'small' impact driver

According to the Bandit workshop manual, it says to remove the float
bowl screws using an impact driver. I have an impact driver, but it's a
bloody great big affair. Is there such a thing as a small impact driver?
The screws are currently proving to be rather stubborn - any good
tips for getting them out?

 

Use a good fitting screwdriver. I find a screwdriver bit in a long "T"
handle works well. Forget the impact driver, it's a sledgehammert to
crack a nut.

Loosen and retighten anyihing on the handlebars that's secured by
screws too periodically. Saves trouble later on ..

Paul.

 

Swear words.
Soak liberally with Plusgas first, then wait a bit, then choose your
very best screwdriver or interchangeable bit. Cross fingers of hand
holding carb upside down firmly. Push down on screwdriver very firmly
and repeat the mantra "shift yer barstard."

Or secure carb firmly but gently in a vice. Use an adaptor on normal
impact driver to take small drive extension and bit. Apply small
brummagem screwdriver.


--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster [ SPACE ! ] Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

Yup, this is the important bit. I have a selection of really good
screwdrivers I don't use for 'general stuff' for this, and choose the
one that fits best.

If you can get a good fitting bit, and get a 3/8" adaptor onto
something hefty like this,

http://www.teng.co.uk/m380015-c-teng-tools-3-or-8-inches-drive-10-inches-spinner-handle_1157_pd.asp

you get better thrutch on it.

Paul.

 

Turn the air pressure down a bit and use the rattle gun.

 

In communiqué

I have a pikey Aldi set of numerous screwdriver bits (including torx and
other oddities) and a 1/4 drive adapter. Usually one of them is a much
better fit than anything else.

Indeed. I've got a 1/4 drive version, also a 3/8 to 1/4 adaptor for do
or die situations.

Also a small natty 90 degree ratchet driver thingy I got from a show
years ago. Reaches the parts...


--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster [ SPACE ! ] Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

The small gas soldering iron I got from Aldi has a hot air blower head.
Very useful for applying heat without a naked flame.


--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster [ SPACE ! ] Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

You can imitate an impact screwdriver simply by tapping on the end of
an ordinary screwdriver with a hammer as you give the screwdriver a
short hard twist. That way you can use your best-fitting screwdriver.
And it does work!

 

Grind the heads off, remove the float bowl and then remove the remains
of the screws using a pair of needle nosed pliers. They'll come out
easily once the load is off them and new screws will be cheap enough
to buy.

Obviously this is the last resort but once you've fucked the screw
heads up you've got nothing to lose.

 

Is quite likely what's going to happen. The screws are -really- soft.
Avoiding the use of hammers is always good in my case anyway. I had
already ordered a set of replacement screws (stainless, cap heads).

 

A good close-fitting screwdriver and taps with a small hammer.

 

And if you're lucky, the cheese won't shear.
Always tap it first.

 

Aye. Thanks for that suggestion from you and Colin. The trouble is with
my 'taps' is that if they don't work, they turn into 'belts, whacks and
thumps' and stuff breaks.

 

In communiqué <>, Grimly

Mechanics feel as Pirsig calls it innit? IME the bit starts to pan out
of the head or the slots open up before it shears. Then I switch to the
hammer strategy. Depends if your hoping for a quick diagnostic look see
or doing a full restoration. Hard to hold a carb and hit a screwdriver
with a hammer at the same time. If in doubt probably best to find a way
to secure it firmly anyway before trying to get them out.

--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster [ SPACE ! ] Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

If you're visiting Ampthill any time over the next 10 days feel free
to drop in and I'll smash the screws out for you

 

I'm hoping to organise the WUN/Mill/Turn/Beer/Curry event within that time.

 

If you can get round the back of the piece, one useful trick is to use one
of those hexagonal screwdriver bits, held in place with a C-clamp, and break
the stiction with a spanner on the hex bit. Obviously the C-clamp will stop
it from unscrewing more than a quarter turn max, but that should be enough
to free it.

 

Ok. I've had the plaster removed from my hand now so I feel more
sociable and less likely to drop beer/curry all over myself than I was
previously.

 

Heh. Lathe party.

I'm staying in digs near St Neots for the next few weeks, so if any of
the Bedford-isti are free for a few jars ...

Paul.

 

Yebbut you're working so wouldn't want to sit on park benches drinking
beer with us idle bastards.