R6 Reloaded(Oil changes and Transmission surging)

Discussion in 'Texas Bikers' started by RazorX, Jul 22, 2005.

  1. RazorX

    RazorX Guest

    I just recieved my ’01 R6 back from an engine rebuild and I thought I
    might share some stuff with the community. The engine had 44,000 miles
    on it when it was taken in for the rebuild. It was running like a
    champ(not like new though lol) when it was taken in, the only reason
    it went in was because a bolt came loose and the chain shot it into
    the crank case.

    So the first thing i’d like to share with you is the importance of
    oil changes. When the engine was torn down the bearings wear all in
    good order, the cylinders virtually damage free, valve seats seating
    well. The mechanic said that if he didnt have an odometer to look at,
    he wouldnt have been able to tell it had a third of that 44k. He
    attributed that to the fact that the oil was changed ON THE MARK,
    every time. This keeps the nasty metal particals that develop from
    normal wear to a minimum. We all know this is important in any
    vehicle, but with a bike that redlines at around 16k and an oil pump
    that speeds up with the engine rpm, you want as little of that crap
    racing across the surface of your internals as possible.

    Second is a common trans problem to look out for on those uncommon
    sport bikes with the odo approaching 50k. A sloppy or hard shift into
    2nd(which is common due to the long throw and high rpm’s common at the
    time of this shift) can cause one of two very bad things to happy.
    A.) The dog teeth of the gear become slightly worn
    B.) The fork becomes slightly bent
    If either of these happen over time the dog teeth on 2nd will wear
    more and more untill it will start slipping at times of peak torque
    while under full throttle. This will seem like a sudden lose, then
    surge of power. Its important that if this starts happening you STAY
    OUT OF 2ND! The problem will only get worse till something breaks,
    bends, or just generally f@#*$ up your trans. Skip 2nd gear untill you
    can get it fixed. Generally 3 things need replacing, and here they
    are-
    1.) 2nd gear and the gear next to it(3rd?)
    The dog teeth by this point are worn on one edge along with the
    windows in the gear next to it.
    2.) The fork that slides 2nd gear
    Each time 2nd gear pops out it blasts the hell out of the fork and
    continues to bend it causing it to allow the gear to slip out
    even more frequently and things just continue to get worse.
    3.) Shift Drum
    Depending on how long the prob has been occuring, the point on the
    drum that holds the fork into place while in 2nd gear will be
    wearing down due to being continually blasted by 2nd gear popping out.
    These three parts stock shouldnt set you back much more than 200
    bucks.

    With the transmission back in order and new rings, seals, and
    gaskets the compression is back up and it responds and sounds like
    new. After 250-300 miles under 6k rpm, a dozen heat cycles, and an oil
    change i’ll be looking forward to reaming on it up to 100k miles with
    the help of frequent oil changes!
     
    RazorX, Jul 22, 2005
    #1
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  2. I think the lack of bore wear can largely be attributed to "Nikasil"
    and other cylinder bore coatings that the factories have begun to use
    in recent years. I've had more than one engine builder tell me that
    even with high-mileage engines, cylinders rarely need overboring as
    part of a rebuild any more, unless something catastrophic happened to
    gouge the bore, like a rod breaking loose or a piston breaking into
    pieces. Usually, they just remove the bore ridge at the top of the
    piston stroke that's left by the top piston ring, finish-hone the
    cylinders and install new rings.

    I've seen high-mileage engines (100,000+ miles) with treated bores
    that still looked brand new. Sometimes the factory finish honing
    marks are still visible in the Nikasil.
     
    Scott Gardner, Jul 22, 2005
    #2
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  3. RazorX

    RazorX Guest

    Yep yep, this ’01 R6 has ’ceramic’ coated cylinders, the cross-hatch
    pattern from the factory is still visible as you mentioned it may be.
    In fact over boring the cylinder will remove this coating and the
    cylinders will wear rather quickly in comparison to leaving it be.
     
    RazorX, Jul 23, 2005
    #3
  4. Since the coating is so durable, and boring out the cylinders removes
    the coating, I think that's why overbores are reserved only for cases
    where something has broken loose and scored up the cylinder walls.
    Even then, it would probably be worthwhile to have the cylinder
    re-treated after the overbore. If the cylinder walls were meant to be
    treated, there's no telling how fast they'd wear without it.

    I'm glad that your engine is still so fresh. It's got to be like
    having a brand-new engine for you.
     
    Scott Gardner, Jul 23, 2005
    #4
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