Squeaky brakes

Hi all,

I've got a problem with the front brakes squeaking on my CBF600. I had a
bit of a search, but the one thread I found related mainly to drum
brakes and I have 2 discs up front.

The bike has only done 1200 miles (I bought it second hand at 912 miles)
and the squeaking has only started since it's been outside in the rain,
but it now squeaks even when it's been dry for a full day. The squeak
only starts as I'm near a stop (so below 10mph when braking from 40).

It still stops as it did before these started making a noise, so I was
wondering if it is likely to be something to do with having been outside
in the wet?

How likely is it to be a real problem this early in it's life, and what
is the best way to stop the noise?

Thanks in advance,

Wayne

 

I realise this is unusual, but here goes.

Take the pads out of both callipers and smear a little smeg (or copper-slip)
on the back of the pad and the anti-squeal shims. Re-instal. Ride.



--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

I would:

1. Take pads out and put to one side
2. Remove calipers from bike and apply liberal amounts of brake
cleaner
to remove all the shit from them
3. Without popping the pistons, pump the brake VERY SLOWLY just to
expose
the pistons by around 5mm, then smear with some coppa-slip
4. SLOWLY push the pistons back in place. Repeat 3 & 4 if the pistons
are
overly sticky or show difficultly in moving freely
5. Refit calipers and torque as per (Haynes) manual

That's the calipers done, now the pads:

6. Get a piece of sandpaper and lay it on a flat surface
7. Place pads on it (pad to sandpaper, obv!) and sand them lightly to
remove any traces of crap and glazing from them. This can be seen
as
a rainbow sheen at certain angles of light on the pad surface -
sand
until this is removed
8. Clean the backs (metal side) with a splash of brake cleaner then
give them a good smear of coppa-slip
9. Refit pads making sure you clean and smear coppa-slip on the
retaining
pin(s) as you go
10. Once refitted, give your brakes a good pump to get the pistons
back
in the right place - you don't want to be doing this at the first
junction you need to brake for!
11. Go out and ride it. Take it steady at first to re-bed the pads in.

HTH

 

antonye wrote:

I wouldn't do this. Coppa-slip is rumoured not to be good for some seals
(can make them expand). Castrol make a special red-rubber grease which
is ok for pistons.

 

The coppaslip shouldn't go anywhere near the seals if it's on the back
of the pads only. I don't use coppaslip on caliper bodies any more
since I found out how it damages brake seals. Wurth do sachets of
aluminium brake paste that are good, but I'm a red rubber grease
convert now.

--
Lozzo
Suzuki SV650S K5
Honda CBR600 FW trackbike
Yamaha SR250 Spazz-Trakka
Suzuki GSXR750 L
Suzuki TS50X
Suzuki TS50X

 

Correct.

Coppa (Copper) slip is great for the back of the pads and the mounting bolts
but not for the pistons.

No only can it chemically react with the seals but the seals need a
controlled amount of friction with the surface of the piston. It's this
grip that pulls the piston back very slightly as the seals recover when the
line pressure drops, i.e you let the brake off.

 

Erk - what's an anti-squeal shim ?

I've not got a HBOL for this beast yet

 

Thanks - sounds kinda complex. How long would this take a normal person
to do ? Just so I know to double it and use that as a best case scenario


So I'll be needing a torque wrench, brake cleaner and the castrol red
stuff someone mentioned. I take it most bike shops should have this
stuff?

 

A really thin piece of steel that sits abasck of the pad. You'll see it when
you pull the pads out, because they're usually "tabbed" to the pad.

Good man


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

It's an hours work to do all the pistons (sans copper-slip) not that they
should need ANY work, given the bike is low mileage and (I assume) not old
or been standing around for months not being used.

Not really. Just get the caliper bolts well nipped up.

Red grease. Designed so that it doesn't eat rubber. Important when you're
dealing with seals. (and whales presumably)

Most good ones, but that's not "most". A good motor factor should though,
even Halfrauds could stock it.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19