Tight spot...

Anyone had any adverse experiences with tight spots on bike chains?

Apart from making a horrible racket (it didn't to start with, but it is
now), is it really likely to go bang?

 

Yep, had a tight spot on the fatblade chain. It suddenly went from a
clicking to a banging noise luckily at low speed. The sideplate had sheared
off and was catching on the chain guard.

Buy a new chain.

 

Last time I had a bad tight spot, I took it into the dealers to find I
had a collapsed rear wheel bearing.

I had a little moment as I realised I'd been flying to and fro on the
NCR to work for over a week with it!

 

I've already got the bike booked in for a replacement on the 9th Sept
(I did this last Sat). It was the earliest I could do.

At the moment, I'm using the cage, which whilst okay this week, is
going to be a pig next week when the holidays finish and France opens
for business.

 

Nah, I'm not going to take the risk. The last ride will be a slow one
to the bike shop (about 4km away).

 

Among other things, it's likely to **** up the output shaft of your gearbox.


--
Beav

VN 750
Zed 1000
OMF# 19

 

Safe to do 80 MPH on then. Just ask Bonwick (senior)

P.

 

Tension chain at said tight spot. Use bike

 

I've heard this before. How the bloody hell do I look for a tight spot?
:-/

 

it's the bit where the chain's tight, you thick ****.

I'm going to have to explain, aren't I?

Put the bike on its mainstand, with the back wheel of the ground.
Rotate the wheel by hand and check the travel in the lower run of
chain every 10cm or so. When you find a point in the chain's rotation
where the travel is least, this is the place where you adjust the
tension.

 

I'm used to shafties. The GSX is the first bike in over 8 years that
I've had as a chain drive.

<fx: continued YTC mode>

I take it that when I find the spot, I tension the chain without moving
the tight spot to the RHS of main sprocket?

 

Yes - think about it. Where the chain's feeling tightest is where you
want to adjust it so it's the "right" tension at that spot, because
otherwise, by definition, the tension at the tight spot would be too
tight.

I can't believe I'm having to explain this.

 

I can't believe you're explaining it too.

 

that's all your getting on this subject.

Though I can't believe you're taking technical motorbike advice from
someone who didn't realise his front wheel was nearly flat.

Note to Champ and others, yes, there was only 11psi in the front wheel
of my 'blade, and yes, the handling issues went away when I put air in
it. Oddly, the rear was OK and still had 40psi in it.

 

Strangely enough my front wheel is round and contains very little (if
any) air.

My front type OTOH is at about 28psi.

Phil

 

Ha. Smartarse in hoisted-on-own-petard shocker.

 

Doh!

<Flailing around in wild defense mode>

I was only following the Usenet norm!

</FAIWDM>

Phil

 

Double-ha. Faux-smartarse drowns in own irony. Full report on page 8.

 

Christ on a crutch. Darsy dishing out maintenance advice.

Go for it. It's good practice anyway and if it's wrong it's someone
else's skin. Win/win I call it.

 

We know all about your type, mate.