Pan questions (last ones)

For a while hopefully.

Which oil would you use in the final drive? EP80/90?

What engine oil would be the best for a 50k motor that has been very well
serviced. Not Police kind of well, but FSH

Any benefit with Iridium spark plugs?

It has a Dunlop sportmax rear tyre (new) & a metzeler rear (2k-3k left on
it) The front feels very slightly light, given the size & weight of the bike
i think the tyres are mismatched, it feels a bit floty over road crowns &
white lines etc. Having said that it is only very slight, but the steering
feels a bit too light in my mind.

I shoved a big screen & a wind deflector kit on it, took the topbox off. I
took it on a 100m run yesterday, it's a bloody good bike for running about
on & to & from work etc.

--


Nige,

BMW K1200S (for sale)
Range Rover Vogue
Suzuki GSX-R600 Racebike (for sale)
Honda ST1100 Pan European

 

Ta, i'll get a set.

I need to get it stripped down to give it a good coat of anti-rust all
underneath, so will have a gander at that too.

I do find the top of the screen gets in the way a bit (I'm 6' 3") i'll see
how it goes, they go 2nd hand on eBay for more than I paid for a new one



--


Nige,

BMW K1200S (for sale)
Range Rover Vogue
Suzuki GSX-R600 Racebike (for sale)
Honda ST1100 Pan European

 

Yes. Book says Hypoid Gear Oil SAE 80.

Any decent mineral or semi-synth 10W40 - has worked fine in mine for the
last 80k.

Nope. As long as it's not misfiring then any old plug is fine - book says:

* Standard: CR8EH-9 (NGK), U24FER-9 (NIPPONDENSO)
* For extended high speed riding: CR9EH-9 (NGK), U27FER-9
(NIPPONDENSO)

Stick to what the book says works for me - plugs seem to last forever
anyway.

Check the pressures. Increase the rear preload a notch and see if it's
any better. Best tyres I've ever found for the Pan are the Avon
ST45/46's.

I tried a bigger screen on mine and found it horrible so went back to the
Honda original and that suits me - I'm 6'4" and sit high enough that the
turbulence some folk get from the original screen isn't a problem.

 

What's wrong with the ones in it? Won't it start? I've changed mine
every 36k whether they need it or not.

Biggest thing that makes a difference is the air-cleaner. Fit a K&N
replacement as you can just wash them out. The standard one seems to get
bunged up and takes the edge off the power quite quickly. Put a new one
in and it feels like 20bhp more.

Not a lot of stripping needed to do the swing-arm - that's the only weak
spot rust-wise. You only need to take off the left pannier to set the
rear pre-load and tyre pressures can be done with the bike in one piece
too. I'd check them first - I always use 36 front 42 rear and it's fine.

Good point.

 

Simon Atkinson wrote:

I don't know when they where last changed, the service book is up to date,
but was stood for six years, hence the condition i suppose. Any bike stood
that long needsa good service. It starts fine, even though there is a knack
to warm starts

I have a new air filter, rather expensive to say the least

I will, i have some ACF 50, i'll blather the swingarm with that

I'm still amazed at the condition of it for the money

--


Nige,

BMW K1200S (for sale)
Range Rover Vogue
Suzuki GSX-R600 Racebike (for sale)
Honda ST1100 Pan European

 

Worth a set of plugs then - mine just starts, hot or cold, when I thumb
the button. No throttle needed - choke when cold, nothing when hot.

That's why a K&N is better - apart from it being better anyway by design.

Knock yourself out kid.

How much was it?

 

£1500 FSH, 49k, no rust or damage anywhere. White mind you, but bloody
clean. No holes in the fairing or owt. It wasn't a cop or otherwise bike,
privatly owned from new by one rather fastidious older chap. As i say, it
was stored for a long time. I prefer to keep mechanic things going, but the
poor old bugger couldn't ride it.

Heated grips are the next thing, genuine ones are rare to say the least, can
a set of Daytonas be fit ? There not a special size or anything?

Cheers BTW.

--


Nige,

BMW K1200S (for sale)
Range Rover Vogue
Suzuki GSX-R600 Racebike (for sale)
Honda ST1100 Pan European

 

Bog standard. I've got the most expensive of the Hein Gericke ones on
mine - been on there for 8 years and still working fine. All for about
40 quid at the time. I tried a set of Oxford ones before, and they were
knackered in under a year.

 

On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 20:18:53 +0000 (UTC), Simon Atkinson

<not much, after two pages of quoted text>

Learn to fucking snip, newbie

 

22mm bars with open ends if you need them, but it's no biggy to take
the closing disc of rubber out of a closed end set with a Stanley knife
or similar if you have bar ends fitted. I've just bought and fitted
Hein Gericke heated grips to my bike at a cost of 42-95.

If you choose carefully you will find that older Gericke ones were
actually Daytona grips rebranded but about a tenner cheaper. You can
spot them by the thin band that says "Hein Gericke All Season Grips"
wrapped around the grip at the outer edge - none of the other grips
have this and it's in the same place you'll find the Daytona branding
on their grips. They have a silver faced controller approx 30mm square
with off, start and run positions. Also, when you get them out of the
pack they have 'Daytona' embossed on the outer end.

I'd advise getting a suitable fuseholder and wiring that in because
that's the only thing missing from a Daytona kit. I wired mine into the
horn fuse on my bike because I very rarely use it, so the chances of
blowing the fuse by using both bits of equipment are very remote

 

Here's 50p - get yourself some broadband.

 

All good advice - but the 5 amp supply on the Pan (under the cowl) is
fused at 5 Amps...

 

OK, i'll go get some down the road, i'll fit them if it ever stop bloody
raining.

--


Nige,

BMW K1200S (for sale)
Range Rover Vogue
Suzuki GSX-R600 Racebike (for sale)
Honda ST1100 Pan European

 

That's pretty handy. I've run an igniton switched live cable up to the
front of the Versys to run any other electrical things I might buy.
Saves rooting around under the fusebox trying to find somewhere to
splice a cable into.