Second neutral??

As y'all know already, 2003 model ZZR250. Approx 2750Km on
the clock (yes, I know, I've been riding it a lot!). Last
oil/filter change at 1000Km, next book change at 6000Km,
next planned change at 3500-4000Km. (Not even sure that oil
has anything to do with the price of fish) Seems to have
developed itself a 'second neutral'. Don't remember where
it is, but I think maybe between 2nd and 3rd, or 3rd and
4th. Only finds it on gentle upchanges (like when halfway
through a corner from a standing start, and rolling with
the clutch in to let the car in front get away a bit), and
only when I really need to be concentrating on something
else right then.

Is this normal behaviour, or an oddity? Am I right in
assuming that gear selection is something that is cast
in, well, iron and that there's nothing to adjust to make
it go away? (It's not a particular problem, just that
it's happened a few times now, and seems kinda wierd.)

TIA,

G

 

fix that lazy foot of yours

 

Is this normal behaviour, or an oddity? Am I right in

yep, give it a good whack through rather than a gentle 'snick' and pull the
clutch in all the way

 

Try adjusting the position of the gear lever at rest, so that it hangs a
little lower, and hence gets more 'throw' when you upshift. Experiment with
the position and see if it helps alleviate the problem... good luck.

Sprint

 

i get the same thing every now and then on the 600. must be a ZZR trait. it
happens rarely tho.

--
Cheers
Dave

1991 ZZR 600
1991 EB Falcon wagon
1969 ZC Fairlane



admin@loopback $LOGIN@localhost
$LOGNAME@localhost $USER@localhost $USER@$HOST -h1024@localhost

 

tsk tsk..clutching through a corner... the text books say thats baaaaddd...
But, i wont be a hipocrit, (spelling??). However, try what sprint mentioned
and remember to change the gear... dont caress it.

 

Hi G.B,
The low power (relative to bigger bikes), probably means that the teeth on
the gears do not need to be greatly undercut, like a sportsbike. So it would
seem to be easier to slip into a false neutral under light load. Also the
tension of the drive chain would be a factor as well.
I seem to remember my ZZR 250 having a few missing cogs, I think.
The other choice is to get thicker boots, or adjust the selector downwards,
and push harder/longer.
Rob.

 

You know how they teach you to hold tension on the shift with your foot from
1st to 2nd .. well .. what they didn't tell you is that you should do the
same thing through all the gears if it's a bit suspect. Other than that,
play around with the adjustment for your foot so you've got a nice positive
*snick* on the upshifts, and make sure you're pulling the clutch all the day
in.

I've got over 5000km on my late 2003 CBR954 .. so you're not riding enough
btw!

Cam
'03 954

 

My 01 ZZR250 used to do that as well, But really it's the rider not forcing
the selection enough, I used to get it between 5th and 6th.

 

Tsk, time to split the cases.

Though I'll buy it off you for 1200.

Hammo

 

Tsk, time to split the cases.
I now remember when i first posted to this group with a bike problem i took
this advice seriously and was ready to split the cases before another motian
(mick) came and checked my bike out to discover that i needed to learn how
to adjust tapets...

--
Josh - Southport, QLD

('81 GSX250 --> '83 VT250--> '85 GPz600R --> '98 ZX9R)
Remove _baffles_ to reply.

Tsk, time to split the cases.

Though I'll buy it off you for 1200.

Hammo
[/QUOTE]

 

There's plenty of good advice around here, it's just that there's
plenty of bad advice too. Anyway, on the Spagthorpe Dachshund
you _did_ have to split the cases to adjust the tappets ...[1]

-----sharks

[1] it was a transverse-crank horizonatally opposed twin, but with the
heads together in the middle (for ease of carburetion) and the cranks
at front and back. The dual exposed primary toothed belts provided
sufficient grip to power the Dachshund through the deepest snow, despite
its great length and squat stature ...

 

Hey look, Josh worked out how to attribute and how to post in context. Wonder
when he'll find out about trimming.

Nev..
'03 ZX12R
'02 CBR1100XX

 

"Nev.." wrote

He's too hirsute?

Theo

 

"sharkey" wrote

For a really stupid tappet design, it's hard to surpass the early Ford
Prefect. My father-in-law had one of these with a sidevalve motor.
This motor did not have any mechanical tappet adjustment. The valve
stem had no cap and collet system to hold the valve springs on either.
The valve stem had a ball shaped end and the spring cap had a slot in
it so you compressed the spring and slid the cap on the narrow part of
the stem. To enable this ball-ended valve to be removed from the
engine, the valve guide was split and had to be driven out of the head
to enable valve removal. Once you removed the head, the valve spring,
and driven out the valve guide, the tappet clearance was adjustable by
means of grinding the ball end of the valve.

Ford ingenuity by the one bean, two beans, three beans method.

Theo

 

He's too hirsute?

What The??

 

I now remember when i first posted to this group with a bike problem i took
this advice seriously and was ready to split the cases before another motian
(mick) came and checked my bike out to discover that i needed to learn how
to adjust tapets...[/QUOTE]

Welcome to harsh week Josh...

big

 

Welcome to harsh week Josh...

But it was 2 years ago when i had the problems and was told to split the
cases. Ah well, now im slightly wiser...

 

I'm genuinely aghast.

-----sharks

 

"sharkey" wrote

Makes OHC bucket and shim look fairly simple. don't it?



Theo