Rusted bolts

Slightly OS but this applies here too I'd imagine.
I went to replace the blades on an old Victa lawn mower to find that the
bolts - with the nuts on the underside of the flywheel - are well and truly
rusted as well as the reverse threaded bolt holding the flywheel to the
shaft. I've used a good amount of WD40 over the last week and holding the
flywheel in place with a block of wood and helping my wrench with a hammer
but still no luck. The local mower repair place wants $40 just to remove the
old bolts and blades (I have my own new ones).
Any suggestions for someone without a good set of tools?

Cheers,
Shane.

 

In aus.motorcycles on Mon, 25 Aug 2003 15:45:05 +1000

If you don't have heat like a propane torch or old kero blowtorch, and
an impact driver, than play the money to the people who do have the
tools.

That simple.

Zebee

 

Buy a good set of tools.

(Comparitively, that $40 isn't all that expensive!)

-----sharks

 

Drop over on the weekend and I will sort them out for you.

Boxer

 

Grind them off seeing as though you have replacements. If you didn't I
would soak them and then either use an impact driver or hit the nuts
with a hammer to loosen them a bit (trying not to damage the thread or
what's left of the threads).

Grinding is simpler.

__


Cheers,
The Happy Drunk
K100RT

"bless our bikes,
bless our food,
and we hope our old ladies be in the mood."

 

Given this is a motorcycle newsgroup , go out and buy a Honda Mower

 

"Hyperactive Fruitloop" wrote

I use penetrene, a compressor and a rattle-gun. That's probably what
your mower man is going to do. $40 is a good option for you. When you
put the new nut on, put some anti-seize grease on it.

My neighbour has the same mower as me and he has a much cheaper
option. It's the wheel it over to Theo's option.

Try to get to know your local Theo.

Theo

 

That one got me!!
I have to explain myself to the missus now (but I can't until I get rid of the mental image of Sharkey on his
hands and knees on the front lawn).
Clem

 

BT Humble said....

BH> Go and spend $20 on a cheap angle grinder. It should last long enough to
BH> finish the job. ;-)

I wanted to use the "cheap angle grinder" trick when I bought a new
chain and sprockets (to get the old chain off, Nev..). However, the
cheapest that Mitre 10 or Home Hardware had was $100. I bought an 80
cent grinding wheel and attached it to my drill....

 

sharkey said....

sh> I tried this, but the grass keeps clogging it up.

Hmmm. Do you still have grass in Melbourne?

 

Knobdoodle said....

Kn> I have to explain myself to the missus now (but I can't until I get rid
Kn> of the mental image of Sharkey on his hands and knees on the front lawn).

Just the image of Sharks on his hands and knees is enough for me.....

 

Bunnings has them for $18.88, by the palette load.
Hammer drills, too.

(no wheel though, and shockingly poor construction.)

-----sharks

 

.... but I didn't have your old chain. :-/

Nev..
'02 CBR1100XX #2

 

Well there's cheap and there's poor quality, and the two donn't always
go together.

(I've got a Makita angle grinder that was fished out of a dumpster,
all I had to do was put a new power cord on it).


BTH

 

New power cord! Oooh, look who's all hoity-toity since he
became landed gentry. Should have fished through the dumpster
looking for a dead kettle or something.

(Right, off to Tintaldra then! See you there, slackers!)

-----sharks

 

sharkey said....

sh> Bunnings has them for $18.88, by the palette load.
sh> Hammer drills, too.

I bought a hammer drill once. Had problems with it punching holes into
the nails....

sh> (no wheel though, and shockingly poor construction.)

I can imagine. Limited home use items. Shits itself, get another one.
Sort of like these $70 printers that I've been buying lately. Cheaper
than the ink carts...