Rusty Bandit Exhaust III

I have finally got it off, one of the bolts came out after being soaked in
Plus gas and being bashed with a small cold chisel, the other one started to
turn after the same treatment and then snapped, flush with the head when I
got a torx bit hammered in it

So now it needs drilling out and re tapping........simple? yeah right

Think I'll take it to Del Basso's, and let them have the fun.

Thanks to every one for the advice.


Nick

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Nick

Yeah right. LH drill is what you need matey. Like this one here.

Nooooooooooooo! Unless their ham-fisted spanner wankas have improved
*radically* over the last few years.

Bung it over here (Holwell) and I'll see what can be done.

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - Manufacturer of the "Champion-105" range of rearsets
and Ducati Race Engineer.

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
SBS#39 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000

 

Thats a very decent offer, I am going to send the pipes off to Banditmania
tomorrow, Can I get in touch when they are back? I am going away over the
Bhol weekend 'till wednesday, So after then?

Thanks again

Nick

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Nick

No problem. I'm off the bank holiday week, so that'd be a good time.

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - Manufacturer of the "Champion-105" range of rearsets
and Ducati Race Engineer.

WS* GHPOTHUF#24 APOSTLE#14 DLC#1 COFF#20 BOTAFOT#150 HYPO#0(KoTL) IbW#41
SBS#39 Enfield 500 Curry House Racer "The Basmati Rice Burner",
Honda GL1000K2 (On its hols) Kawasaki ZN1300 Voyager "Oh, Oh, It's so big"
Suzuki TS250 "The Africa Single" Yamaha GTS1000

 

Now you know why loosening and retorquing the exhaust bolts is part of
a service for a Suzuki. I replaced mine with stainless long ago.

You can get it out yourself with a Dremel, a variable speed drill,
a new set of drill bits and about four hours. Or you could spend
4 hours on your back and earn enough to pay a man to do it.

 

Or just go and buy a helicoil set which includes the drill, taps,
inserts and tool for putting the inserts in and do the job in 15
minutes.

 

There's a certain satisfaction in getting the old bolt out without
damaging the thread in the head.
And fifteen minutes is rather optimistic with the engine in situ.
If you don't start with a small drill to make a pilot hole, your main drill
will slip and make rather a mess of things.

 

I don't think it's optimistic at all. If the stud was an outer one
then 10 minutes would be realistic. The drill wouldn't slip if I
centre punched the stud before I started and I'd be surprised if the
stud was in anything over 20mm deep.

I do this sort of stuff for a living so even if it does go to ratshit
I can usually find a way to put right the damage. I often sit and
laugh at some of the well intentioned suggestions on here and can
predict the end results with some accuracy most times. The biggest
problem is when things go wrong, I've got access to a full engineering
workshop to put right my **** ups but not many others have the same
luxury.