Time for a new clutch rehash

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Malc, Sep 3, 2010.

  1. Malc

    Malc Guest

    Before I rip it apart this weekend any further advice form the
    assembled multitude?

    Chain and sprockets checked and are fine
    Cush drive ok
    Oil changed and exactly halfway up the sightglass
    Clutch cable changed and adjusted as per Haynes BoL (2mm free play on
    clutch lever)

    The clutch is now lighter to operate but still graunches going into
    gear. It's noticeably worse when the engine is cold. When going into
    1st from a standstill the bike still jumps forward a bit and now
    there's a tad more slack in the clutch cable it seems worse than it
    did before. There was almost no free play in the old cable.
     
    Malc, Sep 3, 2010
    #1
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  2. Malc

    Krusty Guest

    At a guess, either the mechanism that transfers the cable 'pull' to the
    clutch rod 'push' is worn, or the basket's notched.
     
    Krusty, Sep 3, 2010
    #2
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  3. Malc

    Ace Guest

    Have you tried _tightening_ the cable? If it's dragging like that, and
    is worse with the "correct" adjustment, it might be worth giving it a
    try. Clearly, if it then slips under power it's no good, but you may
    be able to find a point at which it's neither dragging nor slipping to
    any noticeable degree.

    Gotta be worth a try, I reckon.
     
    Ace, Sep 3, 2010
    #3
  4. Malc

    Malc Guest

    It has crossed what passes for my mind to give that a go. I didn't
    want to knacker the thrust bearing by leaving it under load.
     
    Malc, Sep 3, 2010
    #4
  5. Malc

    malc Guest

    Tried it, not much difference. I tried to take the clutch cover off this
    afternoon. 6 out of the 9 (or thereabouts) bolts came out easily 3 were
    tight and one snapped off. At which ppoint I chickened out before I snapped
    the other tight ones. Didn't take much pressure to snap it either. Literally
    just using an 8mm socket on a screwdriver. I read somewhere on the
    interwibble that Kawasakis have a positive neutral thingummy which can get
    jammed up. It might explain the awful 1st to 2nd shift when the engine's
    cold.


    --
    Malc

    Rusted and ropy.
    Dog-eared old copy.
    Vintage and classic,
    or just plain Jurassic:
    all words to describe me.
     
    malc, Sep 4, 2010
    #5
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