Regualtor/Rectifer needs replacing

If the components are accessible, that's a different story. If it is a
sealed brick in epoxy, which I thought, then it isn't rebuildable.

 

They could use a guy like for an electrical cage mechanic, here. He
wouldn't do any worse than one of the stealer shops here in town.

 

Lots of good advice has been given here already, particularly the
comments about the voltage sensing wire. I've read a few pages (no
URL's, google for it) that gave advice on how to avoid failures on
RR's, and relocating the sensor wire straight to the battery was high
on the list for most. Some other manufacturers (I think BMW?) have the
same problem and the fix is the same. I do a lot of wiring for my
work, and the connectors even on brand new bikes is in the dark ages.
Some new bikes _still_ have bullet connectors.... I've rewired most of
the bikes that i planned on owning for more than 6 months, and for the
ones i was keeping short term i just did the critical parts.

This is really worthwhile, takes little time, not much expertise and
only costs a few dollars. If you like your bike then i would reccomend
replacing the wiring to the fuse box at least, and run a +12V wire
__direct to the coils__. THis is the side that charges the coils, and
i think you'll find on most bikes (even new ones) there is some
resistance here. The wiring is often very small gauge, smaller than
the lighting wires, and if you look at it on an older bike you will
probably find the wire completely burnt out inside. The copper
corrodes internally and turns black. For all the money people spend on
fancy spark plugs, low impedance leads, even high performance coils,
i've almost never met a person who looked at how the power was getting
from the source to the coils in the first place. Replace this wiring
with slightly heavier gauge stuff, doesnt have to be monster cable
thick, go up one or two gauges over original. The connectors are
usually spade bits on the coils. Give the terminals a clean up and a
coat of dielectric grease while you're there.

Ditto for the switching side of the coils which generally runs back to
the CDI box, black box, computer or points if you have them. Replace
these with the better stuff and you'll be surprised at how your bike
starts easier. You might even find slightly better fuel economy if you
keep track of stuff like that.

The RR on my cbr1000 is stuffed too, and im undecided what to do. will
look into one of the aftermarket units, but what i've also looked at
doing is just replacing the entire charging system piecemeal. The
alternator on a CBR1000 is outside of the engine unlike most bikes. It
sits just behind the cylinders and is chain driven i think. This means
there would be some potentiol for removing the whole lot and slotting
in an alternator from a cage (gasp!). It would require appropriate
brackets/spacers/cogs whatever, but these alternators are high output
(up to 90A or over 1000watts on many cages) have the RR built in, run
for donkeys years and can be had for as little as $10 from a wrecking
yard. There are only 4 wires on most and they are pretty obvious to
hook up. Big fat red one (sometimes bolted on) is your charge, then on
a separate connector you've got one for a fail light (no need to
connect) one for earth, and one that 'gets things going' and needs to
be connected to a battery via the IGN switch. I've slotted in
additional alternators with their own batteries in this way on boats
and jeeps as a secondary power source, and i've also seen it done on
two bikes though it was implemented in a pretty ugly way. On one
suzuki rat bike a guy drilled a hole in his crankcase, welded a bit of
rod to the crank, welded a cog onto that, then ran a chain to the
alternator which was strapped _in front_ of the engine. Looks worse
than it sounds. the other guy welded his straight onto the crank!

It does seem like a lot of farting around, which is why im still
undecided.... but if im planning to keep this bike for a few years ill
probably do it. I like to put in big miles on my bikes, and i could
use the extra power and reliability. Not to mention being able to get
a straight bolt on replacement for pocket change ant any wreckers in
the country. The machinist at work sells his time for 6 packs which
could be a decider in the positive.

If you're keen on possibly going the same route then send me an email.
If we get 3 or 4 guys together i can get a small production run of
parts made up for a bolt-on kit to put a cage alternator on a CBR1000.
I'd do it at cost and we split the price evenly.

Shaun

 

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