Stuck Screws

If anyone has ever worked on an old, weathered bike, you've probably come
across the dreaded un-removable master cylinder screws. My XJ650 is in dire
need of some brake maintenance, but I can't remove the damned screws.

I've tried WD40, Penetrene and other similar agents, all to no avail. The
head of the screw (philips) still has a fair amount of "bite" left so I
still have options.

Does anyone have any ideas?

 

In aus.motorcycles on Mon, 5 Jul 2004 15:25:43 +1000

Got an impact driver? They are cheap enough to buy.

If that doesn't work, a drill and a very steady hand....

Zebee

 

If you still have something for the philips head to grab onto, then use an impact driver and hammer.
You don't have to bash shit out of it, just a few taps to loosen the screw enough to get a
screwdriver
to undo it without making things worse.

 

Valve grinding paste (in the screw slots). Stops the driver slipping.
And use an offset screwdriver or socket or similar to get some
torque on it..

Failing that, it's time for Mr. Drill or Mr. Dremel. Once the
screw heads come off, you can generally undo the threads with
pliers.

-----sharks

 

If anyone has ever worked on an old, weathered bike, you've probably come

Quite apt the last line....... from my old LC250, RZ500 & FZ750 I have come
across this kinda thing on numerous occasions. Was never beaten once.

First thing to do is to try and TIGHTEN the thing (just a little) to crack
the thread lock.
(Actually worked a couple of times)

Second was a few light taps on the back of the hammer as you twist

Third was a few fairly decent taps on the back of the hammer as you twist
(The most sucessful for screws not entirely rooted)

Fourth would have been an impact driver... but I never found a bit small
enough to fit the small screw

Fifth was a flathead the width of the phillips cross smacked in a few times
to make new "purchase"

Sixth was to do the fifth again and then use either the flathead or a
pointed drift tapped at 45degrees across the head and engaged in the slot,
and around in the direction of loosening.
(If Second failed then this more often than not worked))

Lastly and only once did I have to drill the thing out.... but i must have
been lucky, cos I used a driver-drill with a 2mm (?) bit and let the thing
"bite" and whacked it in reverese and the screw unwound. Maybe a Dremel
drill kinda thing without the drill flutes and use the drill in
reverse....??? May begin to drill and then "bite" and unscrew the
thing.....???

Good luck,
Gavern

 

Before you do anything too destructive, pop into your local "Supercheap"
store and get one of their nifty screwdriver sets. The one in question
consists of a set of assorted screwdriver bits with a chrome 'L'-shaped
handle and extension all attached to an orange plastic holder that can
hang on your belt.
About $7.

The L-shaped handle lets you get lots of leverage on the screwdriver
bits. I've used it to shift some very stubborn screws. You might want
to buy some better quality screwdriver bits for it. I have managed to
break one under stress (well, actually, it was Goaty).

The grinding paste trick is a beauty as well (although some fine
scrapings off wet and dry sanrpaper mixed with a little water might do
as well).

The problem with impact drivers in this sort of job is that the "impact"
needed to operate them might do irreparable damage to the item being
repaired.

Moike

 

Another option you can try is to heat the screw with a little pencil
torch, should come out fairly easy after that

 

Go down to a bargain shop and buy some eze out screws for about 10 bucks...

then drill the buggers out with a slow and cordless drill - they will just
pop out once you have a deep enough gap in the head..

then go find some screws to replace it with most bike shops have a
selection.. from 27c each

 

Not a wonder, most of us would be stressed to breaking under Goaty.

-----sharks

 

As Gavern said in one of his suggestions..
Tap the handle of the screw driver as you turn it. Works almost as good as
an impact driver....and is cheaper.

Eddie

 

Don't know if the L-shape handle is the same but a tool I've used
quite often at work is a Speed brace. The tightening method and paste
in the slotts definity have their merits as well. I've used another
great tool called a Gut-buster but I think it may be a little too big
for this job

__


Cheers
The Happy Drunk
K100RT

 

1) bash a slot in it with a flatblade.
2) drill the head off. (The rest generally unscrews quite easily)

 

Goaty under stress is not a pretty sight![1]

Cheers
Goaty
1. *I* wasn't the one who insisted on needlessly dismantling the trailer ...

 

Thanks to all who posted suggestions. This is the first time that I've ever
seen a question answered with so many serious and useful responses... (where
IS Hammo?).

In the end, the "bash it with a flatblade screwdriver" option worked. I did
the brake fluid change that I so desperately needed, and now have a nice,
stiff lever.

Thanks again.

 

Dr. Big Maggot is of the opinion:

It's important that your lever is always stiff.

- Matt

 

......
~
[smug look]
Clem

 

youll be lucky if you get an intelligent answer out of this lot

 

Feeling a little silly are we?

You really should read the other responses before you vent your pathetic
little spleen.

Moike

(is it still harsh week?)

 

although there was my reply to sardo that I attached to Dr Big's
post..... that's pretty silly.

Moike

 

Caught your post later moike.