Warped Disks.

Discussion in 'UK Motorcycles' started by Krusty, Mar 27, 2011.

  1. Krusty

    Krusty Guest

    If you stick a car brake disk on a flat surface, & by pressing down on
    one side can get a 0.013mm feeler guage under t'other side, is it
    warped enough to need replacing?

    I've replaced the (completely fucked) wheel bearing on that corner, &
    rubuit the calliper, but there's a rubbing sound & the disk's getting
    much hotter than t'other side. I'm wondering if the seizing wheel
    bearing caused the hub to get hot enough to warp the disk.
     
    Krusty, Mar 27, 2011
    #1
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  2. Krusty

    Krusty Guest

    Not sure what the runout spec is but I'm pretty sure it'll be more than
    that.
    Could be. The piston seemed to move ok but the sliding half was very
    stiff.
     
    Krusty, Mar 27, 2011
    #2
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  3. Krusty

    Pete Fisher Guest

    There isn't a heat shield that could be making slight contact is there?
    I had that on the Mazda 6 after the front end work. Took it back and it
    was "adjusted". That created a rubbing sound, but I never checked the
    disk temperature.


    --
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Pete Fisher at Home: |
    | Aprilia Shiver Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
    | Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
     
    Pete Fisher, Mar 27, 2011
    #3
  4. Surely there's a 'run out' specification for the disk that could be used
    here?
    Or maybe a sticky caliper?
     
    stephen.packer, Mar 27, 2011
    #4
  5. Ah! I had a Citroen BX like that. It would eat a set of pads on one
    wheel in about a month (2k miles or so). More to the point it would eat
    one pad because the slider wasn't sliding properly and it was easier to
    put half of a six-quid set of pads in than fix the issue.

    Fixed it eventually.
     
    stephen.packer, Mar 27, 2011
    #5
  6. Krusty

    Krusty Guest

    No, checked that.
     
    Krusty, Mar 27, 2011
    #6
  7. Krusty

    Andy Bonwick Guest

    I'd have said not, but f you can get a 0.013" feeler under it then
    it's knackered.
    Swap discs and see if the disc gets hot when it's running in a
    different caliper.
     
    Andy Bonwick, Mar 27, 2011
    #7
  8. Krusty

    Colin Irvine Guest

    Except it's only 0.5 thou.
     
    Colin Irvine, Mar 27, 2011
    #8
  9. Krusty

    Colin Irvine Guest

    Bad form excused by a quick "doh".
     
    Colin Irvine, Mar 27, 2011
    #9
  10. Krusty

    Andy Bonwick Guest

    You've got a 0.0005" feeler? My guess is that he'd either misplaced the
    decimal point and meant 0.13mm or it was really warped and he'd got a
    0.013" feeler under it. It he really has only managed to find half a
    thou of distortion then I'll be very surprised.
     
    Andy Bonwick, Mar 27, 2011
    #10
  11. I'd be very surprised if it could generate enough heat to warp the disc,
    or even rub the disc unevenly.
     
    PipL alter ego, Mar 27, 2011
    #11
  12. That'd be my first port of call.
    And that would be my second.
     
    PipL alter ego, Mar 27, 2011
    #12
  13. So are you getting any of the following:

    juddery brakes;
    Steering pulling to one side;
    pulsing brake pedal;
    uneven tyre wear on that wheel?

    If not and the disc's just getting abnormally warm then make sure the
    caliper's free.

    Was the bearing itself running hot, though? If the wheel was wobbling in
    a regular pattern then maybe the pads were rubbing intermittently on the
    disc. I dunno if this is also a possibility, but as an alternative
    theory, maybe a binding brake caused the entire hub to run hot and that
    caused the bearing failure.
     
    PipL alter ego, Mar 27, 2011
    #13
  14. Krusty

    Pete Fisher Guest

    No - but they do make a rubbing noise if they are making contact.
    --
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
    | Pete Fisher at Home: |
    | Aprilia Shiver Yamaha WR250Z/Supermoto "Old Gimmer's Hillclimber" |
    | Gilera GFR * 2 Moto Morini 2C/375 |
    +-------------------------------------------------------------------+
     
    Pete Fisher, Mar 27, 2011
    #14
  15. Krusty

    Krusty Guest

    Not done enough miles to tell yet.
    It is. As I said, I rebuilt it. Well I actually said I 'rubuit' it,
    cos I'm a mong.
    The old one was judging by the state of it, & the tortured screeching
    noise.
    That had occured to me, but the brake wasn't sticking enough to be
    noticeable so it seems unlikely.
     
    Krusty, Mar 27, 2011
    #15
  16. Krusty

    Krusty Guest

    That's actually a damn good idea.
     
    Krusty, Mar 27, 2011
    #16
  17. Krusty

    Krusty Guest

    You've made me go & check now you git. And you're right - kinda.
    Previously unused 'kinked' guages I bought for the somewhat tricky
    Outlander inlet valves, & they've got both metric & imperial sizes
    stamped on, which I hadn't noticed. It's 0.33mm (0.013 in old money).
     
    Krusty, Mar 27, 2011
    #17
  18. Krusty

    Andy Bonwick Guest

    Try swapping discs but I'd say that it's new disc time because that
    amount of distortion is going to cause problems.

    If you actually want to get a true measurement you need to get three
    old roller bearings, balance it on them then shim the low one to find
    the distortion. Repeat in a couple of different places and you've got
    it.
     
    Andy Bonwick, Mar 27, 2011
    #18
  19. Krusty

    Dentist Guest

    It's buggered, as may also be the case with the hub.
    Not easy to check unless you can get a dial gauge on the disk mounting
    flange.
    I'd try a new disk[1], and hope for the best.

    [1]probably sold in pairs.
     
    Dentist, Mar 27, 2011
    #19
  20. Krusty

    Krusty Guest

    I've come to that conclusion too, especially as they're only 55 quid
    for a pair. New disks on the way.
     
    Krusty, Mar 27, 2011
    #20
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