photographing bikes

On Sun, 12 Oct 2003 17:22:08 UTC, "Julie and Deb"

} hmmmm... maybe the thing I'm assuming is the light meter (a red needle in
} the LHS of the view finder) is actually just a "you haven't wound the film
} on yet, stupid!" indicator.

That's what it is. It's more like a tab than a needle, right?

} And maybe I need to go to remedial camera school..............

It may be similar to asking a MCSE to explain a ZX81 to you.

If it's an 1b, the light meter (the indicator part) would be on the
outside of the camera, to the left of the pentaprism.

} Julie (confused, but willing to give it a go. I've got a list of
} 'suggested' f/stops for most light conditions tucked in with the spare film)

As a rough guideline you set the shutter speed at 1 over the film ASA
number, so 1/125 for 100 ASA (= 21 DIN) (the film ISO number is just
these two numbers together for your average film the ASA number is the
larger of the two), or 1/500 for 400 ASA. Then you set the aperture to
f/16 or f/22 for bright outside, f/11 for slight overcast, f/8 for
cloudy. Every doubling or halving of the shutter speed is equal to
opening (going to a smaller number) or closing the aperture one stop:
1/500 @ f/8 = 1/250 @ f/11 = 1/125 @ f/16. Fortunately modern films
have quite a bit of leeway, so your exposure doesn't need to be dead
on.

--
// Rik Steenwinkel '85 R80ST Skippy bike
// Enschede '91 R100GS/PD The Great Unwashed
// Netherlands ('76 Honda CB250G Bouwpakketje)
// "Far away is only far away '90 K75C Kommutabike
// if you don't go there" '81 MZ TS250/1+LSW Badkuip

 

Someone let Rik Steenwinkel at loose on an internet
connection and the result was:

specially if using print film...lots of stuff can be corrected in the
developing process...if using transparency it helps to get it righter than
wrong