Sig change: Am I mad ?

Discussion in 'Classic Motorcycles' started by crn, Jun 21, 2009.

  1. crn

    crn Guest

    Having flogged the LE and the CB250RS I had some vacant space.

    First the not-quite-so-daft bit, my cage is 2.5 tons of Renault Master
    minibus chewing 90 quid in diesel every month, and half of the miles
    are short trips to the supermarket which is not good for the engine but
    ICBA to get a bike out and put it away again for a 5 mile round trip.
    Enter a (sort of) bargain. A chinese scoot with only 680km in 3 years
    for the price of 3 months diesel. All I need now is a top box and I have
    a disposable plastic shopping trolley that can live outside ready to go.

    The next bit is a bit of an unknown until I collect it, a 500/4 project.
    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200353457377
    With any luck it will just need a fresh battery and some carb cleaning.
    Did I pay too much ?
     
    crn, Jun 21, 2009
    #1
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  2. Um, it may have only done 680km because it keeps breaking down.
    It's a 400 Four, not a 500. You outbid me on it. The wheels are off a
    250 Super Dream. Carb cleaning could be an utter nightmare. Rear guard
    is dead. Front guard is one of those universal chrome thingies. And you
    can see what the left-hand panel is, or isn't.

    I'd budget £100 for a carb ultrasound clean. Another £100 on new oil,
    plugs, air filter, battery, oii filter and one or two odds and sods.

    Plus add 50% for the stuff that's buggered but which you can't see.

    And another ton on tax and ticket, as near as. So you're up to over a
    grand and we haven't got the cosmetics sorted yet. Yes, you paid too
    much. As a breaker, the parts will fetch about a grand, so you won't be
    out of pocket. The exhaust alone looks near-perfect: I sold one two
    weeks ago for nearly £300.

    If the kickstart knuckle isn't broken, that's another £40-60 depending
    on the chrome. Always sell the kickstart separate from the engine. The
    engine itself - £75 as is, of closer to £300 if you can get it running
    and prove it runs sweetly.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Jun 21, 2009
    #2
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  3. crn

    crn Guest

    Actually no, it belonged to a woman FOAF who used it for a month, had
    a scare, and put in the garage for 3 years. All it needed was fresh fuel
    and a battery. An oil change would probably be a good idea.

    Yep the 500 was a tyop. How much did I outbid you by, I was rather surprised
    that a last minute bidder almost beat me.
    It is rather close to you, did you get to look at it ?
     
    crn, Jun 21, 2009
    #3
  4. Didn't look at it, no, and only bid £480 because I could see the flaws.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Jun 22, 2009
    #4
  5. crn

    crn Guest

    Harumpf.
    I got hoisted on my own bad habits with this one.
    Bidders tend to fight with a load of "a few quid more" bids at the last minute
    so I use a stupidly high last minute bid to make them run out of time.
    On this occasion somone else did the same thing for a few quid less than
    me and I got caught for my stupid max.

    Time will tell just how daft I was.
     
    crn, Jun 22, 2009
    #5
  6. crn

    TOG@Toil Guest

    Heh. Bidder 18 probably did the same thing and is now thanking his
    lucky stars that you were there.
    It's not so bad. You'll just have to be ruthless. Try and get it going
    with a jump-start and some fresh petrol, and the plugs that are in it
    cleaned. If it runs sweetly then, it might be worth continuing. If,
    OTOH, it splutters and misfires, or doesn't even run it all, forget
    it.

    At this stage you'll have spent nowt, but if you think: "Oh, well, I'm
    sure the misfire can easily be sorted..." then you'll be in the smelly
    stuff. Just break it for parts. If you look at my completed auctions,
    you'll see what 400 Four stuff goes for.

    Oh, and list all the little grommets and clips. Like the clutch cable
    guide that's bolted to the rocker cover. And the wire cable guides.
    And the genuine engine breather pipe (if it's still on it). These are
    all worth money. You'll turn a profit on it.
     
    TOG@Toil, Jun 22, 2009
    #6
  7. crn

    Gyp Guest

    I was struggling with this one recently, especially when you get to
    larger bid increments; is it worth putting in an early bid where to be
    outbid the bidder would need to go over a psychological barrier, or is
    it still worth the last minute bid of what you're willing to pay [2]

    In the end I went for the last minute bid and pleasantly get it for less
    than I'd offered the bloke as a cash payment during the auction :)


    [1] Pay more for something than anyone else thinks it's worth (c) Champ
    [2] Rather than something stupidly high, which seems err stupid.
     
    Gyp, Jun 22, 2009
    #7
  8. crn

    Gyp Guest

    Turns out I was talking bollocs. I thought that a bid of, say, £4920
    could only be beater by a bid of £5020, but apparently not unless the
    bidding is already at £4920.

