SO-Boxer questions: changing the driveshaft gaiter

Discussion in 'Classic Motorcycles' started by Guest, Jun 19, 2008.

  1. Guest

    Guest Guest

    It's split; I've got another, but I have to fit it, so there are all
    those nice (?) 12-sided bolts to do, and stuff. :-(

    I've read the HBOL and Clymer, but both are worryingly reticent on the
    matter of those wretched driveshaft bolts:

    Can/should I use an ornery (12-sided) socket on them or is there a
    'special' for 1/2 or 3/8 drive? Then there's the not so small matter of
    27ft/lb torque - I've got the wrench, but I don't think I've got the
    room behind the swingarm to get it in there. Being BMW there's got to be
    a cunning plan (or a hideously expensive special thingy to do it with).
    I realise the bolts have to be replaced, but thought I'd ask here first
    before bunging in an order to Motobins/werks/Sherlocks, in case I
    definitely need a left-handed splunge-grabber, per usual.

    Finally, should I renew the swingarm races as a matter of course while
    I'm there, or are they built like Panzers and immune to all forms of
    mechanical wear? I can't feel any play in the arm, but have yet to take
    the shock off and check it properly. I *have* had a bit of wobble around
    75-80, but they all do that Sir, and I think it's tyre pressures/damping
    rather than the swingarm itself.

    It's a 1986-7 R80RT mono (not a paralever), and it's done around 60k but
    been regularly serviced/MOTed.

    All thoughts appreciated.

    Cheers,

    S.
     
    Guest, Jun 19, 2008
    #1
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  2. Guest

    Hog Guest

    I use a spanner and just get them *tight*
    If the bearings have been well greased and don't feel notched leave well
    alone.
     
    Hog, Jun 20, 2008
    #2
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  3. Guest

    the wizard Guest

    From memory, faded with age, a decent 10mm combination spanner is
    needed with a scaffold tube on the end. I think you can slide the
    coupling back enough to slip the new gaiter in without undoing the
    swinging arm bearings. It is a fiddly job, the gaiter gets in the way.
    Remember that the flange ibolts are not in a square but a rectangle,
    easy to get a bolt in then find that none of the others fit!
    T.W..
     
    the wizard, Jun 20, 2008
    #3
  4. Guest

    Guest Guest

    Thanks both!

    I haven't stripped it yet as I'm trying to keep to rule #1: don't start
    the strip down unless you've at least got all the bits to put it
    together again!*

    I didn't know about the rectangle - makes sense if it's a UJ but I
    probably would have spent an interesting time otherwise.

    So bolts on order from Sherlocks tomorrow...

    Thanks once again.

    S.


    *And RULE #0: Always do some visible DIY first!
     
    Guest, Jun 20, 2008
    #4
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