Stupid Motorcycle Chain Lube Question

OKay, I'm fairly certain I've been lubing my chain incorrectly. I've
watched quite a few YouTube Clips, and I know most of what I need to
know. Like not spraying it on the outside of the chain.

The one question I have, is when spraying on the lube, where should I
be aiming to make contact. None of the clips I've seen go into that,
and the advice I've gotten from those that I know that ride has been
contradictory.

I was initially aiming vertically between the roller plates and pin
plates. Some have said you work on the rollers, and let the sprockets
move it aside. Others have said you aim for the inside of the opposite
roller plates where the rollers join the plate.

Can anyone advise, or point to a good guide to doing this?

Morgan Vening

 

don't... chains come lubed out of the packet.. you are wasting money
on chain lube

clean it, a little WD40 and keep it tensioned

mh

 

lift onto the centre stand and the inside of the chain whilst spinning
the rear wheel >job done

 

The online site Motocyclistonline says, in an interview with a guy named
PJ Harvey (yes, really!) who makes chain lube:

" MC: If an O-ring chain lube doesn't need to get lubricant past the O-
rings and inside the chain, what does it do for the chain then?
PJH: It keeps the chain from rusting, it lubricates the O-ring itself and
it does provide some cushion effect between the chain roller and the
sprocket, which reduces wear on the sprockets and increases the chain's
life. "

He didn't mention the quantum mechanical effect of the chain lube, which,
if applied strictly in accordance with the manufacturer's directions,
will extend the life of a single bike chain to millennia. [1]

--
Regards

Andrew

[1] The directions usually say to spray it on the rollers.

 

spinning the rear wheel >job done

Useful word added.

 

It would be easier to tip it over onto its handlebars and seat, just like a
pushie.
Then you can oil the chain to your hearts content

 

O-ring/X-ring chains already have internal lube there... that's why I
point the chain lube at the inside of the chain where the chain rubs
against the sprockets.


G-S

 

Ok I made a misstake

 

You only have to give ther back sprocket a squirt and the lubricant will do
the whole chain after a few revolutions

 

May I make a suggestion where your DUckhams might be stored ?

 

I think you'll find Nev.. is being provocative, G.S. Just a feeling I
have. [1]

--
Regards

Andrew

[1] I find it easier to aim at the gap between the chain and the *front*
sprocket. Some disassembly required, but.

 

Life's a full-on mistake for you, Bazza.

 

You really are a little ray of sunshine Raymond

 

Yes, aren't I.

At least, unlike you, I can string together words in English that people can
understand.

Have a great day, Barry Edwin Chu****; when are you starting those remedial
English classes?

And you have said many times you have me kill filed (though I knew you
hadn't), you lying POS.

 

I beg to differ. On a CT110 doing mostly junk mail runs an O-ring chain
definitely lasts longer lubed even only every 1000Km than one that doesn't
get touched. Old one was stuffed inside a year. This one's gone 2 so far
and has hardly moved up the adjustment scale.

BTW, the Bel Ray aerosol lube can for one has pretty good directions on it.

 

Sorry. That should have addressed Marty H & not Andrew. Snooze time
perhaps....

 

Oh glly gosh
you have a name
now what raymond ?

not all kill files kill file all groups shushine

 

Yes, she did. She's 92 years old now and still jokes about it. And I
wonder who you got that info from (LOL) though it's not completely correct,
either. My full first name is just Ray, not Raymond. But whatever, many
people on Usenet know who I am, I don't keep my info a secret as you try
(unsuccessfully) to do.

Yet another error from you? Did you mean the childish comment "golly gosh"?

I have your address, phone numbers, PO and box number (83*), ham radio
call-sign (VK4*G*), birth date */*/1947, the full name of a certain sheila
you know very well. Plus much more.
You dared me once, a number of years ago, to get personal info on you and
post it. I had all the info within a few hours, but I regard it as
unethical to post *full* info (except enough to prove to you I have the
info). Some of the info I have may be obsolete now, but I just can't be
bothered checking for updates if indeed there are any.

"shushine"? Shit, Bazza, you never heard of a spell checker or are you
just pissed (or both)?

 

You need to be specific about road/dirt bike, type of chain, and it's
operating environment. There's always someone who'll tell you "just
do ... and she'll be alright!"

I tried Googling Motorcycle Chain Maufacturers to see if they had any
advice.

From http://www.ekchain.com/faqs.htm...

The O-rings... only seal the factory-installed grease between the pins
and bushings. As with any chain, you still need to lubricate between
the bushings and rollers to prolong service life. (nb: use
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roller_chain for parts terminology).

"Sealed chains should be lubed only with lubricants specifically
marked as being suitable for O-ring chains. A good chain lube should
adhere well and have good penetrating qualities to get deep inside the
spaces between bushings and rollers. Non-sealed chains may be lubed
with any quality chain lube, or SAE 80/90 wt. oil." So, by their
reasoning, I am doing it wrong at the moment. I use a squirt of
engine oil in a chain-oiler 2-3 times a week, and once every two
weeks, I lift up the rear of the motorcycle using a paddock stand, run
it in gear and squirt WD40 on to the edge of the entire chain (i.e.
the rollers, 8 <-, from about 2" away ) for the entire chain length.
It makes no difference to the life of the chain*, 18,000 km, because
it always gets replaced on the third service in my experience. Chains
don't last as well in winter, do you ride in all weather, all year, or
only on dry weekends?

* Alright, it does make a difference. I once wrecked a good chain in
only a couple of months using that Bel Ray white wax stuff. It turns
out it was recommended for dirt bikes only, not road bikes. It
doesn't penetrate (too waxy for a road bike) but it does pick up grit
and turn to a grinding paste. I think it would've lasted longer if I
had allowed it to simply rust.

 

Followup:
http://www.quality-cycle.com/truth_about_motorcycle_chains.htm
Search for "How to Correctly Lube your Chain!" and remember: five
exclamation marks is supposed to be a sure sign of insanity!!!!!