Paint - waterbased in rattle cans

I've got some waterbased paint in a rattle can for my car. It looks to be a
good colour match, until I put clear on it. As soon as it's cleared it looks
a good shade or three darker than the surrounding paint, whether I'm
spraying it on from the can or dibbing in stone chips with a brush. Am I
making some beginners error or have the paint factors mixed it wrong? I've
had good results with stonechips in the past with pearl colours but this
seems to be a complete PITA...

FWIW the colour is Peugeot "Moonstone" or "Gris Iceland", which is a sort of
bluey silver pearl...

 

Most paint darkens when it's clear coated, but water based even more so and
YOU have to factor in the shade variation of all paints, because the fucking
suppliers won't.

Some paints have as many as five colour depth variations too, although they
go by the same name and I can't imagine rattle can fillers give a rat's arse
about variations either.

There's your problem. Too gay by half.
--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

I see. Any way I can get round it? I'm tempted to just stick some paint on
there and wax it, without any clear. At least that way there'll be an OK
colour match. Rust isn't really an issue as the bonnet is galvanised, but
obviously I'd like to paint to not disintegrate hilariously quickly.

Not as gay as picking second hand cars by colour.

 

The only way is to bin off the rattle cans and "get it to a man who can".
Granted it costs, but unfortunately, that's life. There's no way a rattle
can job will ever be anything other than a rattle can job and they're
PERFECT for rat-bikes, but **** all else.

Not a good idea really. The paint will fade (most clear coats have a UV
blocker in them) and look like utter shite in very short order, plus it'll
never shine, it'll just get slightly less matte and slightly more satin
looking.

Until the sun gets to it, which even over here still happens. it'll "wash
out" and look crappier everytime you can force your eyes to look at it.

Leaving out the clearcoat will result in a semi satin finish at best and a
finish that won't last beyond half past 6.

You're not a woman are you?


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Bugger that. I'm talking about very minor stone chips. Worth dibbing in but
not something I'd worry about enough to pay someone proper money to fix.

Nope. Hence buying the car because it's cheap and works rather than for the
colour...

 

That extra bit of info is quite useful thanoze. Stone chips are best dealt
with with judicious use a paint pen and DEFINITELY not a rattle can. Dab the
chips with the paint pen, then dab it with some nail varnish. Job done.

Not the most elegant solution, but it works.

You're my brother, coz they're my sentiments exactly. My next car won't be
anything but orange though


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

I bought rattle cans as it was the smallest / cheapest quantity of paint the
factors mixed. Who does paint pens other than Halfords? Last time I went in,
they wanted £10 for set of 3 (primer, colour and clear) and having had
umpteen shite cars over the years, I only want the colour...

 

That's what I've already been trying to no great avail. Sprayed or brushed,
it's the wrong colour. OTOH it seems to be the right colour when sprayed on
white paper - I suppose it could be down to me using grey primer. Should I
be using a basecoat perhaps?

 

It's been a long time since I bought a pen, but I didn't use Halfords, just
one of those little "motor car bits and bob's" shops. Actually, it's called
"Bob in" but he's never got anything on these days. "Motorworld" are usually
good for stuff like that though.

--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Most metallics/mica's/pearls usually require a particular coloured
groundcoat, but unfortunately they range from back to white with everything
in between. They rarely go directly onto primer.

Light base (usually silver) gives a brighter hue. White gives a more "like
the tin" colour, black really darkens colour down a LOT.

--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19