TUbliss rimlocks: Any experiences with them?

Discussion in 'Motorbike Technical Discussion' started by User Bp, Feb 2, 2015.

  1. User Bp

    User Bp Guest

    Is anybody willing to report first-hand experience with TUbliss
    pneumatic rimlocks? http://nuetech.com/tubliss/#performance ?

    The idea seems good, but most of the online
    references I can find have a distinctly promotional feel. I'd
    like to find some less flashy endorsements if they exist.

    I'm not particularly interested in low pressure operation but
    am very much interested in puncture resistance and ease of

    Thanks for reading,

    bob prohaska
    User Bp, Feb 2, 2015
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  2. User Bp

    Mark Olson Guest

    I haven't used this and I have only had a taste of riding on
    dirt, a couple of weeks off road last September in the western

    What bike, type of riding, terrain, etc.?
    Mark Olson, Feb 2, 2015
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  3. User Bp

    IdaSpode Guest

    You might try http://www.thumpertalk.com/ for some first hand

    IdaSpode, Feb 2, 2015
  4. User Bp

    Mark Olson Guest

    Mark Olson, Feb 2, 2015
  5. No experience with this particular product, but there are
    numerous conversion options out there:



    The BMW GS comes with tubeless spoked wheels and I definitely like
    the ability to plug a punctured tire. The advrider method shown
    above using goop certainly looked intriguing and it's clearly
    low cost. The only person I know of who did this conversion sent
    the wheel off to a shop to have it done.

    In short, a tubeless conversion looks like a good idea but I'd
    research the various different methods of accomplishing it.
    Rob Kleinschmidt, Feb 2, 2015
  6. User Bp

    User Bp Guest

    Eventually I found a thread at
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560599 and
    read all 30 pages of it. Oddly enough, I'm still on the fence.
    The bulk of problems seem to be air loss, either in the lock
    bladder or between the inner "tire" and road tire. Basically
    installation issues. But, issues are issues, and I'm not exempt.

    Never had a flat on my tubeless bikes, but I carry a plug kit
    on both. Several flats on both tubed bikes, but they all happend
    in the garage, basically from me leaving rimlock holes unplugged.
    I'm very glad they were discovered at (or very close to) home.

    Fixing a tube in the field isn't something I look forward to and
    I marvel at the folks who replace tubes on the trail. Hard enough
    in the garage to suit me :cool:

    Schemes that try to seal the tire to the rim look utterly hopeless:
    The DRZ400s has radial grooves to make the rim bite the bead,
    making a good seal out of the question even if the spoke holes are

    BMW did it right, but at very high cost from what I've read, both
    for purchase and repair. Nobody else seems to use the scheme, despite
    apparent superiority.

    Sounds like nobody here has tried it, maybe I'll have to be the
    guinea pig.

    Thanks for reading,

    bob prohaska
    User Bp, Feb 3, 2015
  7. User Bp

    Doug Payne Guest

    A caveat on sealing spoke nipples to create a 'tubeless' rim.

    Be sure that the rim has a bead groove that is capable of holding and
    sealing a tubeless tire. Not all do.
    Doug Payne, Feb 3, 2015
  8. Absolutely !!
    Rob Kleinschmidt, Feb 6, 2015
  9. User Bp

    User Bp Guest

    (crossposted to rec.motorcycles.dirt in hopes of enlightenment)
    The TuBliss scheme seems to get around the need for a safety rim. The
    inner liner expands against the inside of the bead, sealing it and
    clamping it against the rim. The air seal is between the TuBliss liner
    and the inside of the bead, so a sealing rim isn't needed at all.

    If the tire goes flat it behaves like a safety-rim tubeless tire, if
    the TuBliss goes flat it's no worse (which is to say very bad) than
    a flat conventional tube.

    Two things give pause. Wrestling tires onto the rims is a bit of a
    struggle, so damage to the TuBliss is a worry. Air leakage is another
    concern. The Tubliss liner has to seal around the entire cicumference of
    both tire beads. The local pressure is only about 50 lbs per inch of bead.
    Accumulated around an 18 inch rim that's ample clamp force. Locally, the
    surfaces have to be very clean and smooth to seal reasonably well. I kinda
    wonder just how hard it is to get a seal that's rideable for a week or two.

