Rattle at 40

Discussion in 'Motorcycle Technical Discussion' started by Sabre, Jun 15, 2005.

  1. Sabre

    Sabre Guest

    I was riding my bike (Honda Sabre 1100) today and heard at around 40 mph in
    third and fourth gears some kind of rattling. I stopped to check it out,
    but couldn't find a single loose part. If I rev the engine while stopped,
    there is nothing making noise either...

    It probably happens at higher speeds, but I do not notice it with the wind.

    Any ideas?

    TIA,
    Sabre
     
    Sabre, Jun 15, 2005
    #1
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  2. Yes -- you need earplugs.
     
    Michael Sierchio, Jun 15, 2005
    #2
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  3. Sabre

    PQ Guest

    Try this.
    Go out on a long straight stretch with little or no traffic.
    Take it up to 40+ until you hear the rattle, pull in clutch and let engine
    drop to idle and coast for a bit.
    Rev and let clutch out go back to 40+, pull in clutch, leave in gear and
    kill engine, coast.
    Restart.Go back to 40+, pull in clutch, shift to neutral and kill engine,
    coast a bit.
    Restart, regear and your done.
    Post and let us know if and when the rattle disappeared or changed.
    PQ

    x
     
    PQ, Jun 15, 2005
    #3
  4. Sabre

    Matt Guest

    How does one clean the carbon out of the combustion chambers?
     
    Matt, Jun 15, 2005
    #4
  5. The traditional way to blast carbon out of an engine was to go out and
    ride hard for a few miles. If somebody asked why I was riding full
    throttle in 3rd gear at 100mph, I'd explain that I was "just blowing
    'er out". You can easily ride 100 mph in 3rd on a literbike.
    Nowadays there are literbikes that will go 100 in 2nd gear...

    There are commercial preparations that will loosen up carbon so it goes
    out the exhaust pipe under normal engine operation. You usually add a
    few ounces to a tank of gas and go riding. Look on the chemicals shelf
    at Walmart or Pep Boys for those chemicals. They usually contain oily
    solvents...

    Riding on a damp day when there is a lot of moisture in the air will
    blow carbon out of an engine, just like steaming it out...

    Here is the steam procedure. Do this at your own risk. Very carefully
    spray a fine mist of water into the carb mouths while the engine is
    running in neutral at a high speed, say 5K or 6K...

    The water is supposed to turn into steam, making high pressure in the
    combustion chambers and this loosens the carbon so it blows out the
    pipe. You'll see lots of black soot blowing out the tailpipes...

    Don't breathe the soot...

    The hazard of steaming out the carbon is when you get too much liquid
    water in the combustion chamber on the compression stroke. You can bend
    a rod if the piston hydraulically locks, even momentarily...
     
    krusty kritter, Jun 15, 2005
    #5
  6. 1st, even. ;-)
     
    Michael Sierchio, Jun 15, 2005
    #6

  7. I just got rid of a whole bunch of alarming noises by remounting
    and damping the aluminum bash plate that protects my oil pan.
    The bash plate was a large flat aluminum surface acting just
    like a sounding board and picking up all kinds of funny
    harmonic vibrations at different RPMs. With a little bit of
    rubber damping on this one spot, the engine sounds 100% OK.

    Take a look at the tank, muffler and other possible sources
    of harmonic vibrations. Also, does it come and go at given
    RPMs, or as the tank gets empty ? Any big flat surface is
    a suspect, especially if it's sheet metal.

    Just for laughs too, you might try some techron in the tank
    in the hope it might smooth out the engine.

    If you've got a timing chain, they can also make some funny noises
    if they're worn or not tensioned right, though I'd expect
    you'd hear that when stopped.
     
    Rob Kleinschmidt, Jun 15, 2005
    #7
  8. Sabre

    Matt Guest

    Thanks for all those clues.

    I haven't resolved the fouling problem in my left cylinder (waiting for
    delivery of carb overhaul kits). I was somewhat worried about getting
    the engine too carboned up during my test drives. I take it that
    getting rid of carbon isn't all that hard ... I'm thinking that I'd
    better watch out for pinging though ...
     
    Matt, Jun 15, 2005
    #8
  9. Heavy carbon buildup can restrict intake and exhaust flow and it can
    cause pinging when it glows red hot and ignites the fuel/air mixture
    before the
    spark plug ever fires...

    You can cool off the combustion process by wasting fuel from very rich
    jetting, or you can fall back on an old trick that isn't seen very
    often anymore. You can inject water into the intake tract...

