Stator CB750 DOHC

I have a 81 CB750 and I just purchased a new stator for it when I try
to get it in it is very tight and does not want to seat all the way am
I missing something is their some trick to getting it in all the way
or should I consider sending it back I purchased it from Dennis Kirk
it is made by Rick's Motorsport Electrics has anyone had this problem
before??????????????????????????????

 

I swapped one from one '82 cb750c to another, I don't remember any such
problem, but that was more than a year ago and I tend to forget details
pretty quickly. What'd I do is carefully compare the the new and old
stators and if I couldn't see a difference, measure them side to side,
front to back and so forth. Also find a parts explosion diagram to make
sure I had all parts, fasteners and washers pointing the right way.
Hopefully, there is no warpage of the case halves etc., if there were
I'd imagine the old stator might have distorted slightly too and its
shape might not compare to the new one. Oh, does the old stator slide
in nicely?

 

Yea it goes in alittle better but still kind of tight

 

It's possible you have the wrong rotor, but you'll have to do some
measuring.

Compare the internal taper of the old rotor to the new one. It would
help if you had a vernier caliper to measure the inside diameter of
the outer hole and the inner hole and the depth of the hole on both
old and new rotors.

Alternator rotors are mounted on the tapered stub end of the
crankshaft.

The taper is called a Morse taper. The taper of the shaft is about
half a degree different from the rotor so there is a very tight
interference fit once the parts are bolted together.

The Morse taper allows the rotor to be mounted to the end of the
crankshaft without using a Woodruff key.

Keys have been known to break and when they break, they chew up the
shaft.

Morse tapers are far from a perfect solution. They have their own way
of chewing up the end of the crankshaft as the rotor "walks" back and
forth during hard acceleration and deceleration.

Sometimes motorcycle manufacturers have trouble with the alternator
rotor slipping on the stub end of the crankshaft, so they change the
diameter of the stub, which means they have to get their suppliers to
change the rotor to fit the different sized crankshaft stub.

Good luck.

 

He's replaced the *stator*, not the *rotor*.

<snip the rest of the irrelevance>

 

I doubt it, since he's already said the rotor was shot aka "shoot" back
on Aug 14, so it's reasonable to assume he replaced it too.

He said while he had it apart he'd replace stator and brushes as well.
Assuming cost is not a big issue, with aged parts that might make
especial sense, as does the point about the taper, since the two parts
need to have accurate/consistent spacing between them.

 

What would rmt be like, without Old Nell?

 

Huh? Stator or rotor? Rotor rotates. Stator is, er, static. Or am I
missing something here?

Trouble is, the OP posts a different bloody thread each time.

 

God. Right. Why can't he keep everything in one thread?

 

I think it's alright, repairs have a haphazard way of making one
thinking the plan is good and then having to substitute a new plan. The
audience could try sticking to the subject too, at least when it's not
about political jabs, ie., not for laughs - I'd guess most of us are
more interested in seeing the bike's problem get fixed first.

 

Didja ever stop to think maybe he's hoping to find somebody who just
wants to *help* instead of a masterdebater?

 

He got rather more help from he than he did from you, but wtf.

Are you going to tell him his bike has two thirds of the weight on the
back wheel?

 

If he's as pear-shaped as you are, it does have 2/3 of the weight on
the suffering rear end...

 

Spagethorpe had originally designed the Pariah to work with
a counter-rotating stator driven by a planetary gear arrangement
but later abandoned this idea in favor of the higher voltage output
of a Van de Graaff unit.