Well I have been 500 miles...

Yep, having ridden both I'd say they're slightly different beasts. The
new one seems a lot less peaky but no less powerful. They've just moved
the power down the rev range a bit without all that "tuning for torque"
nonsense. The low end fueling feels as smooth as carbs would, not
snatchy at all, so obviously they've learnt some lessons with FI. The
bike's a bit less twitchy overall as they've calmed the geometry down
slightly and made it less wheelie prone... apparently if you put the
190/50 rubber on it becomes a lot more like the previous version though,
so maybe the new tyre choice is a big part of it.

Imagine injjecting a shot of the old 7R into the previous 10, and you'd
not be far off. Nimble, but stable if that makes sense. It's obvious
it'll bite if provoked mind, so that's a new learning curve to explore.

 

I honestly don't think there's that much in it that most riders would
notice. Certainly the power is the same.

I'm finding it quite an easy bike to ride as well, it's more stable
than the GSXR and the FI is better so it's better around town at low
speed.

 

To be honest ginge, that's all that counts and I am pleased you're enjoying
it. Very few people here can ride a 10R to it's full potential, I cannot,
especially on the road. Go for it man and enjoy it ignore what people tell
you. It was your decision.

 

This is why I fitted a TRE and other bits. It's worked a treat.

 

Mate of mine in Swindon has an 06. We tested his bike back to back with
my 05. The differences where subtle to say the least. His has an Ohlins
and mine a Penske. You would see more difference between types of tyres.
The later speedo is better than the 05 but it's ugly compared to the 05.
Speed is about the same. Ridiculous. Both have TRE/PCIII race pipes.

I think I get more down low end. But I have yet to rolling road it.

The biggest difference was made due to the Penske shock. You can at
least go at a fast pace without being punted out of the seat on a bump.
The standard shock is the worst I've ever had on a bike. It has much
less tendency to head shake now. I can actually ride it on the roads I
want to ride on instead of having to find roads suitable for it. Which
is nice.

 

I told them both almost the same idea for running in bikes but they're
a bit more precious about bikes than I am.

 

On Fri, 06 Apr 2007 19:33:14 +0100, eric the brave

snip>

I bitched about the original suspension settings on mine but a bit of
research then a day of trial and error has made it handle as well as
any other bike I've ridden.

 

Andy Bonwick says...

I'm glad it handles as well as a Bandit 1200 on AV45/46STs. It must be a
huge comfort to know you have that high a level of handling for such a
bargain price...shame about the Jewish Racing Gold colour though.

--
Lozzo
Triumph Daytona 955i SE (Black with added black bits)
Suzuki Bandit 600S (Green with added shit bits)
Yamaha SR250 Delusion (It's "Special")
I ride way too fast to worry about cholestorol.

 

Out of interest, what did you change?

I'd guess weight wise you're not all that far from my weight.

 

IIRC the 2004 has a much harder spring on the shock.

 

Memories of a certain gaffer-taped k1 gixxer...

--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (brucedotrogers a.t rochedotcom)
\`\ | /`/ GSX-R1000K3 (slightly broken, currently missing)
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`

 

My bike is set up as below:

Front rebound: 2 clicks out from fully in
Front compression: 7 clicks out from fully in
Front preload: Back it off by half a line from standard

Rear rebound: 2 full turns out from fully in
Rear compression: 5.5 turns out from fully in.
Rear preload: As standard but if I had the correct 'c' spanner I'd
take 5mm
off.

PB settings are slightly different:

Front rebound: 2 clicks out from fully in
Front compression: 7 clicks out from fully in
Rear rebound: 1 1/4 turns out from fully in
Rear compression: 4 turns out from fully in

Your bike has a different rear shock to mine but Kawasaki will have
still set it up the same so going down the same route might help if
you're not happy with it.

Always remember that a) I'm shit with suspension settings and b) I
might have a slightly different cornering style to you.

 

Apart from yourself of course. You have the same attitude to cosmetic
damage as I do when it comes to bikes.

 

Cheers. I'll have to have a look how that lot compares with factory,
and then have a play.

I'm fairly happy with the front, but the back just feels too solid and
tight to me, I've got used to riding the ZRX with the front end set up
quite tight and the back end quite loose, and I'm still not used to
being thrown out of the seat on rough roads. That's really what I need
to sort.

As a starter I think I'll get powersports to take 3mm out of the rear
preload when it's in for it's 1st service on Friday, I've not got the
right c-spanners either.

B is for certain. But anything that involves less rear preload might be
a good place to start.

 

I heartily agree with you both on this - if it still works, why
replace the scratched bits?

--
_______
..'_/_|_\_'. Ace (brucedotrogers a.t rochedotcom)
\`\ | /`/ GSX-R1000K3 (slightly broken, currently missing)
`\\ | //' BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
`\|/`
`

 

I might have to fix the cracked plastics on mine when I eventually
want to sell it because Adie hates riding it. The only positive side
is that I can't see me selling it, I'll probably be more inclined to
keep it and get something to compliment it iyswim.