Tank and tap cleaning

The tank on the R65 is full of crap. I don't think the tank itself is
rotten, just the filler cap which seems to have turned to rust.

What's the best way to flush it out?

And anyone know if BMW fuel taps are dismantleable/ rebuildable or
should i just buy another one (as that's so full of crap I merely get a
dribble out of it)?

 

Just read the FAQ.

Panda Cola

 

Probably OK in many cases, but it wasn't up to de-gunging the old Puch
Gran Prix moped tank resurrected for the Forgotten Error. TBF that had
been sitting nearly empty in an old leaky greenhouse[1] for 10 years.

Had to go the full POR15 refurbishment route (marine-clean etc.). Very
satisfied with the reults though.

[1] Which is at long last 'down' - well the glass and timber bit. To my
astonishment I had 5 freecyclers after the panes of glass that were
still usable and the local Civic Amenities site accepted what wasn't.
They told me to put it in the burnable container which seemed odd, but
presumably it just ends up in the incinerator ash.
--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Gilera Nordwest * 2 Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

Did you use "diet"?

 

Ha. No, just the cheapest nastiest cola I could buy, but not so much
sugar but loads of phosphoric acid ought to work better in theory.
--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Gilera Nordwest * 2 Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

I noticed you found the FAQ'd method but check first if it's the tank's
internal coating that is flaking off. I've had this on at least one
airhead and it's a pain in the backside and might be mistaken for rust
because the coating has a 'rusty' colour to it. If it's the coating
you're looking at some sort of mechanical removal of the flaky bits as
the brown fizzy drink won't really help with that.

I think they are rebuildable.

 

<AOL>

It's a red lead coating, IIRC.

 

If you have a cement mixer....

 

Thus spake The Older Gentleman () unto the assembled multitudes:

They can be rented from plant-hire firms, though might work out pretty
expensive for just a day.

 

Doesn't everyone? It's on my list of must-haves.

 

It's certainly red paint, and a PITA.

I'm going the POR15 route with mine, as I'm fed up with petrol all over
my boots, etc. The taps have rather coarse gauze filters up inside the
tank, meaning big enough pieces get through to stop the float valves
closing.

There was discussion on this recently. If you've got red bits in the
float bowls, you've got the same problem.

By the way, IIRC, one of the taps, I think the RH one, is LH thread onto
the tank (R80RT '86). Go carefully.

Sherlocks have these parts listed:

Petrol Taps
Complete Taps
109557 Vertical feed, complete, Karcoma 23.00
109113 Horizontal feed, complete, c/w filter, LHS 19.55
109114 Horizontal feed, complete, c/w filter, RHS 19.55
Parts
109085 Petrol tap rebuild kit, Karcoma 6.32
109368 Internal filter, Karcoma, within tap itself 1.96
109516 Internal filter, Germa, within tap itself 2.30
109518 Germa tap cap, with on / off written 1.96
109367 Karcoma tap cap, with on / off written 1.96
109110 Filter, in petrol tank, shrouds pipes 3.45
109061 Tap to tank washer 0.28
109366 Petrol pipe connector, grey plastic at tap 1.47

I don't know what's in the 'rebuild kit' -- give 'em a ring?

 

It's not tank lining. I'm going to break out the panda cola this weekend.

Unless the cola will mess up the tank lining that is...

Which is good. I think blowing the crap out should do it though.

 

Hmm, thinks: The R80 is marginal at speed with both taps and a full
tank, i.e. one tap per 400cc (ish). One tap for 650cc sounds not good to
me. Having had to do a head rebuild after a carb diaphragm failed and
the mixture on one pot went lean, I'd want a really good fuel flow.

I suppose it could be a different, bigger, tap. The Clymer manual lists
(and has diagrams for) four different types. The first one looks like it
might have better flow.

 

Don't be daft.

Unless it's blocked, each tap will flow way more than the needs of the
engine.

There's 2 on some bikes for convenience/range, that's all.

 

Well if you run this R80 on one tap, it noticeably affects the engine.
Could be crud in the tank, it's true, but the route through the tap
isn't very wide (I've had them apart in the past). If the area was that
of the pipe, or even the pipe spigots, it would be fine, but inside the
tap I don't think it's close to that.

Not in this case, although obviously it lets you get all the fuel when
the level goes below the saddle.

The Airheads list covered this extensively in the past, also the pros
and cons of fitting in-line filters.

 

Actually, not necessarily. Some bikes really do need the double flow -
Morinis, for one, and my old airhead boxer needed both taps open if you
were really going for it.

 

I do, it doesn't.

YAMV [1]

[1] Your Airhead May Vary

 

In communiqué <1j1i0mb.16eqik11jycsneN%>,

Eh? The original Morini 350 had an electronic main tap with a separate
manual reserve. I never noticed any issues with mine.

TBF though, I always opened both taps on the 250/375 (each having a
reserve position).

The Forgotten Error seems happy with just one, but then it doesn't spend
long on full throttle.


--
+----------------------------------------------------------------+
| Pete Fisher at Home: |
| Voxan Roadster Gilera Nordwest * 2 Yamaha WR250Z |
| Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 Morini 350 "Forgotten Error" |
+----------------------------------------------------------------+

 

Gyp rides very slowly, so his fuelling requirements are slight.

 

Thank you!