Time for a new clutch?

The gearchange on the ZZR is somewhat less smooth than it used to be. When I
change up it feels like the clutch isn't disengaging completely. Changing
down seems ok at the moment. I had Frazers look at the adjustment (such as
it is) when the bike had its MOT yesterday and they say the adjustment's
fine so if there is clutch drag it's probably the plates.

So do I change the friction plates (£36 for EBC ones) and the springs (£8)
or should I go for the whole kit (springs, pressure plates and friction
plates) for about £108?


--
Malc

Rusted and ropy.
Dog-eared old copy.
Vintage and classic,
or just plain Jurassic:
all words to describe me.

 

Silly question, given that it's just had an MoT, but are you sure the
chain is correctly adjusted and lubed? Makes a difference.

Get OE plates and springs: they really aren't much pricier and they're
almost certainly better. Don't bother with the steel plates, no.

 

googling confirms a distant memory of a common ZZR problem
http://www.zzr-international.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=484
Have you checked the cush drive before blaming the clutch?

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, malc

Have you checked the chain tension lately? How old is the chain?

 

Good call.

 

Ginge!

 

Never taken a ZZR apart, but in general take a close look at the edges
of the clutch basket. The plate lugs wear indentations into the basket
edges which eventually makes them catch and bind.

 

Don't bother replacing the cush drive rubbers, just pack out any
sloppiness with strips of leather. I've done this on all three of my
ZZR11s and repacked cush drives last longer than new ones.

--
Lozzo
Versys 650 Tourer, CBR600F-W racebike in the making, TS250C, RD400F
(somewhere)
BMW E46 318iSE (it's a car, not one of those 2-wheeled pieces of shite
they churn out)

 

that forum suggests strips of old inner tube as an alternative. Not
everyone has bits of old Jag seats lying around...

 

I must admit I haven't checked the adjustment. It is well lubed though.

OK thanks


--
Malc

Rusted and ropy.
Dog-eared old copy.
Vintage and classic,
or just plain Jurassic:
all words to describe me.

 

It feels like as I change gear the cogs aren't lining up properly. A bit
like a worn syncromesh would in a cage. Doesn't really seem like cush drive
or chain to me (but I open to persuasion). If I'm in neutral and tap it into
first the bike nudges forward a tad.

--
Malc

Rusted and ropy.
Dog-eared old copy.
Vintage and classic,
or just plain Jurassic:
all words to describe me.

 

as it only takes a few minutes to check & 0p to fix the Lozzo way it would
be prudent to check

 

Of course

--
Malc

Rusted and ropy.
Dog-eared old copy.
Vintage and classic,
or just plain Jurassic:
all words to describe me.

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, The Older

Mere reinforcement.

 

I'll have a look at the chain and what have you in the next couple of days.
If that doesn't do it then I'll drop you a line

--
Malc

Rusted and ropy.
Dog-eared old copy.
Vintage and classic,
or just plain Jurassic:
all words to describe me.

 

I did it with my pal's SV 650 (close to 50,000 miles) coz it seems that he's
not mastered the use of blipping the throttle on down changes and it fucks
the chain and sprox up every 15,000 miles, so it's hammering **** out of the
cush drive rubber.

I didn't use leather though, I used plastic shims cut from a packet of bog
spreaders. He wanted to buy a new cush drive, but I wouldn't let him coz I'd
be looking at the problem again pretty soon if he had, but now I know it'll
last for as long as he's got the bike.

 

A couple of 2 litre empty plastic milk "bottles" will provide enough shim
material to do the job, or a packet of bog (body filler) spreaders from your
local paint shop will do an even better job.

 

OK. I've checked and tighened the chain which made a slight difference to
the clunk when engaging gear from neutral but had no effect on the graunch.
Checked the cush drive which appears to be perfect, serpently no slop.

A quick investigation at work today with a colleague who does a lot of his
own bike maintenance didn't really show anything. If you take the oil filler
cap off and look at the clutch there doesn't appear to be any wear on the
cage edges and the clutch plates move about 2 or 3 mm when you pull the
lever. Oddly enough if you run the engine the clutch appears quiet until you
pull in the lever then you get a whine from the clutch which you can only
hear with the filler cap off.

Looks like a cover off job. I was going to tackle it tonight but can't find
my Blue Hylomar in case the gasket needs a repair.

--
Malc

Rusted and ropy.
Dog-eared old copy.
Vintage and classic,
or just plain Jurassic:
all words to describe me.

 

what about changing the oil?

On my NX650 the gear change used to get horrible if I stuck to the 4000
mile interval recommended by Honda. I started doing a 2000 mile change and
that improved matters.

Lozzo might be able to advise if a particular viscosity of oil suited the
ZZR better.

 

I used to use Motul semi synth 10W40, the stuff Gericke had on offer
with free filters. Never had cause to change from that.

--
Lozzo
Versys 650 Tourer, CBR600F-W racebike in the making, TS250C, RD400F
(somewhere)
BMW E46 318iSE (it's a car, not one of those 2-wheeled pieces of shite
they churn out)