Southern Italy?

We're off on Thursday for ten days or so on the bikes in Southern Italy.
We're planning to head straight down as far as Naples and then start
exploring, probably starting with a day or two around Positano/Amalfi.

So... Basilicata, Puglia, Calabria; does anyone have any suggested must
see/must do/must avoid items? We're not planning to do Sicily on this trip,
but we just might find a ferry across the Adriatic and come back along the
Croatian coast.

Anyone been there or know the area?

 

Stick to the coasts in Campania: inland from Naples is pretty bleak,
nasty, Camorra-infested and generally unpleasant. Reggio Calabria is a
hole, due to the rebuilding after some big earthquake. If you're near
Naples drop in to Pompeii. Riding-wise, head down the coast to
Sorrento and points South, but keep an eye out for mad bus
drivers. Also, it's worth heading North of Naples to Gaeta or
Terracini.

 

I went there, albeit many years ago, and found the locals a bit
unfriendly. The Slovenians I like, however, and Bled is well worth a
visit.

 

I visited Croatia in 2005. The locals seemed very friendly to me. I've
been to Slovenia a number of times too. They are very friendly there,
also.

I was based in Opatija on the eastern end of the Istrian Peninsula.
It's a very nice, quite upmarket resort. Our hotel was superb,
overlooking the harbour.

The scenery along the very bumpy coast from Opatija to Pula road is
lovely. The mountain roads in the centre of Istria are better. Pula is
worth a visit for the Roman amphitheatre.

If you are riding north via Slovenia then there are some fab caves at
Postojna. The road from here, north via Idrija, Tolmin and then on to
Bovec is fab. The bit through the Soca valley in the Triglav NP is one
of my favourite parts of the Alps.

 

I was in Sorrento last year.

It's quite a nice place to have as a base. I stayed here http://www.mamicamilla.com/
which was cheap & excellent

Amalfi coast is great. Traffic is mad. It's very narrow in places and
the locals don't give way. Probably fine on a bike but going across by
car at this time of year will be a nightmare.

If you like Roman stuff then Paestum is worth a visit. Less commercial
than Ercolanum and Pompeii.

If you get a ferry across to Split then ride north via the Plitvik
National Park. A World Heritage site with 16 interlinked lakes &
waterfalls.

 

We went there sailing for two weeks the year before last, and found
completely tht opposite. From tiny fishing harbours to big[1] cities I
never felt that any of the locals were in any way hostile.

But cheap it ain't, with prices for everything from eating out to
buying clothes equating to, or exceeding, what you'd expect in the
rest of Western Europe. Certainly more expensive for most things than
Italy.


[1] Zadar, population ~100,000

 

Make bit of a detour and go via the cinque terre south of Genoa, it's
stunning.
Avoid: The mafia.

 

(M J Carley) wrote in

Interesting. Noted.

 

I'm not sure we actually will cross the Adriatic this time, but this is
great info for if we do. Thanks!

 

Iteresting. Thanks.

 

That looks nice. We provisionally thought we'd base ourselves in Positano
because it looks nicer than Sorrento in the Lonely Planet guide. What did
you think of Sorrento?

Good tips. Thanks.

 

Oh yes, we know the Cinque Terre well. This trip is intended to get us past
Northern Italy, where we've spent quite a lot of time.

Indeed.

 

Sorrento was quite pleasant. I was there in January and it was very
quiet. It may not be so pleasant once the Leger Holidays coaches
descend on the place. You get some super views across to Capri and
inland to Vesuvius. Mami Camilla is in S'Agnello which is a 20 minute
walk from Sorrento centre. Excellent and cheap train into Naples if
you fancy going there - I went to the Pompeii museum which was
interesting.

In/near Sorrento you will be able to find off the tourist track
places, which is what I prefer. You won't have that choice in
Positano.

 

I am straight, and have a (smallish) beard, so the perfect experiment
presents itself. I'll let you know.

 

Thank you for helping to pin down the parameters. I too am very friendly
and pleasant, fortunately. Soon we will have increased the sum of human
knowledge.

(Unless we decide to stay in Italy, of course.)

 

Well TBF this was in 1970, since when there's been wars and such. And
I'd already tried and failed to grow a beard.

 

I didn't pay that because a) I went in January b) booked a late deal
via ebookers
c) exchange rate was not 1:1 d) they were not so well known

yes, for a few days more

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, Bear

By an odd coincidence "Kuleen Ur-vayn" is Croatian for "**** you, big
nose.".

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - "He's hopeless, but he's honest"

I have already made the greatest contribution to the fight against climate
change that I can make: I have decided not to breed. Now quit bugging me and
go and talk to the Catholics.