Suspension woes...

Can anyone recomend anyone in Sydney to take my TLR too to get her to
handle?!. Everyone has told me to junk the rear rotary suspension getup, so
I replaced it with an Ohlins and that didn't help (+7 seconds round Eastern
Creek! ) ... I'm pretty sure my problem is my weight is out of the
suspension's working range...(both the front and the rear, I'm too dam
light!).

Anyone got a ball park figure of how much it's going to cost too, to get the
works? (new springs, gold (=brass?)-valved etc..)

-Chad.

 

I'm pretty sure my problem is my weight is out of the >suspension's working range...(both the front and the rear, I'm too dam light!).

then you should have got a spring on your ohlins to suit your
weight... They ask shit like that when you order

 

I know, I'm hooked on everything *but* they way it handles. It seems like I
can get it perfect, then the situation changes (road gets bumpy\smoothes
out\speeds up) and it all goes to hell.. I am deffinatly on the light side,
barely breaking 60kg.

Well if this doesn't fix it, unfortunatly the TL will be going up for sale,
as much as I love her, she's going to spit me into the weeds I think if I
keep trying to *force* her to turn...

-Chad

 

working range...(both the front and the rear, I'm too dam light!).

Purchase was second hand, the spring feels lighter then the original one,
the rear suspension wouldn't budge when I hopped on it before, but yes I
agree, I need new springs...!

-Chad.

 

working range...(both the front and the rear, I'm too dam light!).

Bullshit they do!

 

Vulture the Great or Biggus the Vulture?

Aaron
ZX6R

 

i dunno how u'd go with the front springs if needed (maybe progressive or
such), but i once had a good experience with having a rear spring made for a
koni on a k100 cos i couldnt get a lighter one genuine...i put a scale under
the back wheel and weighed the whole effect of bike and rider, then took off
10% and got a spring maker to wind appropriate spring...cost a hunnert
dollars or so and worked marvellously

 

I had rear ohlins on my TLR and front end was revalved also with ohlin
springs (way i bought the bike)
After i played with the settings i was very happy with the handling, i was
never able to compare
it to a stock TLR as i never had chance to ride a TLR with a rotary rear
shock. I also had ohlins
damper on it as well. Only track i rode it on was Broadford, tight and
technical, and i was able
to outride someone on a gsxr 1000 with similiar skills on a bike.. i think
to do the forks
you could be look at around $600-1000 depending on what you want done.

Paul
03 - R1
96 Gixxer 750

 

You have me curious about my K100's suspension now. I weigh in at
around 60KG wringing wet and find the rear end of the bike to bounce
and feel very stiff. Other riders have commented on how it looks
"twitchy" when they have riden behind me. I must say there have bee
times when I've been less than confident with it's handling but have
just put it down to rider.

Should I be looking into suspension options?
__


Cheers
The Happy Drunk
K100RT

 

I've not used him but apparently Terry Hays "Shock treatment" is pretty good -
there's another guy in that area Al Pennykid knows who's supposed to be pretty
good as well.

JL

 

Yep, you should

 

The rear on my k100 , and Im heavy was twitchy when purchased.. now with
a Boge gas shock and a lighter spring , about 30 kg softer is good...
cornering is better and it doesn't shake my back fillings out,
also have a good think about the front end. is it soft or hard ?. is it
damping or like mine needed progressive springs..

 

You deal with the wrong places then.

Ohlins and Whitepower I ran for yrs, always asked what weight rider..
Although Whitepower distrubuter in Melb yrs ago sent me a VF750 shock
for a TT600...

 

yes, i found the std shock to be well sprung but underdamped so i got the
koni, which was oversprung and made the back end very hard, so a new spring
was made...the front got 'progressive' springs cos it was very soggy, and 15
wt oil...the end result was quite nice, with the rear damped well and
adjustable from too soft to hard enuf to support a pillion and gear. the
k100's handle quite well once set up proper like but are subject to
wallowing and carrying on in high speed corners where the road undulates, a
bumpy corner seems to be ok but they dont like 'waves' in the road...a fork
brace helps in this regard, but i found i could not use the 'clamp' type as
it squoze the top of the fork leg too much, an aluminium one was made to
attach on mudguard mounts...also tyres, a michelin radial front and
conventional pirelli? rear worked well...top cornering speed was still
limited to about 160 kph in sweepers before chassis flex took over, but in
tight cornering it startled many a sport rider who thought a 'big heavy
tourer' should have been much further behind.

 

Thanks guys. it looks like I need to do some homework

__


Cheers
The Happy Drunk
K100RT

 

IDEA!! measure outside diameter of shock body...get thick walled pipe with
id to match od...cut 20 mm off pipe, cut in half, compress spring, put in
pieces of pipe, secure with hose clamp, release spring...now much harder,
cost...about $3.50...

 

Errm that only increases the preload it does NOT change the compression rate of
the spring. Even the most primitive of bikes has preload.

Oh, and you'll decrease your suspension travel while you're at it...

JL

 

<sigh> Welcome to usenet. You post an answer THEN ask what was the question ?
Sheesh !

JL