Who was it bought a Ural? Here's some stuff came through euromoto, although it's about older bikes, how much change might there be... ============ Points gap needs to be 0.4 to 0.6mm, plug gap is 0.6mm The flywheel mark on mine is firing point at tickover not TDC but it might not be the same on others. The only thing I'd suggest here is the old stick down the plug hole trick to find TDC Valve adjustment on my urals I do thus: Set engine so inlet valve just closing then set exhaust tappet at 0.05 to 0.07mm Set engine so exhaust valve just opening then set inlet tappet at 0.05 to 0.07mm This means the valve being set will be well away from the cam ramp. 0.02mm is a bit tight Accepted wisdom from the ural fraternity is bin the old K301 carbs as descibed here. Apparently, Yam 250 Mikunis work well and can be fitted using the Mikuni rubber flanges. I did have the jetting somewhere. My bikes have K68 carbs or Jikovs which compare OK with modern western carbs. On early urals, the carb bolts are in the vertical plane so fitting alternatives like Amals need an adapter plate. Urals have roller bearing big ends so it's a low pressure oil system. There should always be a good few mls of oil in the rocker covers. These are good links to try for more advice: [URL]http://www.f2motorcycles.ltd.uk[/URL] - the owner, Dave Angel will know very much more than me. [URL]http://www.cossackmotorcycles.com/[/URL] is a site done by Dave to help identify different Russian bike models and their various parts. [URL]http://www.cossackownersclub.co.uk/[/URL] is what it says on the tin [URL="http://www.russianiron.com"]www.russianiron.com[/URL] has a good set of technical forums [URL]http://www.russianmotorcycles.co.uk/all_ural_manuals/all_ural_manuals.htm[/URL] ========== Zebee
