Voltage Regulator adivce needed

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Kalico, May 23, 2004.

  1. Kalico

    Kalico Guest

    I suspect I have a knackered voltage regulator on my CBR1100XX
    (Blackbird).

    I have checked the AC voltages coming from the alternator and they
    rise when the engince is revved. However, the voltage across the
    battery does not change at all when revved. In fact, it decreases
    slightly.

    Can anyone who has a meter and a kind heart tell me by how much their
    voltage rises when the engine is revved? Or is the regualtor so
    accurate that it keeps exaclty 12 volts?

    My past experience has been that the voltage rises slightly and
    hovvers around the 14V mark, thereby charging the battery.

    There are scorch marks on the reg connector so I will need to try to
    buy another connector as well as a regulator. First, does anyone know
    best way to connect the new connector. Second, does anyone know a
    good place to source the bits? I suspect a new one will mean
    re-mortgaging my house, so scrap would be fine.

    Thanks to all for any advice.
    Rob
     
    Kalico, May 23, 2004
    #1
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  2. Kalico

    Kalico Guest

    Thanks for that - great site for Honda parts.
     
    Kalico, May 23, 2004
    #2
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  3. Kalico

    PDannyD Guest

    A sure sign of a fucked regulator.
    Nominal voltage output should be around 14.4 at rev without any heavy
    current loads (eg: lights, fans, heated grips)
     
    PDannyD, May 23, 2004
    #3
  4. Kalico

    Kalico Guest

    Excellent - thanks for the confirmation.

    Now I just need to source another one, preferably from a breakers.

    Rob
     
    Kalico, May 23, 2004
    #4
  5. Kalico wrote
    A potentially foolish economy, given the state of your current one.
     
    steve auvache, May 23, 2004
    #5
  6. Kalico

    Mark Olson Guest

    Dunno if the Blackbird reg/rect is similar, but the VFR reg/rect is known
    for overheating due to insufficient airflow. Folks have reported using a
    little 12V CPU fan on them (switched on with the ignition, obviously), or
    by remounting it in a spot with better airflow.

    If the connector is wire-to-wire rather than wire-to-terminals-on-the-R/R,
    you might consider eliminating the connector altogether. Chop it off,
    solder the wires together and cover with shrink tubing. This fix has been
    recommended for another Honda plagued with overheating connectors, the
    84-86 GL1200.

    In any case it is a good idea to get all connectors spotlessly clean and
    preserve that cleanliness by liberal application of dielectric grease to
    prevent corrosion.
     
    Mark Olson, May 23, 2004
    #6
  7. Kalico

    Kalico Guest

    Might be missing something, but why?

    Rob
     
    Kalico, May 23, 2004
    #7
  8. Kalico

    Kalico Guest

    Certainly are signs of over heating. A thoroughly burnt connector (on
    one of the wires from the alternator at least) is a bit of a giveaway.

    I have seend one new replacement that looks a lot more up to the job
    of dissipating the heat than the OE kit. It has cooling fins etc like
    any heat sink but the OE part has nothing.

    Fortunately, the alternator still seems to be kicking out the voltage
    so a new R/R might just solve the problem.

    Thanks for the advice. I might re-locate the thing for better airflow
    in the future.

    Rob
     
    Kalico, May 23, 2004
    #8
  9. Kalico wrote
    Apart from the electrifying puns? Yours is second hand.
     
    steve auvache, May 23, 2004
    #9
  10. Kalico

    mb Guest

    [snip]
    Second, does anyone know a

    Cheaper than an OEM (probly):
    http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/
     
    mb, May 23, 2004
    #10
  11. Kalico

    Kalico Guest

    Yes Sir! Please forgive me ignorance of such things ;o)

    CBR 1100 XX
    GSX-R 750 WN
    BONY#something
    "Failure isn't falling down,
    it's staying down"

    Replace 'spam' with 'org' to reply
     
    Kalico, May 24, 2004
    #11
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