Tyres. Front tyres.

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Wicked Uncle Nigel, Apr 9, 2010.

  1. No, not a "which one" thread. More of a "when?" thread.

    Look, this is a little embarrassing...

    OK, modern front tyres don't have a whole hell of a lot of tread to
    begin with. And I have real trouble deciding what's legal, and what's
    not when they get worn.

    My front tyres tend to "feather" in that the individual tread blocks
    wear on the leading corner, so I end up with a tyre that looks pretty
    worn and pretty new at the same time.

    So how do you judge when it needs changing?
    Wicked Uncle Nigel, Apr 9, 2010
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  2. Wicked Uncle Nigel

    Ace Guest

    Same as it ever was - if there's still some rubber covering the canvas
    there's still some life left.
    Ace, Apr 9, 2010
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  3. Wicked Uncle Nigel

    YTC#1 Guest

    Canvas !

    Pah !
    YTC#1, Apr 9, 2010
  4. As I understand it, only the part of the tyre that has a wear indicator
    is measurable.[1]

    So if the outer most edge is wearing, but all the treat indicators
    still have plenty of wear left to go, you're okay. Unless you break
    through to canvas and/or steel.

    [1] if you look at some of the big, no, BIG, tyres for Lambos and the
    like, they are virtually slicks on the outer 2 inches when new.
    doetnietcomputeren, Apr 9, 2010
  5. Wicked Uncle Nigel

    ginge Guest

    With the ZRX it's when the bars start to wiggle at 35mph because the
    tyre is so scooped.

    With the 10R it's when they're about half worn, because I transfered
    the last half used front over to the ZRX and stuck a fresh one on.
    ginge, Apr 9, 2010
  6. Wicked Uncle Nigel

    ogden Guest

    I tend to have mine replaced as a set, and the rear always wears out
    first. I know I could save a few quid by stringing the front along a bit
    longer but it hardly seems worth the effort.
    ogden, Apr 9, 2010
  7. Wicked Uncle Nigel

    ogden Guest

    You understand wrong.

    It has to be within limits for a continuous unbroken area covering 3/4
    (I think) of the width of the tyre. That is to say it can't be within
    wear limits for the 1/4 nearest the edge on one side and the whole of
    the other side, but it can be fucked for the quarter nearest the edge on
    one side.
    ogden, Apr 9, 2010
  8. Wicked Uncle Nigel

    Ace Guest

    Yebbut, these days they're all tubeless, innit?
    Ace, Apr 9, 2010
  9. So tell me how that works on this:



    that there is no measurable tread on the outer 1/3rd of the tyre when new.
    doetnietcomputeren, Apr 9, 2010
  10. Wicked Uncle Nigel

    Andy Bonwick Guest

    This ties in with the way I work it. A front will last maybe 50%
    longer than a rear tyre but if the front is fucked when the rear is
    still good you tend to ignore it until both need replacing. Not a good
    Andy Bonwick, Apr 9, 2010
  11. Wicked Uncle Nigel

    Nige Guest

    I got 6k out of a front with 3 rears :)
    Nige, Apr 9, 2010
  12. Wicked Uncle Nigel

    ogden Guest

    That's a funny looking bike tyre, particularly for a front.

    From the MOT manual for bikes, grounds for failure include:

    "The depth of tread is not at least Imm throughout a continuous
    circumferential band measuring at least three quarters of the breadth of
    the tread"

    But since you're now talking about car tyres, the grounds for failure
    for a car include:

    "The grooves of the tread pattern are not at least 1.6mm throughout a
    continuous band comprising 1) the central three-quarters of the breadth
    of tread, and 2) round the entire outer circumference of the tyre.
    Note: Each side of the central band of the tyre can be devoid of tread
    (ie. ?bald?) and still meet the pass standard although in practice such
    tyre wear is unlikely to occur. See diagram below"
    ogden, Apr 9, 2010
  13. Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, ogden

    The GTR seems to do roughly 1.5 front tyres to 1 rear.
    Wicked Uncle Nigel, Apr 9, 2010
  14. Wicked Uncle Nigel

    ogden Guest

    I'm sure there are a number of reasons I get less life from a rear than
    you, not least the ripsnorting motor and my prolific wheelying.
    ogden, Apr 9, 2010
  15. I already was, but I hadn't realised that WUN wasn't, IYSWIM.
    So, my point that, the outer edge can be near as bald as it gets, as
    long as the actual tread pattern (which is the bit with wear
    indicators), was about right then.

    doetnietcomputeren, Apr 9, 2010
  16. My technique was to go along to a UKRM French Run, and wait for
    someone to say "fucking hell, you ****, you desperately need new
    vulgarandmischevious, Apr 9, 2010
  17. Wicked Uncle Nigel

    Andy Bonwick Guest

    I hope you're very happy.
    Andy Bonwick, Apr 9, 2010
  18. Wicked Uncle Nigel

    ogden Guest

    If you ignore "and 2) round the entire outer circumference of the tyre",
    Sounds pretty scientific to me.
    ogden, Apr 9, 2010
  19. Wicked Uncle Nigel

    Thomas Guest

    Called "cupping" around here. Some is normal, but low tire pressure
    exacerbates it.
    I could care less what's legal. I change tires when I don't feel safe
    on them. Or when I'm traveling and know it'll be a while before I can
    get a new tire. If there is any part of the tire where the tread has
    disappeared, it's time to change, but I usually ride past where the
    wear bars say. I was very surprised once to see a tire had worn to the
    cords in one area, but had plenty of tread on the rest of the tire. I
    spin tires all the way round now when checking.
    Thomas, Apr 9, 2010
  20. Wicked Uncle Nigel

    Lozzo Guest

    ogden wrote:

    I tend to sell the bike before it needs tyres and buy something
    Lozzo, Apr 10, 2010
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