    If the next lower bidder is, say, £3000, a bid of £4920.01 would become
    the high bidder.
     
    Gyp, Jun 22, 2009
    #8
  9. crn

    Champ Guest

    While I'd love to take credit, I'm not at all sure that this quote
    should be attributed to me.
     
    Champ, Jun 22, 2009
    #9
  10. crn

    Gyp Guest

    It's a good quote though, don't fight it.
     
    Gyp, Jun 22, 2009
    #10
  11. crn

    Colin Irvine Guest

    I'm the only person I've seen quote it on ukrm, and I nicked it from a
    newspaper columnist - can't remember which.
     
    Colin Irvine, Jun 22, 2009
    #11
  12. crn

    Gyp Guest

    So it was probably Champ quoting you quoting someone else. Either way
    it's a good quote.

    Though possibly with a few exceptions, the one person that thinks it's
    worth more than the winning bidder is the seller.
     
    Gyp, Jun 22, 2009
    #12
  13. crn

    crn Guest

    Well....
    Bodged a spare battery onto it, cleaned the plugs, drained the tank.
    A gallon of fresh fuel, drained the carbs, refilled, drained again.
    Started after a quick sniff of Easy Start but only running on the
    right 2 cylinders. Rechecked spark - 1&2 both OK.
    Smelt fuel, found that carbs 1&2 are flooding out of the overflow pipes
    so it looks like the floats are sticky. If sitting in fresh fuel
    overnight does not fix it I will have to pull them out and do some
    cleaning.

    General condition is not bad but not good. It needs a left side panel
    and a good cleanup. Some twerp has sprayed the chrome rear mudguard
    matt black, the visible parts are actually OK but the usual rot under
    the seat.

    So far, so good. It is only costing time which I have plenty of as a
    pensioner.
     
    crn, Jun 24, 2009
    #13
  14. Or the float valve seat seals have hardened and are no longer sealing.
    See this month's Classic Bike for an ilustrated article on how to fix
    them.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Jun 24, 2009
    #14
  15. crn

    crn Guest

    Progess is being made ....

    The carbs were badly shitted up, as can be expected for something left
    standing since the tax disk ran out in 10/01. Much cussing getting the
    damn things out with short stubby fingers. I have a nice box of Lidl's
    assorted O rings so the silicone bodge was not required.
    The engine now sounds nice and sweet so no worries there.
    If nobody asks me for the engine I will continue fettling.

    The brakes are sticky, a strip and clean should fix that.
    I need to find a BOL or at least a wiring diagram, the indicators are
    not working and it does not seem to be charging, I suspect both problems
    are due to corroded connections rather than expensive parts.

    Onwards and upwards....
     
    crn, Jun 28, 2009
    #15
  16. crn

    Timo Geusch Guest

    Good start.
    They all do that and it's the front so it'll be a stuck arm.

    Good luck, you'll need it.
     
    Timo Geusch, Jun 28, 2009
    #16
  17. Brakes - see Timo's answer. That'll be the silly pivoting arm front
    caliper.

    Charging - almost certainly the connections, as the old SOHC fours all
    have super-reliable charging systems, in my experience.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Jun 28, 2009
    #17
  18. crn

    crn Guest

    Not on this one, it has the Superdream forks and wheels [1]. The rear brake
    was dragging, fixed with some WD40 where the armspline enters the drum.
    BTW I also have the (tatty) original forks & wheels - they could be
    restored but ICBA at the moment.
    Thats what I thought. Do you know of a downloadable wiring diagram
    or BOL, if not I will order a Haynes BOL from Spamazon.

    [1] Is this a common modification ?, the superdream wheels look quite
    good, are lighter, and take tubeless tyres.
     
    crn, Jun 28, 2009
    #18
  19. Oh yeah, I forgot.

    Um, I've got some decent wheels and forks, actually. Obviously, you'll
    need the original brake assembly, though.
    I've got two or three Haynes BOLs in my garage. Drop us your snail mail
    address (my addie in sig) and I'll post one off to you.
    It's more common to see a 400 Super Dream front end, because that gives
    you the double disc. The 250's single disc is no better than the 400
    Four's. I don't think the Comstars are much lighter, actually. They do
    look nice, as you say, but obviously these days everyone wants
    originality.
     
    The Older Gentleman, Jun 28, 2009
    #19
  20. crn

    A.Clews Guest

    In my experience on a 250 SuperDream, Comstar wheels are terrifying in a
    strong crosswind, even if they do look nice.
     
    A.Clews, Jul 1, 2009
    #20
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