    Thanks for reading,

    bob prohaska
    User Bp, Feb 7, 2015
  10. In this photo of a BMW wheel after an accident, the rim and
    spokes were amazingly effective in transmitting the force of
    an impact. Trashed everything else in sight, but the rim and
    spokes were unscathed.

    Rob Kleinschmidt, Feb 8, 2015
  11. User Bp

    User Bp Guest

    Looks like a fork leg, a broken axle and a broken disk hub.
    Any information on what happened? Might not be the wheel's
    fault :cool:

    bob prohaska
    User Bp, Feb 8, 2015
  12. User Bp

    Mark Olson Guest

    I was thinking the same thing, how on earth could the rim stay
    undamaged, after having transmitted enough force to break the
    Mark Olson, Feb 8, 2015
  13. Motorcycle vs. Mercedes. The 73 year old driver "didn't see
    the motorcycle but was driving really slowly and carefully"
    when he made the left turn across my path.

    Having later had a chance to observe Asian driving protocol,
    I realize that the accident was partly my fault for failing
    to continuously beep my horn while traveling through an
    Rob Kleinschmidt, Feb 8, 2015
  14. While the tubeless tire was still holding air afterwards, the
    rim was very definitely out of true.
    Rob Kleinschmidt, Feb 8, 2015
  15. User Bp

    Mark Olson Guest

    Mark Olson, Feb 8, 2015
  16. Well since you asked :), I think spoked wheels would fall into
    two classes:

    wagon wheel (spokes and hub in compression, rim under tension ?)


    bicycle wheel (spokes and hub under tension, while the rim would
    seem to be in compression)

    I believe the bicycle wheel distributes loads across multiple spokes
    while the wagon wheel does not. In this case, the tension spoke design
    seems to have done a remarkably good job of distributing impact force
    all around the rim and transmitting all the force via the spokes down
    to the hub, axle, and forks.

    There was apparently some side force as well, as the axle snapped right
    next to one fork leg. Per the accident report, I was busy rolling across
    the hood of the car and down the street, so I was unable to observe this
    in detail.
    Rob Kleinschmidt, Feb 9, 2015
  17. User Bp

    User Bp Guest

    Glad you survived the encounter, hope the damage isn't
    Just out of curiosity, were you running a headlight modulator?
    It's likely the guy could see, his hearing seems less certain.

    bob prohaska
    User Bp, Feb 9, 2015
  18. User Bp

    Mark Olson Guest

    You're giving the average motorist far, far too much credit.
    Mark Olson, Feb 9, 2015
  19. Forks, wheel hub, front axle front engine casing and frame.
    Every damn thing but the spoked rim and tubeless tire
    Having observed traffic in his homeland, I've come to believe they
    drive more by echo location than anything else. In another Asian
    country, I'd expressed concern that the chain on a rental bike was
    about to expire. The guide said he wasn't worried about the chain
    but insisted the bike go back to the shop because the horn wasn't
    working properly. How else would you warn oncoming traffic that
    they were seconds away from a head on ?

    I have since then added lots of lights to the replacement bike, but
    I'm not optimistic. I trust my loud(ish) pipes more, 'cause you
    can't be hearing in a different direction.
    Rob Kleinschmidt, Feb 9, 2015
  20. User Bp

    User Bp Guest

    In case anybody's curious, the TuBliss inserts are installed and appear to
    hold air reasonably well. Not clear yet how they compare with tubes.

    One very great surprise was the tightness of the new tires on the rim. The
    rear 120/80-18 rear required about 50 psi to fully seat. The front 90/90-21
    required very close to 80 psi. Once seated and allowed to stretch for a day
    they will re-seat somewhere around sidewall pressure. Most likely, after a
    month or two the beads will remain seated when deflated entirely.

    I wrote to Avon asking what "normal" bead seat pressure should be, but have
    so far gotten no useful answer. Twice sidewall pressure seems reasonable,
    but three times strikes me as a prudent upper limit. The front came closer
    than I like.

    Does anybody have reliable numbers, from any manufacturer?

    Thanks for reading,

    bob prohaska
    User Bp, Mar 8, 2015
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