    Pinging and detonation were studied in the 1920's by an investigator
    named Ricardo. Gasoline octane was so low in those days, the engine
    designers didn't dare use more than about 4:1 compression ratio, which
    reduced the "air standard efficiency" of the engine...

    Air standard efficiency is the theoretical percentage of heat converted
    to work, and it assumes that the cylinder is filled with dry air and
    heat is added. It ignores silly things like the fact that the air
    contains X percentage of moisture and maybe 15 percent fuel by weight
    and it ignores the fact the evaporating gasoline cools the process...

    But, anyway, if an engine has an ASE of 47.5% at 5:1 compression, it
    will have 60.2% ASE at 10:1 compression. The 27% increase in efficiency
    was worthy of being found, somehow...

    Of course, modern gasoline isn't the low octane stuff that Ricardo had
    to work with, nowadays a procedure called "reforming" cracks the
    pentane ring
    in low octane gas and re-arranges the molecules to make them burn
    slower and be more resitsant to pinging...

    But Ricardo had to work with what he had. One of the interesting things
    he found was that engines pinged under heavy load if they weren't
    turning fast enough and they pinged under light load, too. The pinging
    phenomenon seemed to be related to combustion pressure in the cylinder.
    Under heavy combustion pressure, the engine wouldn't ping until the
    operator reduced throttle...

    As I recall, Ricardo worked with water injection, too.

    Water doesn't burn, why inject it? When you heat a pound of water to
    raise the temperature 1 degree, it takes an amount of heat called a
    British Thermal Unit to raise the temperature 1 degree F. But if you
    instantly turn the water into *steam* in the combustion chamber, that
    same pound of water absorbs 944 BTU's changing phase.

    So a tiny amount of water introduced into a combustion chamber absorbs
    a lot of heat and cools the combustion process, while at the same time,
    the water is expanding into steam that occupies about 2700 times the
    space that the water took up.

    So the water raises the combustion pressure, which forces the spark at
    the plug to occur later than it would if there was wasn't as much
    pressure in the cylinder...

    The injected water does three things: it cools the combustion chamber,
    raises the combustion pressure and retards the spark, and it blasts the
    carbon buildup out of the top end of the engine...

    Back in the 1940's and 1950's, hot rodders who'd found out about
    water/alcohol injection used on WW2 airplane engines jumped to the
    conclusion that the alcohol was in the mix to raise horsepower.
    Actually the alcohol was there as an antifreeze agent...

    Nowadays, only oldtimers seem to remember anything about decarbonizing
    an engine with steam...
     
    krusty kritter, Jun 16, 2005
    #9
  10. Sabre

    Sabre Guest

    Sorry I wasn't able to respond sooner, but I have had some computer
    problems. Anyway, thank you all for your input. I Just got back from a
    ride, and took her to about 90 in 3rd. Was there only for a moment before
    shifting. No change.

    Although now it will make the noise while revving it.

    On my way to the highway I stopped by the local auto part store to get a
    spark plug socket, as none of mine fit. But they didn't have one for me
    either. I wanted to see if there is any carbon build up on the plugs.

    Thank you for all of the ideas.

    Someone thought it might be the timing linkage... I will investigate that
    next.

    I will be on vacation and will not have internet access for the next week,
    so don't expect any replies from me.

    Thank you all!

    PS
    What's the difference between a Honda Sabre and a Honda Shadow Sabre?
     
    Sabre, Jun 18, 2005
    #10
  11. snip
    Heh. Put 8500 miles on mine and sold it for what I paid for it new
    ($3000).

    Had a co-worker tell me it was a POS, his buddy had one and it "would
    barely do 100".

    Can't be any help on the tech-end, other than routine maintenance,
    only problem I had with mine was after doing a squid-drop in the
    gravel the LH mirror head would tuck in a little at about 110 mph.

    Poor mirror spent better than half it's life tucked in.

    Another co-worker once took it for a spin and utterly and totally
    dropped the hammer in 2nd while swerving to the left to pass a
    pick-up. He didn't have a lot of street experience, but his dirt
    knowledge paid off as he did a power-slide on dry pavement all the way
    around the pick-up (didn't let up).

    He thought I would be pissed (I saw the whole thing), I was jealous
    that I didn't have the cojones to try it.

    I guess I would be a recovering V-65 Sabre former owner also.

    Sigh.

    TC
     
    toecutter1962, Jun 18, 2005
    #11
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