Rusty Bandit Exhaust Part II

Thank you to Pip for the excellent advice, that sounds exactly what I need.

Now....any tips for removing two utterly immovable exhaust bolts? ( second
cyl from left looking from the front) I have tried every thing I can think
of they broke an allen key, tried one in a ratchet and it rotated in the
bolt and now I have two bolts with round holes in the end in a difficult
place. Great.
Any suggestions welcome. I feel some time I may owe some drinks for this
help, I do appreciate it.

Nick

 

Nick wrote

Google is your friend.




Note to KotFFAQ:
Innit about time we had this in there?

 

any tips for removing two utterly immovable exhaust bolts? ( second cyl from left looking from the front) I have tried every thing I can think of they broke an allen key, tried one in a ratchet and it rotated in the bolt and now I have two bolts with round holes in the end in a difficult place.

You could try cutting a line across them with a hacksaw and using a
straight screw driver?

 

Heat is good, very very hot heat.

--
Dan L (Oldbloke)
My bike 1996 Kawasaki ZR1100 Zephyr
M'boy's bike 2003 Honda NSR125R (Going)
Spare Bike 1990 Suzuki TS50X (Patio Ornament)
BOTAFOT #140 (KotL 2005), X-FOT#000, DIAABTCOD #26, BOMB#18 (slow)

 

One method is to hammer in a torx/star bit which will grip into the
mashed allen head, and should be able to get it out. Give them a
good soak in WD40 first - use some plasticine/blu-tak to make a
well for it if you need to.

Or, as has already been suggested, cut a slit into then and then
use a flat bit on a wrench to get them undone - a wrench will give
you more torque or you could try an impact driver, depending on
space.

Drilling or cutting off the head could also be another option,
again depending on space/access.

Should they not be a stud with a nut on instead of a bolt? I've
had more success using a chisel to get them off as they either
give and you can then get them undone (even really rounded off
nuts) or you end up cutting through the nut and splitting it
off anyway. I just used a cheap wood chisel I had laying about.

HTH,

 

Give them a good soak in WD40 first

Penetrating oil, or brake fluid, can also sometimes get down the sides
of the bolt.

 

Thank you to Pip for the excellent advice, that sounds exactly what I

Gas Axe!
Heat until alloy has expanded enough to allow rotation of errant bolt with a
Torx bit tapped into the head of the screw.
Adding a smear of common household soap helps on the alloy as it will burn
before you get to melt the alloy.


--


--
Robbo

Trophy 1200 1998
BotaFOF #19. E.O.S.M 2001/2002/2003/2004.
B.O.S.M 2003, 2004, 2005
FURSWB#1 KotL..YTC449
PM#7
..

 

I learned that at school, when they let kids play with that sort of kit.
Now all they seem to do is make egg cups out of plastic.

 

That's a really useful piece of advice if you want to help someone
**** up a cylinder head. It would help if you used your brain a bit
and realised that when the alloy expands it does so in all directions
and actually grips the stud tighter until the whole head has "grown"
but by the time it's done that you've run a serious risk of fucking it
up.

The best way to get the stud out is to use a small brazing nozzle
with an oxy-acetylene set and heat up the stud only so it grew quickly
and then when it cooled it'd be freed off from whatever was holding
it. Using a blow lamp or a standard large nozzled gas axe will heat up
the head as well so it's not as safe a way of doing the job.

 

Hmm. You're tight for access there too, with the frame in the way.
If you're struggling, support the engine and drop that frame section
out.

I'm no fan of cutting screwdriver slots across bolts like this - the
head usually splits and the situation gets worse. I'd obtain a
damn-tight-fit Torx or star drive bit, hammer the bastard in and MIG
weld it to the bolt head. The point heat of welding will often break
the corrosion.

If welding isn't an option, I'd get the bolt good and hot, hammer the
driver in and get an impact driver on it. Giving it a smack
clockwise, as if to tighten it will often crack the corrosion too,
then it can be undone relatively easily.

A pre-emptive overnight soak with a decent penetrating oil may help -
use Plus-Gas or similar: WD40 isn't really good here. You do need a
tight-fitting spiky bit though, and be prepared to sacrifice one or
two bits in the process. An impact driver is fucking invaluable, as
is the commitment to accurately hit it with a good smack - don't piss
about or you'll destroy the bit or the bolt without loosening it.
Strike hard and true, my man.

Heat is the way to go with stubborn fasteners - but as Andy says,
point heat is the way to go. Generalyl wafting a lighter around isn't
going to achieve anything.

Give it a soak with Plus-Gas.
Get a tight-fitting Torx bit that fits an impact driver.
Have a large hammer handy.
Get the bastard hot - and hit it hard.

Good luck.

 

Have a fire-extinguisher handy...

 

Thanks again, I have spent all day looking for Plus Gas. It seems, according
to a bloke in a car shop in Rickmansworth, that there is a shortage. Did get
some in the end. I am going to soak it and try again with a torx bit
hammeded in.
I like the sound of the grabbit tool any more info would be welcome, I'll
have a google in the mean time.


Nick