Tyres II

Remind me, is it better to have softer rubber on the front than the
back, and never the other way around, yes?

Got a plan for tomorrow to get a new front qualifier II for the 10R,
and at the same time cascade the half worn one down onto the ZRX to
replace the absolutely knackered front azaro. I know mixing tyres
isn't the cleverest thing to do, but given the ZRX is a stable old bus
a sticky front should be good for the rest of the year, I'd have
thought.

Opinions?

 

Using the patented Mavis Beacon "Hunt&Peck" Technique, ginge

The way you ride it will make no difference.

What? WHAT? You asked!

--
Wicked Uncle Nigel - "He's hopeless, but he's honest"

I have already made the greatest contribution to the fight against climate
change that I can make: I have decided not to breed. Now quit bugging me and
go and talk to the Catholics.

 

Should've emailed TOG. He's the expert...

 

It has to be better than whatever you were riding on back from Chimay.

 

Christ yes, I had no confidence in that front once the roads got damp.

Think I'll give it a try. It's not going to cost much to get it fitted
to the loose wheel if I strap it on the pillion seat and take it with
me.

 

I've always understood this to be the case, but particularly so in
cars where a rear-wheel skid is easier to control than a front-wheel
skid.

On a bike it doesn't seem quite so obvious to me. Whilst I can see
that you may have more control of a bike if the rear wheel loses grip
momentarily as compared to the front wheel, a front wheel giving way
will ultimately result in a low-side whereas with losing a rear wheel
you can end up with a high-side. The former (i.e. harder front tyre)
is, I imagine, less likely to do you damage.

Having hypothesised I now look forward to SWK giving you the right
answer.

 

I had zero confidence in those Corsa 3s (have I mentinoed yet how much I
hated them) towards the end, especially after having the front end tuck
under. Whereas these Road 2s, hell, I'd marry them. And their sister.

Why not take the wheels off the 10R as well and put them all in the car?

 

If this is an economy thing, as in you've already helped to kick start
the economy and now the bailiffs are kicking down your door to reclaim
their 40" flat screen TV, then yes, it's a good plan.

 

You're looking at minimising the damage after the horse has bolted, so
to speak. I'd rather not have the horse bolt in the first place.

The only time the front really takes any load is under braking, whereas
the rear takes a hammering every time you open the throttle. So you want
a soft front and hard rear. And, as you say, the rear is generally easy
to recover when it lets go but when the front goes you're pretty much
fucked. So you want a soft front and a hard rear.

In short, you want a soft front and a hard rear.

 

I'll probably put those on the ZRX next time out, but there's a rear
azaro to kill off first - they don't have the 190/55 size the 10r uses
in less than a pilot power it seems.

I've only got one (borrowed) front paddock stand, and it doesn't fit
the 10R forks, plus my feeble allen key doesn't want to shift the
calliper bolts, so I'll let sonmeone else loosen it all first time
out. It'll be easy enough to strap the wheel to the pillon seat, I
reckon.

 

It's more a case of wanting to put the best rubber on the 10R, whilst
the workhorse ZRX just needs a new tyre good enough for a bit of
commuting and nipping to the shops on.. it's either going to get the
hand down or wait until next month's pay packet, as this months is
going on a europe trip..

 

Don't you believe it. Basic fizzix, innit: you need the centre of the
loas supported, or it'll feel 'orrible - even if it doesn't fall off
it'll feel like it's going to. Problem is that by the time you've
installed a rider there isn't enough length in the average pillion perch
to take half a wheel (anna bit for comfort).

Trust me, it's a **** sight easier to lob it in the boot of a handy car
than it is to fit it on a pillion, let alone actually strap it down
securely. The exception is if you have a Gold Wing or similar, obv.

 

Hmm, I'll test it tomorrow but my planned approach is as follows:

Strap under pillion pad and round centre of wheel/brake disc bit, with
one disc resting on pillion pad.

Bungee from right pillion peg, looped round spoke 1, bungee from left
pillion peg looped round spoke 2, Rokstrap round spoke 3 and looped
under mudguard.

Can't see it moving much at all like that.

alternatively I'll say **** it and just get the new tyre only.

 

Welcome, Brother.

You might find that even in a front end lock up they remain amazingly
controllable

 

Granted, it won't be able to move far. My point remains - how are you
going to fit your little ginger self on there as well?

I'd still suggest "**** it, I'll sling it in the boot of the car" is a
fucksight simpler.

 

Which is exactly what I'll be doing in about an hour's time when I have
new tyres fitted to the Versys. I cba with fucking around with bungees
etc trying to get two tyres strapped onto a bike with no rack.

 

Aren't you changing both tyres on the 10R before you go? You'll have
done something approaching 3k miles by the time you get home so unless
the existing tyre is almost 'as new' you'll be riding on canvas at the
end.

Getting back to your original question: sell the Azaro and put the
money towards a pair of decent tyres. You'll be mixing a tyre that's
been part worn on a sports bike with a brand new tyre and my suspicion
is that you'll get something will want to shake the front wheel every
time you cross white lines under power.

 

The rear is maybe 100 miles old, had I not been going to europe I'd
have got another 1500 out of the front easily.. I just don't reckon
it'll make the whole trip.

they'll both be part worn as the rear azaro is about half worn, same
as the front qualifier I'd be moving across, but fair comment.

 

'cept I don't have 2 front paddock stands to take both fronts off, and
the tyre place I use is 20 miles away, which is a faff.

 

You're not doing yourself any favours, you know.