 V6 2.5 S2
Triumph Sprint ST 1050: It's blue, see.
www.cuore-sportivo.co.uk

 

Colin Irvine wrote:
the connection

BT use grease-filled ones externally. They're still a bodge though.

 

That's what I'd try to do.